RC10 B1.5 - Build #3 and #4
- Asso_man!
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Re: RC10 B1.5
Mr Black says you should go for white, I was actually about to propose that in an earlier comment but then deleted it as I remember you had to use many B2/3 parts. But if you can design some parts in white then go for that!
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- scr8p
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Re: RC10 B1.5
nah, i'm good with going white. i don't need any b2 or b3 parts.
i'll be using dynotech arms front and rear (unless jake makes more of his before i buy them). so i'll be looking at (in white):
truck front bulkhead
castor blocks
steering knuckles
worlds style steering bellcrank (rere)
rear arm mounts (rere)
ball cups (rere)
rear bulkhead (custom - in the works)
my biggest issue will be the trans case, unless i can get one made for a reasonable price. i'll also me to round up a pair of rpm worlds or gt rear hubs to build my typical old is new rear suspension.
but, if i go with a standard buggy rear setup i can use the rere arms and hub carriers too.
not exactly sure on shock towers yet, but with the design of the new rear bulkhead, it will accept a standard rear buggy tower and not have the body fitment issues at the top. i'll be able to just get a set of towers from aaron and not have to worry about making custom stuff.

i'll be using dynotech arms front and rear (unless jake makes more of his before i buy them). so i'll be looking at (in white):
truck front bulkhead
castor blocks
steering knuckles
worlds style steering bellcrank (rere)
rear arm mounts (rere)
ball cups (rere)
rear bulkhead (custom - in the works)
my biggest issue will be the trans case, unless i can get one made for a reasonable price. i'll also me to round up a pair of rpm worlds or gt rear hubs to build my typical old is new rear suspension.
but, if i go with a standard buggy rear setup i can use the rere arms and hub carriers too.
not exactly sure on shock towers yet, but with the design of the new rear bulkhead, it will accept a standard rear buggy tower and not have the body fitment issues at the top. i'll be able to just get a set of towers from aaron and not have to worry about making custom stuff.

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Re: RC10 B1.5
do you need a t2 tranny case?scr8p wrote:what do you guys think, white or black parts? i'm leaning white for this one.
i plan on designing and having a new rear bulkhead made, so i can have that done in white. only thing left would be the trans case. there's no reason to have one of those made, so i guess i could paint the case an off white. i don't know..... we'll see how it goes. i'll probably change my mind 20 times before i actually start bolting parts to it.![]()
- scr8p
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Re: RC10 B1.5
nah, i have one. but if i want a white one to flow with the other parts, i'll either have to paint mine, or have one made.
- CamplinP
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Re: RC10 B1.5
Throw it in peroxide! 

The Fox, Falcon, 9 RC10s black/gold/graph, Optima Mid SE EXT, Losi XXXT, B3, B4, 3 T4s, Evader BX, Evader ST, Buggy Champ '09, Sand Scorcher '10, RC10T, RC10DS
- scr8p
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Re: RC10 B1.5
Ok, a little update.
So i pitched an idea and some measurements to Joe (thanks again
) for a new rear bulkhead to alleviate the body/shock tower issue i've had with my previous 2 B1.5 builds. He took it from there and it showed up today. Basically, the top half of the bulkhead needed to be slid back so that a standard buggy shock tower could be appropriately placed on the front side of the bulkhead.
The standard t2 tower is an 1/8" thick, so the top was moved back an 1/8" to attach the trans directly to the bulkhead.
Using the body already trimmed for my #2 build, you can see this new setup puts the tower inside the body where it should be. The other plus is that custom rear towers are no longer needed.

So i pitched an idea and some measurements to Joe (thanks again

The standard t2 tower is an 1/8" thick, so the top was moved back an 1/8" to attach the trans directly to the bulkhead.
Using the body already trimmed for my #2 build, you can see this new setup puts the tower inside the body where it should be. The other plus is that custom rear towers are no longer needed.

- GoMachV
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Re: RC10 B1.5
Looking good!
I'm a bit confused though, I thought you didn't like the truck arm setup on this chassis setup? What has you thinking differently?
Watching intently as I have a T2 here and I'm not sure what I plan on doing with it yet.
I'm a bit confused though, I thought you didn't like the truck arm setup on this chassis setup? What has you thinking differently?
Watching intently as I have a T2 here and I'm not sure what I plan on doing with it yet.
- scr8p
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Re: RC10 B1.5
i don't like the rpm truck arms on a standard buggy nose (with b4 wheels). this one has a truck nose plate to go with more of a worlds setup (dynotech arms, etc).
Re: RC10 B1.5
I see. I assumed you were putting them on a truck nose plate in the first place. I need to do less skimming and more readingscr8p wrote:i don't like the rpm truck arms on a standard buggy nose (with b4 wheels). this one has a truck nose plate to go with more of a worlds setup (dynotech arms, etc).
- scr8p
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Re: RC10 B1.5
Got a new pack of cutoff wheels and wanted to make sure they cut.

This might work. Might not.....


This might work. Might not.....

- GoMachV
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- scr8p
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Re: RC10 B1.5
since i don't have any b2 arms or mounts yet, i'm just kind of winging it. but what i have in my mind should work.
what will happen now...... the bulkhead holes on the tub have become front arm mount holes. i drilled and countersunk new ones for the back. the new trans mounting holes too. i still have to lengthen the square opening for the diff a little bit to the back for the 2.40 trans to drop in.
it may be tough to see in the pics, but the holes are actually spread farther apart than on the b2/b3 plate..... about a 1/16" per side. this was done because of utilizing the front bulkhead mounting holes for the arm mounts. this is going to push the arms out as well obviously, but i'm hoping the use of b3/t3 hub carriers will bring it back in so i don't have any dogbone length issues.
when it comes to the bulkhead, joe is going to make one similar to the one he made for my purple tub, but where it mounts to the chassis will be narrowed and mount between the arm mounts. i also hope to incorporate the b2 trans brace.
if all goes well, i'm going to make a drill template to transfer all of it to a nicer tub.

what will happen now...... the bulkhead holes on the tub have become front arm mount holes. i drilled and countersunk new ones for the back. the new trans mounting holes too. i still have to lengthen the square opening for the diff a little bit to the back for the 2.40 trans to drop in.
it may be tough to see in the pics, but the holes are actually spread farther apart than on the b2/b3 plate..... about a 1/16" per side. this was done because of utilizing the front bulkhead mounting holes for the arm mounts. this is going to push the arms out as well obviously, but i'm hoping the use of b3/t3 hub carriers will bring it back in so i don't have any dogbone length issues.
when it comes to the bulkhead, joe is going to make one similar to the one he made for my purple tub, but where it mounts to the chassis will be narrowed and mount between the arm mounts. i also hope to incorporate the b2 trans brace.
if all goes well, i'm going to make a drill template to transfer all of it to a nicer tub.
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