My RC10 (runner)

[scr8p]

It's cool to see a B1.5 hitting the track. I ran one of mine at the 2015 Vonats and was pretty happy with it. If I had more time to mess with it i probably could've made it made better. But, it's a once and done car.

But, I do have a runner on the bench that needs a couple things before it's ready to hit the track. That car is gonna be my test mule.

[R16]

It's cool to see a B1.5 hitting the track. I ran one of mine at the 2015 Vonats and was pretty happy with it. If I had more time to mess with it i probably could've made it made better. But, it's a once and done car.

But, I do have a runner on the bench that needs a couple things before it's ready to hit the track. That car is gonna be my test mule.

Thanks for your comment. Since I did not cut a chassis as you did on your original B1.5,
my B1.5 is heavier and could run well with modern electronics (especially light weight Lipo battery), I think.
However, since my method is simple, I hope that someone will build B1.5 and use it for racing.

<RC10Mid flipped stealth transmission>

The modification is also easy for RC10Mid. Two chassis are bolted together via four arm mount holes but in the opposite direction as shown in the picture. Then, six holes are opened up for the stealth transmission and rear bulkhead with the gold pan as the reference.

[R16]

The last car is a laydown mid-motor RC10.

The video shows the first day at a carpet track.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JWc1NQyA83o

My friend drove the car and I took the video. I should have driven my car by myself (this is my mistake... I had to edit videos and repair the car with tears). Anyway, it will take some time to adjust this car and I need to practice. I start thinking to take part in a stock race there.

<Introduction>
Before showing the build, I would like to note several random things.
・First of all, many people have done this conversion (mainly trucks). I have studied their methods via RC10talk.com and other sites. I appreciate their efforts and ideas. I spent some time to build a buggy.
・This car is an electric conversion of Nitro DS but you can build the same car with RC10GT black chassis. Therefore, we can revive old AE 1/10 scale fuel cars to run with modern cars
・I chose WOIN style for stability (using Dynotech arms with the 10T/T2 nose plate with one extra hole) but you can use RC10 buggy nose plate (not world's style for GT chassis). You can also use RC10 buggy rear bulkhead if you can make the transmission brace. There would be many possibilities (performance and style) for this conversion
・The rear shock position is not in front of the rear arm. This is B5M or Centro (or B6D) style. As far as I know, that of B6 is in front of the rear arm and it would result in the better cornering performance.

[XLR8]

Thanks for the video. Gosh, that looks fun. Anyway, the car seems plenty quick and really flys nicely. Well done!

[R16]

Thanks for the video. Gosh, that looks fun. Anyway, the car seems plenty quick and really flys nicely. Well done!

Thank you very much! It was a fun day. Masami was there and I drove the car next to him.
I will post how to build the car (and hopefully settings) when I can (busy with work now..)

[XLR8]

Wait a minute, you were at a race and competed along side the great Masami Hirosaka?

Holy moly .....

We're not worthy.... We're not worthy...

[Lonestar]

Did Masami try the car?!? That'd be awesome!!!

[R16]

He was there to test new YZ-4. He showed us how to jump for fun.
https://youtu.be/hzBIS8ah4j8
I and my friend are hoping to drive vintage RC10s with his 4wd next time.

[Lonestar]

He was there to test new YZ-4. He showed us how to jump for fun.
https://youtu.be/hzBIS8ah4j8
I and my friend are hoping to drive vintage RC10s with his 4wd next time.

That's freaking bonkers

[R16]

<Nitro DS and GT chasses and 10T nose plates>

There is one notable difference between NDS and GT chasses, that is length. The relation between two chasses is similar to that between 10T and T2.

To achieve the same wheel base for 10T and T2, you need to use the lower holes of the nose plate for 10T and upper holes for T2 as shown in above photo (left is B1.5=T2 and right is 10T). As a result, the steering system is different for 10T and T2. Here, the upper holes are shown by yellow squares and lower holes are shown by magenta squares in below photo.

