Here are a few pics of my RC10 Re-Re runner. Wanted to keep it mostly stock. Only upgrades are JConcepts bellcranks and 2.2 inch wheel conversions. Let me know what you think!
I know you're asking him, but I can tell you that the advantages of an aftermarket bellcrank over the stock one are a little less flex, a lot less slop, less resistance, and most importantly greater durability.
If you decide you want to upgrade your bellcrank I suggest this: http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXDWHZ&P=7
Plus the four bearings to replace the bushings.
. . . you have Associated Green Slime for brains. And not even new Green Slime, but old gooped out Green Slime.
Going from the original servo saver steering linkage to this, do I need all of those parts or just these (link below) if I have a turnbuckle, ball studs and ball cups and will order bearings anyway?
I don't have my car in front of me so I guess I'm mostly just asking if I need to order those aluminum machine screws as well.
I think you would be good to go as long as you have extra screws. I'm pretty sure those screws are the same as all the others on the bottom of the car.
. . . you have Associated Green Slime for brains. And not even new Green Slime, but old gooped out Green Slime.
85Edinger wrote:I think you would be good to go as long as you have extra screws. I'm pretty sure those screws are the same as all the others on the bottom of the car.
The servo saver linkage is already mounted with 8-32 x 7/8 aluminum screws so I'm thinking I'm good to go.
I would also recommend the Dirt Hawgs. I use them on several cars for street use and they last quite a long time. They are made with Proline's M2 compound so they are much harder than their current off-road tires.
RC10 Short Arm | Novak Tempest ESC | Tamiya Torque Tuned 25T | Savox 1258 | Stealth Trans w/ Exotek Slipper Eliminator (geared 24/81)
RC10B3 | HW Just Stock Club Spec | Reedy 13.5 | Savox 1258