Gene Husting First RC10 Replica/Tribute - Need Your Ideas

[limestang]

I've decided to attempt the build of Gene Husting's First RC10. Since I do not have the skills to hand form a chassis, the basis of the build will be a Classic RC10 Re-Release. My goal is to use as many Classic parts as possible, while staying true to the theme. Some of the non-classic parts will include:

Single Stock Servo Saver mounted in the center (Have)
Tamiya Frog Front wheels and Tires (Have/On Order)
Nicd Sanyo Battery Pack w/ Duct Tape Bands on each end(Have)
Novak Servo's (Have)
Reedy Modified Motor (Need)
Black Associated Decals (Have)
Rear Tires - Proline Knobby (Have)
Wing Tubes - Anodized Gold (Need to have done)
Tie Rods and rod ends (Need to find)
6-Gear Trans - Remove felt seals and caps (Have)
Original nose, trimmed per photos and AE logo sanded (Need to find a clean one)
Chassis - Trimmed per photos's (Have, need to trim)
Shocks - Strip gold, Aluminum Collars, Dye Rod Ends Red, Edinger Style Spring Cups (Need to make)
Rear Shock Tower - Custom Fab (Need)
Receiver - N/A???
Speed Control - N/A???

I plan on trimming the front of the chassis to match Gene's. Eventually I would like to re-anodize aluminum parts to a light gold.

Future Improvements:
I would love to somehow procure a chassis without the 4-40 holes
Machine some of the parts out of nylon

Let me know your thoughts/suggestions.

Thanks Limestang

[THE H.P FREAK]

HI!... Pretty easy to do. I've been building one for about 4 months now. Still working on the perfect colour match for the chassis in powdercoat. I hate anodizing. I've got everything done but the custom front/rear shock towers.

[limestang]

Excellent HP Freak- Powder coating is a great idea.

Did you find a way to fill the extra holes?

Did you shorten the nose?

Can you post some photos?

Thanks Limestang

[THE H.P FREAK]

HI!... I cut and modified both the chassis and nose plate. Tig welded up the chassis and tig'ed up all the chassis holes not in use. Sorry, no pics yet.

[Vale]

Il looks like the nose plate is polished on the front but the AE logo?

[SteveK]

I wish I knew how to TIG weld to fill in extra holes in chassis.

I think these are the rod ends and balls you need:
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXK091&P=7
The comparable Du-Bro parts are almost $2 per end.

[mtbkym01]

I wish I knew how to TIG weld to fill in extra holes in chassis.

I think these are the rod ends and balls you need:
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXK091&P=7
The comparable Du-Bro parts are almost $2 per end.

These are great, sorry to hijack, but will these be correct/more correct for an early unstamped edinger than the classic rod ends?

[GoMachV]

I wish I knew how to TIG weld to fill in extra holes in chassis.

I think these are the rod ends and balls you need:
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXK091&P=7
The comparable Du-Bro parts are almost $2 per end.

These are great, sorry to hijack, but will these be correct/more correct for an early unstamped edinger than the classic rod ends?

No, those are 2-56 which is correct for the prototype but production was 4-40. They are basically the same as the front anti roll bar hardware though

[mtbkym01]

No, those are 2-56 which is correct for the prototype but production was 4-40. They are basically the same as the front anti roll bar hardware though

ok, cool, so much to learn with these cars, thanks

[SteveK]

No, those are 2-56 which is correct for the prototype but production was 4-40. They are basically the same as the front anti roll bar hardware though

I thought he was building the prototype. Which would require the 2-56 hardware.

Edit: Ah, I missed the question about the Edinger cars about the quoted post. Switching from Safari to Tapatalk is not always ideal.


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