My RC10 (runner)

[R16]

My friend's Goldpan
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mgBfAdjIgT0

[R16]

Inside of the Goldpan

Tekin ESC is a weight. With a cheap 17.5t brushless motor and cheap ESC, the car is easy to handle.
I really like this car.

[XLR8]

Your post reminds me that while it can interesting to modify the old RC10, it's not necessary in order to have fun driving it; the car works very well without a need for correction.
I'd reckon that Roger and the guys at AE have spent a tremendous amount of R&D time to make the car work. The fact that roughly 35 years later, we can still enjoy collecting, building and racing the original RC10, this seems to confirm that they got it right.

[R16]

>XLR8
Thanks for your comment.

I and my friend totally agree with you. My friend said that he has more fun with the Goldpan (RC10CE) even though he drives his Worlds car within a few sec of the best lap here.

The weight distribution is almost same as my RC10 ver.2 with heavier ESC (and balance weight below the receiver).
Short wheel base position is used for the rear arm mount with Kyosho big bore from RB6.6.

[bluewormx]

Your post reminds me that while it can interesting to modify the old RC10, it's not necessary in order to have fun driving it; the car works very well without a need for correction.
I'd reckon that Roger and the guys at AE have spent a tremendous amount of R&D time to make the car work. The fact that roughly 35 years later, we can still enjoy collecting, building and racing the original RC10, this seems to confirm that they got it right.

I agree. Nevertheless getting modern electrics to work means playing around with weight distribution. An old nicad weighs over 300gr a modern LIPO about 200gr. Motors are probably lighter now also.

The tracks have also changed getting an RC10 over the jumps means you need more weight in the nose, about 40gr seems to work perfectly

[R16]

I would like to note some thoughts.

If a total weight of RC10 becomes less with modern electronics, the car becomes more rear biased (assuming a motor has the same weight). Then, you should move a battery forward.

If you use big bore shocks, it means that you already put a weight near the nose plate. Then, if you add extra weights on the nose plate, you might lose initial turn-in speed (less yawing).

I feel that the weight distribution may be similar for Ver2 and Ver3 (qualitative though, please see figure). Ver3 is twitchy possibly because weights are confined near the center (more yawing). For adjustment, you can slightly move a battery rearward, or add some weights on the nose plate or near ESC (depending on rear grip).

I feel that Ver2 can accept more situations without adjustments. On the carpet, the long wheel base position on rear arm mounts worked for me (Ver2 and Ver3 use the short wheel base position).

[R16]

<RC10 laydown ver.2>

Short wheel base version of the laydown mid-motor RC10.
NDS chassis + RC10 nose plate & front A arm + flipped rear arm = RC10 with the very short wheelbase.

It took me a while to stabilize this car on a sandy clay indoor track.
I think that "GT chassis + RC10 nose plate & front A arm + flipped rear arm" is better for stability.

[R16]

<Overview>

I wanted to make the laydown RC10 (ver. 1 as shown before) look like RC10 with stock arms and stock wheelbase.

The wheelbase of this car is about 4mm shorter than RC10 with the short wheelbase arm mount position because of flipped rear arms. With the center-confined weight, the car can easily become twitchy. Since I decided to use this car on a sandy and bumpy clay track, I needed enough rear grip and reduce pitching motions caused by bumps. Thus, I needed weights in rear and make weights widely distributed in the longitudinal direction (for reducing yawing response and pitching frequencies).

A steering servo needs to be placed in a transverse direction for installing a battery etc. I used B3 chassis as a reference. I connected two chassis with holes for steering bell crank and opened up two holes for mounting a steering servo.