Because of this difference, the nose plate for T2 (=late 10T, I think) has one extra hole for mounting steering servo (red circle). This extra hole is a key to this build.

<Front>

・Dynotech front arm
・Front bumper from RPM
・Front shock tower from FibreLyte, "RC10 tower-Raymond Power"
https://www.rc10talk.com/viewtopic.php?f=38&t=33388&sid=6da407611632cce403fb197ffc9ad35f#p379717
・With this shock tower, you can adjust the roll center (I use the lowest hole for a carpet track to raise the roll center)
・B6 big bore front shock
・Shock tower, nose tube and suspension mounts are tightened with hex nuts

・RC10GT steering bellcrank, using the upper holes on the 10T nose plate. Here, I use a thin lead plate in the bottom side of the chassis as shown by blue square and add counter sinks on the plate. Note that you don't need this plate if you use RC10GT chassis
・Custom Works 10deg caster block (-10deg) with B3 king pin (using outer holes), I will try 5deg too
・Stock inline steering block with Worlds (RC10GT) axle (tread is close to 250mm)
・Stock ballstud with one thin shim + 2mm spacer below it on the steering block (try to reduce bump in)
・Adding two holes for mounting the steering servo on NDS chassis (red circles) where the extra hole on the 10T (T2) nose plate is used as a reference. Now the steering servo is moved forward and I have enough space to accommodate ESC, battery etc.
・ All marks are consistent in this post, I hope

[R16]

<Middle>

・From front to rear: Radio receiver, 25g weight below capacitor, and ESC
・The battery cup is fixed with one screw (shown by red square) and double-sided tape
・B6 battery holder nut (ASC91731) and RC10 steering servo holder shown by red arrows are used to fix a short Lipo battery
・Button screw is used on ESC side and cap screw on other side for body fitting
・Two linkage from the transmission. Blue body posts from a local hobby shop are used
・Yokomo motor cooler

[R16]

<Rear>

・Modified stock RC10GT shock tower (explained in next post) with B6 wing mount (the second hole from bottom on the tower and upper hole on the wing mount are used)
・The spacer on the wing mount is used to hold the body (shown in next post)
・B6 big bore rear shock
・GPM trans brace
https://www.rc10talk.com/viewtopic.php?f=36&t=39699&start=15
・Dynotech motor mount
・RC10GT transmission mount need to be modified (shown in next post)
・Dynotech rear arm. I asked Chad at Dynotech to add extra holes on the other side of the arm (where the shock ends are attached) so that I don’t need to flip the rear arm
・Custom Works hub carrier with two 2mm spacer below the ballstud (raise roll center)
・Upper camber link is attached to the inner lower hole of the bulk head (raise roll center)
・B4 top shaft with V2 slipper (gearing is not optimal now)
・B44 rear CVA
・Custom Works rear axle spacer 0.125inch and B4 rear axle wheel spacer
・Rear bumper is RC10GT front bumper (AS#7774) where TC4 block carrier bushing (AS#3874) and hex nut are used to attach to the chassis

[Lonestar]

always top-notch builds and explanations Love your posts!

[R16]

<Misc.>
There are three things to note.

1. Transmission mount

Small modifications (cutting, small red arrows) are required for clearance

2. Rear shock tower

The same procedure as B1.5
i. Put two shock towers together by using the bottom and top of the body mount holes.
ii. Add four shock tower mount holes by using the shock tower in the front side as a reference.

3. Body mount

I use Velcro tapes in three places and wing mount screws to hold body. I need to add the lower wing mount holes.

That's all. Thank you very much for your attention.
Please ask any question if my explanation is not clear.
I will keep posting information regarding those cars (I start running and working on RC10 again).

[R16]

I start working on RC10mid on a carpet (stock).
https://youtu.be/GQt5XZ4ljyU
I should add a rear droop, and use thicker oil or stiffer spring for rear.
I will try to increase initial turn-in speed.