RC10GT Brushless Elec Speed Runner Build

[Ranman]

Hey everybody. Thought I would start a thread on my RC10GT Brushless conversion / speed runner project. I recently dusted off an old 10GT I have laying around and became interested in the brushless conversions I’m seeing on these.

I have a loose goal of setting up a fairly well running 80mph rig.

For power, I’m planning to run a Tekin RX8 ESC with a T8 2650KV sensored motor on 4S. Initial gearing will be 34/54

Electronics so far are just an old school Futaba Magnum JR setup with receiver and servo.

I have converted the truck to 17mm hex’s using Hot Racing’s conversion and have installed GRP wheels and S3 compound tires. Seems like this is a pretty common speed-runner wheel/tire combo, but we’ll see how they do.

Regarding the chassis setup, I am lowering the ride height significantly by moving the truck front shocks to the rear and then running buggy shocks in the front with limit spacers installed. Heavy springs and 90wt oil all the way around.

To get the 40mm T8 2650KV motor to fit with the DynoTech motor plate, I have used spacers to raise the Stealth transmission up .250”. I will also be installing the Damper Hobby / GPM trans brace. Another benefit of raising the trans slightly is to “straighten” out the CVD running angles when running In the lowered “squat” position.

Here are some pics as I work through the chassis build / setup process. Once this is complete, I’ll move on to the electronics layout and rigging.

Here’s the stock RC10GT ride height with the GRP’s installed and correct F/R truck shocks

[Ranman]

Trans and DynoTech plate in stock position. 40mm motor will not fit

[Ranman]

Raised Stealth transmission

[Ranman]

1.02” front shocks mounted in the rear. CVD’s head nearly straight into the raised trans, Turnbuckles relocated to upper hole on shock tower

[Ranman]

.89” buggy shocks with down stop limiters up front

[Ranman]

Here’s the Tekin T8 40mm motor installed

[Ranman]

This is pretty close to the final ride height with the 1.02” front truck shocks mounted out back and .89” buggy shocks with limiters installed in the front. The nose is slightly lower than the rear at this point. Camber and toe adjustments still needed to straighten things out.

[OUTLAWD]

Nice build so far!

I have a similar project that is mostly together, but not nearly as clean as yours.

[Ranman]

Got the top trans brace installed and properly spaced.

[OUTLAWD]

What is your target ride height?

Also, it might not hurt to look into 0 degree rear arm mounts

[Ranman]

Honestly, I'm not real sure on the ride height. Somewhere around 3/4" to 1" with a slight rake. I want it low, but I don't want it completely on the ground.

Do you have any idea if there are 0 degree rear mounts other than the aluminum ones I've seen on eBay?

[OUTLAWD]

I've found the aluminum ones a couple places, but no luck scoring plastic ones, yet. If I find them somewhere, I'll post up.

[Ranman]

Right on. Where are you in metro Detroit? I'm over near Walled Lake / Novi.

[OUTLAWD]

Ahh, OK, I am in Plymouth.

I haven't found any decent roads to open mine up yet...I hit 45mph in the parking lot at work on 2S, but I needed a bit more real estate on 4S

[Ranman]

Quick update to the build. I have sourced a large pinion and installed it. Initial gearing will be 32/54. Was trying to get a 35t pinion, but could not locate one in stock anywhere.

I'm also beginning to layout the battery area. To keep things simple, I have a goal of retaining the main electronics (receiver and steering servo) in their original stock locations and still find room for the big ESC and a LiPo pack. With this, I basically have a 100mm x 48mm open area and if I space the battery up some can expand the 100mm to something wider. I have some ideas on how I'm going to setup a battery strapping system that will allow the use of varying LiPo sizes.

Once I get a battery hold down system in place, and source a battery pack, I should be all set to finish things up and get her running.