Caged Optima MkII

[DennisM]

Scorpion trailing arms

Belt conversion for Stinger (Very Heavy Duty compared to the Optima conversion)

Plan is to find some telescopic driveshafts for the rear.

[losiXXXman]

Cool!. Question for you Dennis. Are you making your cages yourself with tubing bender? I want to have a near stock looking Ultima, but have not yet tried to make a cage.

[DennisM]

Thanks -

I use solid T6 6061 6mm alu rods - they bend well mounted in the bench vise (no flattening)
If I were to use tube, I´d use tubing bender, as You suggest, and a softer alloy.

Lars (HCP22) has a very detailed build thread on here, called "Blueprint Scorpion", where he explains how he built his cage from aluminum tubing - It´s worth a look.

I saw a original cage on the "bay" not too long ago - pricey but still cheaper if You compare it with the hours spent.
But If You want a custom cage - then it´s just to start bending away

If It where me trying to replicate the Ultima cage, I´d go for TIG and Stainless steel 6mm Hydraulic pipe.

[Mr. ED]

Now I see why you were trying to get me to use scorpion trailing arms on the MX834

For the sliding axles , you could try using traxxas parts of the bandit

[DennisM]

Traxxas check - I´ve made one (radicator II) but not really satisfied.
I started this build Yesterday, since You didn´t wanna test the Scorpion arms for me

[Mr. ED]

I tested those plenty when I built the ghost-rider.
They're a pain for anyone wanting offroad capable suspension travel

[AYKBOBCAT]

Plan is to find some telescopic driveshafts for the rear.

You might be interested in this setup.

http://www.tamiyaclub.com/showroom_model.asp?cid=127816

Good solution for cheap I think, if that's what you have in mind.

[DennisM]

Thanks for the link -
It´s a nice UJ, but not telescopic/sliding.

With fully compressed suspension, the shafts bind - at normal stance, they´re about to pop out.

[Mr. ED]

Thanks for the link -
It´s a nice UJ, but not telescopic/sliding.

With fully compressed suspension, the shafts bind - at normal stance, they´re about to pop out.

You should be able to solve that without a need for telescoping shafts. Try raising that cross plate a little. You may have to move the wheels a little further behind the outdrives too. Worst case scenario: Limit the shock travel.
Don't you wish they made longer trailing arms. That'd solve some of the angle changing issues.

[DennisM]

I tried with some 2mm spacers under the suspension studs - didn´t do much difference.

It´s no problem at normal stance, but the dogbones will disappear when it gets air - and since it´s more or less a rocket, it´s going to get a lot of air

[Mr. ED]

you give up too quick

I have U-J's on the ghostrider as i was worried about popping dogbones. With U-J's at least they won't get lost.
I used it in 3 maybe 4 races and never poped even one.

True: I use shorter rear shocks, but I also spent a long time in getting the swing and angle changes to work out right for the dogbone end to stay in the drive cups

[DennisM]

To be honest, it all comes down to bearings
I made the width of the rear planing on using the Optima UJ´s
And they fit! but I didn´t have any 5x10x3 bearings, only 5x10x4 which made it bind.
So I went on a rampage and found some PB wheelshafts and Avante dogbones

Just ordered proper bearings and another 1/18 crawler slider shaft, which will be cut to fit.

[Hcp22]

It looks grate Dennis

[BoostCreep]

I love the caged look on that chassis. Have you made any progress since then?

That is definitely an interesting build. Curious to see how you work out the halfshafts.

[DennisM]

Thanks for the kind words -

Regarding the progress: The bearings arrived so now it sits with the Optima UJ´s - no binding or popping of.
I´ll need Jeff to cut me a saddle chassis, LiPo cradles, narrow topdeck, front and rear shock mount and and and...