Hi, new member in the UK
Hi, new member in the UK
Hi, I'm new to this forum and new to the RC10 in general.
When I was younger I used to race, starting with Tamiyas and moving to a Schumacher Procat before stepping away from the hobby for 20 odd years.
I always admired the RC10 but didn't get the chance to own one.
Having picked up the hobby again a couple of months ago, and being disappointed when I found out I'd missed the RC10 Worlds re-release, I decided to try and get my hands on an RC10 after all these years.
Last week I found a vintage RC10 Team Car on eBay that had been built but not run. I kept a close eye on it and managed to win it.
Now I've just got to wait for it to arrive from France.
Being completely new to the RC10 - what do I need to know? Any common caveats or pit falls? Any common mods or improvements?
Also my tool collection is almost entirely geared towards Tamiya. What am I going to need to be able to maintain a vintage RC10 Team Car?
When I was younger I used to race, starting with Tamiyas and moving to a Schumacher Procat before stepping away from the hobby for 20 odd years.
I always admired the RC10 but didn't get the chance to own one.
Having picked up the hobby again a couple of months ago, and being disappointed when I found out I'd missed the RC10 Worlds re-release, I decided to try and get my hands on an RC10 after all these years.
Last week I found a vintage RC10 Team Car on eBay that had been built but not run. I kept a close eye on it and managed to win it.
Now I've just got to wait for it to arrive from France.
Being completely new to the RC10 - what do I need to know? Any common caveats or pit falls? Any common mods or improvements?
Also my tool collection is almost entirely geared towards Tamiya. What am I going to need to be able to maintain a vintage RC10 Team Car?
- mk-Zero
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Re: Hi, new member in the UK
Thanks.
No immediate plans but I can't rule it out in the future.
I'd love to get back to racing but there isn't a club near me anymore. Getting to the nearest ones is tricky for now with family life.
- Basher67
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Re: Hi, new member in the UK
Welcome to the forum.
Biggest downside to owning an RC10 is you soon realize that just one won't do. I have 7 currently ranging from stock original to full aftermarket custom. I had 11 cars with enough spare parts to build a couple more before recently thinning out the herd.
You will need to get a set of SAE allen type wrenches or drivers (the biggest being 3/32") and a 1/4" socket or wrench to get you started with the tools.
Biggest downside to owning an RC10 is you soon realize that just one won't do. I have 7 currently ranging from stock original to full aftermarket custom. I had 11 cars with enough spare parts to build a couple more before recently thinning out the herd.

You will need to get a set of SAE allen type wrenches or drivers (the biggest being 3/32") and a 1/4" socket or wrench to get you started with the tools.
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Re: Hi, new member in the UK
Hi and welcome peter_B
You got a real steal. I was watching that car also (re white and blue longitudinal stripes). Last team car in that condition I saw sold went for twice as much.
I was at work Sunday morning and couldn’t get to my phone in time to place a bid.
That car is near mint it would be a shame to run it. Get one that is a little more used...
I've recently started racing again after a 27 year break, I ran a Rc10 worlds car for half of the regional championship last year. In the off season I ran a Rc10B6. This season I have been running the B6 on carpet and astro, and the b6D and B5 on low grip dirt.
What do I think? Tracks have changed the cars have adapted. The RC10 was a revolution in 1985 the rest has been evolution. On a 80's style track the RC10 is competitive on a 21st century track not so much... besides racing a car without part support is expensive or simply impractical.
The RC10 is always more fun
you are going to need a few tools 1/16" , 5/64"(2mm), 3/32" allen drivers also a 0.050" allen driver this one MUST be high quality (MIP or Hudy)
also a few nut drivers 3/16" 1/4" and 11/32"
Be advised like Basher said this is adictive...
You got a real steal. I was watching that car also (re white and blue longitudinal stripes). Last team car in that condition I saw sold went for twice as much.
I was at work Sunday morning and couldn’t get to my phone in time to place a bid.

That car is near mint it would be a shame to run it. Get one that is a little more used...
I've recently started racing again after a 27 year break, I ran a Rc10 worlds car for half of the regional championship last year. In the off season I ran a Rc10B6. This season I have been running the B6 on carpet and astro, and the b6D and B5 on low grip dirt.
What do I think? Tracks have changed the cars have adapted. The RC10 was a revolution in 1985 the rest has been evolution. On a 80's style track the RC10 is competitive on a 21st century track not so much... besides racing a car without part support is expensive or simply impractical.
The RC10 is always more fun

you are going to need a few tools 1/16" , 5/64"(2mm), 3/32" allen drivers also a 0.050" allen driver this one MUST be high quality (MIP or Hudy)
also a few nut drivers 3/16" 1/4" and 11/32"
Be advised like Basher said this is adictive...
Re: Hi, new member in the UK
@bluewormx thanks. I'm glad you didn't get a chance to bid on it 
I'm just not someone who could have a car purely for the shelf. It will get run but not bashed. If it does get raced it would most likely be in a vintage class.
It's likely to be a good while before any of my car's get near a track.
Thanks for the tip on the tools. I'll start looking for what I need. Is there a reason why the 0.050 in particular needs to be high quality?

I'm just not someone who could have a car purely for the shelf. It will get run but not bashed. If it does get raced it would most likely be in a vintage class.
It's likely to be a good while before any of my car's get near a track.
Thanks for the tip on the tools. I'll start looking for what I need. Is there a reason why the 0.050 in particular needs to be high quality?
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Re: Hi, new member in the UK
The 0.050" is really small about 1.3mm if it is not made to very tight tolerances it will round out the hex of either the screw or itself.
The MIP driver is expensive at $14 USD but it saves a lot of pain.
The MIP driver is expensive at $14 USD but it saves a lot of pain.
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