RC10 B1.5 - Build #3 and #4
- GoMachV
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- scr8p
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Re: RC10 B1.5 - Build #3 and #4
I had to run to hobbytown so I grabbed a pair of b4 rear hubs to try on this. With b44 cva's, I'm about 1mm wider than my "old is new" cars. I still need to clearance the arms a bit, but I think this setup should work. I'll just run b4 wheels on it.
- scr8p
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Re: RC10 B1.5 - Build #3 and #4
mocked it up a bit last night. did some dremel work on the outer arm for clearance. also tried some shocks to see which length i will need. without making a taller shock tower, 1.32's are too long. 1.18's seem to be about right, so i will go with them. it's quite cluster%@#$ of different parts so far. t2 tub, b2/b3 trans and arm mounts, b2 arms, b4 hubs, shocks and wheels, b44 cva's and an rc10 shock tower.
now that the rear is basically figured out, time to move to the front. at this point, i'm going to go with a truck nose plate just for ease. but there will be longer front arms made for it.

now that the rear is basically figured out, time to move to the front. at this point, i'm going to go with a truck nose plate just for ease. but there will be longer front arms made for it.
- scr8p
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Re: RC10 B1.5 - Build #3 and #4
I grabbed a set of take off b4.2 rtr shocks off ebay. I don't need anything fancy for this build, and $26 shipped for a new set of shocks worked for me. 

- scr8p
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Re: RC10 B1.5 - Build #3 and #4
I finally get to update the purple chassis build.
Around October last year I asked Niki if he would be willing to help me out drawing up a pair of front arms for me. He agreed, but it evolved into a much larger project which is why it has taken so long. That project build will show up on here one day. But back to the purple build for now.
My plan is to just use rere white parts on the back. But with the truck nose I would've been stuck using rpm or dynotech arms. I didn't want that, so I sent Niki an rpm worlds arm to draw up and asked him to make it look like an AE wide track arm. Well, here they are...

Around October last year I asked Niki if he would be willing to help me out drawing up a pair of front arms for me. He agreed, but it evolved into a much larger project which is why it has taken so long. That project build will show up on here one day. But back to the purple build for now.

My plan is to just use rere white parts on the back. But with the truck nose I would've been stuck using rpm or dynotech arms. I didn't want that, so I sent Niki an rpm worlds arm to draw up and asked him to make it look like an AE wide track arm. Well, here they are...
- Niki
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Re: RC10 B1.5 - Build #3 and #4
Take a coffee or tea break to get that bright white color away...
http://www.rc10talk.com/viewtopic.php?f=99&t=36595

http://www.rc10talk.com/viewtopic.php?f=99&t=36595
NIXconcepts --- Imaterialise Shop --- Printables.com/@NIXconcepts --- Quadra-symmetric RC10 --- RC10 '91 Worlds Conversion --- Start of NIX91 story...
- scr8p
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Re: RC10 B1.5 - Build #3 and #4
Well, it's been a long time since i messed with either one of the builds. Especially #4. But in my quest for an all white B1.5 I decided to put a 2.25 stealth in #3. Here is where it's at so far. It got set aside again and i didn't get the rest of the trimming done on the motor plate, but you get the idea. Brad Reelfs actually built one like this back in the day.
So the other day I was cruising ebay and, for whatever reason, a GT battery holder/bumper caught my eye. I never thought about it before, but I got to thinking that it should bolt right up to a T2 tub. And, since it's longer than a graphite motor guard, it would help compensate for the shorter T2 tub behind the trans. So it may be possible to run a complete 2.25 trans with really no mods other than the needed holes drilled in the tub (and some sort of upper trans brace).
I like when an idea comes together.
So the other day I was cruising ebay and, for whatever reason, a GT battery holder/bumper caught my eye. I never thought about it before, but I got to thinking that it should bolt right up to a T2 tub. And, since it's longer than a graphite motor guard, it would help compensate for the shorter T2 tub behind the trans. So it may be possible to run a complete 2.25 trans with really no mods other than the needed holes drilled in the tub (and some sort of upper trans brace).
I like when an idea comes together.

- jwscab
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Re: RC10 B1.5 - Build #3 and #4
that's perfect!! I picked up one of those gt rear bumpers to put on a graphite chassis with a litespeed heatsink, but then found I could get the rpm ones. I had to notch the guard slightly where the motor plate ran on the chassis. How the clearance?
- scr8p
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Re: RC10 B1.5 - Build #3 and #4
Arm mounts clear so everything is good.
I won't be using it on this purple tub since I already have the T2 guard ano'd purple. And, I already altered a 2.25 motor plate to fit it. But I'm sure I will use the idea sometime in the future.
Gonna have to re-engineer the rear bulkhead though to work with the 2.25 plate though. Can't get a gear cover on with the ball studs set further back.
I won't be using it on this purple tub since I already have the T2 guard ano'd purple. And, I already altered a 2.25 motor plate to fit it. But I'm sure I will use the idea sometime in the future.
Gonna have to re-engineer the rear bulkhead though to work with the 2.25 plate though. Can't get a gear cover on with the ball studs set further back.
- jwscab
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Re: RC10 B1.5 - Build #3 and #4
been so long since I made that bulkhead I don't remember what it looks like there, photo is good, but loses a little detail. Can the ball locations be milled out to push them forward?
- JK Racing
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Re: RC10 B1.5 - Build #3 and #4
Oh, that purple looks horrid - I'll PM you an address to dispose of it properly. Please include a matching nose & motor plate 
Love it - cant wait to see it done!

Love it - cant wait to see it done!
--Joey --
Vintage A&L and Factory Works
Old School Racer & Vintage RC Car nut
JKRacingRC.com
Vintage A&L and Factory Works
Old School Racer & Vintage RC Car nut
JKRacingRC.com
- scr8p
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Re: RC10 B1.5 - Build #3 and #4
Ok.... 5 year update.
So I decided to go back to the T2 trans, though I may change my mind on that here at some point. Pieced together a set of earlier threaded shocks (.89 front, 1.32 rear). Jconcepts turnbuckles, battery brace, and low friction AE ball cups. Still have to get the wing mounts on, make a front bumper, install electronics and paint a body.
Hoping to have it ready for the vintage race in NC in a few weeks..... if I can make it. Not sure if it'll be the car I race but I want to get some laps on it.


So I decided to go back to the T2 trans, though I may change my mind on that here at some point. Pieced together a set of earlier threaded shocks (.89 front, 1.32 rear). Jconcepts turnbuckles, battery brace, and low friction AE ball cups. Still have to get the wing mounts on, make a front bumper, install electronics and paint a body.
Hoping to have it ready for the vintage race in NC in a few weeks..... if I can make it. Not sure if it'll be the car I race but I want to get some laps on it.
- Frankentruck
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Re: RC10 B1.5 - Build #3 and #4
The front arm brace isn't on the front arms anymore. Would it not fit with the these arms? And the battery cup is reversed. Is that for a more forward CG?
Frankensteined RC10T3 / Franky Jr RC10GT-e (x2) / A+ stamp / Toy Story RC / Graphite replica / B1.5 BFG 5LTi / Clonewald / Hyper Hornet
"I love the effort, but it sure looks like you took the long way around to a tub again"
"I love the effort, but it sure looks like you took the long way around to a tub again"
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