Newbie with Race Motor and AE RC10

[JTSpeedDemon]

Cool. I ordered 2 3oz containers of the motor oil for $6 on Ebay. Amazon tried to charge me rip off $6 for shipping!
Don't want to go to the track and have something seize up.
Now I just need to find the money for a body.

[JTSpeedDemon]

Ok, there's a guy on the go kart forum I'm on, and he's worried about the racing being hard on the suspension(which makes sense because the RC10 wasn't designed for some of the jumps at Indy RC). But to me, the only things to worry about are the a arms front and rear, and the spindle assembly up front. Should I be worried? Should I get an extra set of a arms? Or should I just say screw it and run it with different wheels and a body?

[XLR8]

It's been said before but worth mentioning again. Boiling the nylon parts will make them more pliable and less prone to breakage.
Actually, I've never broken an RC10 arm but I have broken front and rear arm mounts and steering blocks and castor blocks (probably more broken steering blocks than anything else). I'd recommend boiling those parts before heading to the track. Just my 2 cents.

[JTSpeedDemon]

Ok, if that's the case, I'll just boil all the nylon suspension components. Oh boy, lots of e clips are in my future....

[XLR8]

I guess it could be worse. AE supplies e-clips that are black oxide coated - relatively easy to grip. Kyosho, on the other hand, supplies e-clips that are either nickel or chrome plated - very hard to grip especially if you have any trace of oil on your hands. Kyosho e-clips absolutely drive me NUTS!!!

Unfortunately, with vintage RC's, e-clips are just a fact of life. We might as well learn to love 'em.

[JTSpeedDemon]

Oops.
I didn't think to ask the seller the dimensions of the front wheels and tires. They're WAY bigger than the originals and bigger than the rears! The pic kinda sums it up. I might be able to transfer the bushings(same bore), and drop the front end all the way to make it level, but it'll still look way goofy. Back to Ebay!
I'll still leave positive feedback since it's my fault, but now I know! ASK BEFORE YOU BUY!
The rears fit great! Can't wait to thrash 'em!

[GoMachV]

Those look like standard truck tires. What did the listing say?

[JTSpeedDemon]

It was listed as Rc10 wheels and tires.
The description said: "This auction is for a set of 2 wheels and tires for an RC10 J82 conversion from JConcepts. Please feel free to ask any questions about this auction. Buyer to pay shipping."
That bit about the J82 conversion must be important, right?
Ah well, there's two listings right now for the 3 piece style front RC10 wheels and tires. I'll try and nab those.
But to sum up my thoughts right now:

[GoMachV]

Yeah the j82 part was important haha. It was a 1/8 scale buggy conversion for a truck.

[JTSpeedDemon]

At this point, since my dad only has so many off days this month when he can take me to the track, I think I'm just going to get some beater front wheels and take it oval racing. That shouldn't be too hard on the suspension, and there's not too much chance of flipping or wrecking.
Now with the dirt circuit they have, those jumps look like they would butcher my car!

[JTSpeedDemon]

Found these within my budget: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Team-Associated-RC10-Buggy-Front-tires-rims-579/133230784671?hash=item1f052c709f:g:AH4AAOSwv7ldwjhn
About $18. By using proportions between my wheels and the pictures, assuming the bushings are the same size, it looks like these are about the same size or smaller. Anyone know the dimensions for the Associated #579 wheels?

[jwscab]

those in that listing are 2.1" front wheels and tires. You will be fine with those. Be aware in the future that they also made narrow truck wheels that are 2.2" and those actually have 4 screws holding them together. So as long as you see three screws, you are OK.

[JTSpeedDemon]

Just bought those wheels! Less than $20 shipped! Since its also a dish design, it won't be hard to tell which set is the bashing set!
Can't wait to take it oval racing!

[JTSpeedDemon]

Cool! Just measured 'em, and the rear beater wheels are standard 2.2"! Since they're the one piece glue on design, I had to break out the Super Glue to glue the tires down, since they were spinning on the wheels(VERY bad! ). Don't worry, I checked the Traxxas forum before I used superglue, I didn't want to cough up ~$10 for genuine tire glue.
Now I just gotta wait for the delayed front beater wheels......*toe tapping*

Is there any method to separate the tires from the wheels after they've been glued? Or are they just replaced as a set?

[XLR8]

Cool! Just measured 'em, and the rear beater wheels are standard 2.2"! Since they're the one piece glue on design, I had to break out the Super Glue to glue the tires down, since they were spinning on the wheels(VERY bad! ). Don't worry, I checked the Traxxas forum before I used superglue, I didn't want to cough up ~$10 for genuine tire glue.
Now I just gotta wait for the delayed front beater wheels......*toe tapping*

Is there any method to separate the tires from the wheels after they've been glued? Or are they just replaced as a set?

Acetone dissolves CA glue.
I place my wheels/tires on a small platform (a block of wood) in a plastic container with a lid and pour in a small amount of acetone (not enough to touch the tires) and leave them in the vapor for 24 hours. After 24 hours, the tire can be separated from the wheel. When you remove the wheel from the container, you'll need to work quickly because the CA will begin to set again once it's away from the acetone.