Identifying my RC10

[JimClark]

While looking at parts for my restoration I am trying to figure out the different model numbers. I know mine is a B stamp but in lookign for parts I see there are several different B's? I have seen parts for a B3 and B6 what's the difference and how do I tell which I have? Box pic below.

[Basher67]

You're confusing the stamp letter with the actual model. All gold pans are "B1". Parts for these will just be listed as RC10 or vintage RC10, etc. "A" or "B" stamps on the pan just refer to the type of transmission it came with, holes that were factory drilled for said trans and gives a clue to the age of the car. The model # on the side of the box refers to the "trim package" your RC10 came with----with or without esc, champion edition, graphite edition and so on. B2's, B3's and so on are different buggys that were produced later through the evolution of AE 2wd buggys.
Yours appears to be a "B" stamp (which means it came with a stealth transmission) RC10 Championship Edition.
The easiest way to find the correct parts for your car is to look at the manual and find the part # you need and find it that way. If you don't have the original manual, they are readily available online in PDF form.

[Bakauata]

I think you mentioned in your presentation thread that you would like to upgrade to bearings on your car. That would be a wise move.
But figuring out what bearings to buy isn't so easy.
I just checked on the Avid web site (https://www.avidrc.com/product/m/products/59/Team-Associated-Vehicles.html) and they don't carry a complete replacement kit for the CE.
You may have to buy each bearing individually.
I think I made a list of what was needed for my CE a while back, but that has a six gear transmission in it.
I'll check my notes and get back to you.

[JimClark]

I have a complete set of bearings, someone on facebook pointed me tot he correct set to buy.

[Bakauata]

OK. One problem less.

[RC10resto]

Well, without a lot of info it doesn't look like you need any parts (are the Battery Cups in the box?).

Make sure everything is smooth and free while you replace the Bushings. Service items will be rebuilding the shocks (if they leak) fresh oil in and see how they feel. Next will be the Trans, does the Diff have smooth action or is it "gritty". The car looks to have low run time so you probably just need to tune things up a bit

Good luck and enjoy the refresh.

[JimClark]

Not much runtime we never raced. I have one side of the battery box will probably look for another so I can put the battery side to side like it was.

[JimClark]

Thank you very much for the info

[Ronbo]

Jim, check the 25 years of the RC10 at the top of this forum section. You can spot the differences with the parts and model types by that guide. Its helped me, and I raced during the time frame 86-95 and I learned a lot.
Ron

[Pepito]

Are you looking to do a complete resto or a runner? That will make a big difference in what you need/want to do with the Buggy.

For a runner, you would only really want one battery cup. It should be locate the length of the chassis with one end of the battery going into the Rear bulkhead pocket and the other being held by the battery box.
There were two different CE editions, the 6 gear tranny (A stamp) and the Stealth Tranny (B Stamp). You have the later CE stealth tranny B stamp that was released in 1992.
Even with the stealth tranny, these buggies still came with a mechanical speed control. You have a Futaba ESC, an upgrade to the original speed controller - hence why you only really need one battery cup.
The two battery cups were used when you had the mechanical speed controller because the servo went into the rear bulkhead pocket.

If you are looking to restore your RC10, that's a whole other animal and list.

Let us know if that is the direction you are looking to go.
Good luck!

[aakoskin]

For a runner, you would only really want one battery cup. It should be locate the length of the chassis with one end of the battery going into the Rear bulkhead pocket and the other being held by the battery box.
[...]
The two battery cups were used when you had the mechanical speed controller because the servo went into the rear bulkhead pocket.

In my local club, I've noticed that most of the "pro" vintage RC10 racers mount the battery sideways (with a shorty pack). Apparently that gives better balance than with inline.

[JimClark]

I wanted to take it apart and clean and lube it and add a new body and run it, (not on dirt) and not race it.

Are you looking to do a complete resto or a runner? That will make a big difference in what you need/want to do with the Buggy.

For a runner, you would only really want one battery cup. It should be locate the length of the chassis with one end of the battery going into the Rear bulkhead pocket and the other being held by the battery box.
There were two different CE editions, the 6 gear tranny (A stamp) and the Stealth Tranny (B Stamp). You have the later CE stealth tranny B stamp that was released in 1992.
Even with the stealth tranny, these buggies still came with a mechanical speed control. You have a Futaba ESC, an upgrade to the original speed controller - hence why you only really need one battery cup.
The two battery cups were used when you had the mechanical speed controller because the servo went into the rear bulkhead pocket.

If you are looking to restore your RC10, that's a whole other animal and list.

Let us know if that is the direction you are looking to go.
Good luck!

[JimClark]

Are those old ESC's worth anything? I think a brand new unsued one is in the box

[Pepito]

Are those old ESC's worth anything? I think a brand new unsued one is in the box

If you are going to run it, ditch the old ESC, RX and Transmitter an opt for new ones. They are much more efficient. Also, go with a 2S Lipo battery for the buggy. The run time will last at least twice as long as any other NiCad or NiMh and probably be less expensive to keep and maintain in the long run.
To answer your question about "worth", the short answer is - it depends.
Politically and policy around this forum, is you don't ask that type of question and we are not supposed to answer it.
Enter the model number on eBay and search the ESC "SOLD" category with the appropriate condition and that is usually a good gauge as to its worth.

Hope all that helps ya!

[JimClark]

Thanks much for the help

Are those old ESC's worth anything? I think a brand new unsued one is in the box

If you are going to run it, ditch the old ESC, RX and Transmitter an opt for new ones. They are much more efficient. Also, go with a 2S Lipo battery for the buggy. The run time will last at least twice as long as any other NiCad or NiMh and probably be less expensive to keep and maintain in the long run.
To answer your question about "worth", the short answer is - it depends.
Politically and policy around this forum, is you don't ask that type of question and we are not supposed to answer it.
Enter the model number on eBay and search the ESC "SOLD" category with the appropriate condition and that is usually a good gauge as to its worth.

Hope all that helps ya!