Please also check this topic,
https://www.rc10talk.com/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=43278


<Front>
・Stock front A arm and caster block (30 degree) and RC10GT axle
・Stock ballstud with one thin shim + 2mm spacer below it on the steering block (try to reduce bump in)
・Add weight (10g) on the nose plate and right by the battery behind the steering servo (10g)
・Front bumper from Shapeway (rapid_rc)
・Extended front shock tower from FibreLyte
・B4 big bore front shock, green V1 big bore spring, 1.6 piston, #32.5 oil
・Shock position: Outside hole on the arm and middle on the tower
・Shock tower, nose tube and suspension mounts are tightened with hex nuts
・RC10GT steering bellcrank and B3 steering bellcrank for connecting servo horn.
・Nose tube on the right side was cut down.

[R16]

<Middle>

・From front to rear: 10g weight. radio receiver, and ESC
・For the battery holder, button screw is used on ESC side and cap screw on other side
・The battery cup is fixed with one screw (cap screw side) and double-sided tape
・B6 battery holder nut (ASC91731) and RC10 steering servo holder shown by red arrows are also used to fix a short Lipo battery
・Two linkage from the transmission. Blue body posts from a local hobby shop are used
・Motor cooler is also used to hold the battery

[R16]

<Rear>

・Modified RC10GT shock tower from Xtreme Racing
http://www.xtremercracing.com/Products/ASSOCIATED_RC10-GT_REAR_CARBON_FIBER_SHOCK_MOUNT/10231
・B6 wing mount (the second hole from bottom on the tower is attached to the bottom hole of the wind mount and add one hole for the upper hole of the wing mount)
・B4 big bore rear shock, Kyosho X-gear big bore spring Pink, 1.7 piston, #30 oil
・the upper inside hole on the shock tower and outside hole on the arm are used for mounting the rear big bore shocks
・GPM transmission brace
https://www.rc10talk.com/viewtopic.php?f=36&t=39699&start=15
・Black body post on the transmission brace with one washer
・One washer for each screw hole below the transmission case and chassis brace.
・B4 top shaft with V2 slipper (84 spar gear)
・Upper camber link is attached to the inner upper hole of the bulk head and center hole of the rear hub carrier.

・Dynotech motor mount with three blue spacers (3mm) to move the motor inward

・AE stock rear arm (flipped).
・B4 rear hub (AS#9730), B4 blue rear axle wheel spacer and SC10 rear hex adapter
・To avoid rubbing the camber link against shock spring, short ball stud for the rear hub and long ball stud on the bulk head are used to attach the camber link, and B4 shock ball end with 1mm spacer between the rear arm and shock ball end
・Yokomo 62mm length CVA shaft and Yokomo coupler with Kyosho axle pin (2x11mm, #92051)
https://www.rc10talk.com/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=34582&start=45

・Rear bumper is RC10GT front bumper (AS#7774) where TC4 block carrier bushing (AS#3874) and hex nut are used to attach to the chassis
・60g weight! on the rear bumper

<Other things>
・Tire is important
・I reduced the steering servo speed and did other adjustments via the transmitter because the car is too quick.
・RC10GT transmission mount and rear shock tower need to be modified (shown as <Misc.> in the second post from the last in page 3)
・Please check this topic too
https://www.rc10talk.com/viewtopic.php?f=36&t=43125&sid=21ad88aed863c071aa90724266cf0c90

[R16]

<RC10 B1.5 ver.2 (SWB)>

Next car is B1.5 with a short wheelbase as explained by Scr8p in
https://www.rc10talk.com/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=16535&sid=e5c394c52fe3847000d0910fd6176780
and
https://www.rc10talk.com/viewtopic.php?t=10842&start=210

Weight distribution

[R16]

Video of RC10 B1.5 ver.2 (SWB)
https://youtu.be/qGF8ofSrigA

Next is how to built it and wheelbase comparison

[Lonestar]

Weight distribution
RC10B1.5SWB_2.jpg

spot on!!!

[Lonestar]

Video of RC10 B1.5 ver.2 (SWB)
https://youtu.be/57ULqb0HO98

Next is how to built it and wheelbase comparison

Video unavailable
This video has been removed by the user


?!?!?!

[R16]

I replaced the first video to the shorter one. My apology for confusion.