RC10T "B" Offset

[VintageFanatic]

Hey guys-

I was really excited to get my latest CL find completely disassembled and ready to clean when I noticed something on the B stamp...no offset.

It's not in the greatest shape, so refinishing might be in the works anyway but I'm starting to think the chassis was replaced at some point. Didn't all of the #7001 RC10T kits contain the "offset" A or B chassis? My understanding on this is limited, but this doesn't look like no offset to me All of the other parts on the truck appear to be #7001 correct (thin 2-hole glass towers, early ballcups, etc).

Here's a few photos:

[marlo]

All 10T's had either a "B", or "C" stamp. The 7001 truck did come with an "off set" chassis. The one you have, has the new in line holes, along with the non counter sunk "off line" battery holes, also correct for a late 7001....( I think).

[VintageFanatic]

Thanks for confirming Marlo. So I would think any #6301 B stamped chassis be period correct if I decided to go that route? I didn't realize there were other subtle differences like the "offline non-countersunk" battery holes you mentioned.

[THUNDERSTRIKE1]

Marlo is correct about that.Ive had three or four 7001s and a late one like yours.But you dont see many late ones much or often either.don

[marlo]

Thanks for confirming Marlo. So I would think any #6301 B stamped chassis be period correct if I decided to go that route? I didn't realize there were other subtle differences like the "offline non-countersunk" battery holes you mentioned.

For a true 7001, you need an off set chassis, later "B" stamps are fine if your building (early-mid) #7035's, or #7011's

[VintageFanatic]

Thanks for the info guys!

Marlo, just want to clarify as your two posts seem to contradict - is the inline chassis not period correct on a later 7001? Maybe you found differently after the first post...if so, thanks for the correction and please disregard!

I'm a bit obsessed with the details on this one as I really want to make this truck right

[marlo]

Thanks for the info guys!

Marlo, just want to clarify as your two posts seem to contradict - is the inline chassis not period correct on a later 7001? Maybe you found differently after the first post...if so, thanks for the correction and please disregard!

I'm a bit obsessed with the details on this one as I really want to make this truck right

The chassis you have is correct on a late 7001. It still has the off line holes, and counter sunk 6-gear holes.
Here are the two type's of chassis used for the #7001. Note, the left gold pan is just like yours (late), and the early chassis on the right.

DSC_8151.jpg

[RC10th]

My late 7001 chassis only has countersunk offset holes. No inline holes to speak of

[Charlie don't surf]

The parts on the 7001 that make it an early truck, and the parts that make it a late version may be different to some. Arm version, trans brace and chassis combined make the "early/late" thing.

[THUNDERSTRIKE1]

shock towers too you forgot to mention. theres the thin ones and the thick ones natural and black ones.That cover all
the 10T models.DON

[Charlie don't surf]

Not for the 7001- for other 10T models there are, but the 7001 is 2-hole per side thin & milled fiberglass.

[VintageFanatic]

I think that clears it up. Now, I just have to decide whether to replace the chassis or refinish/re-ano the current banged up one in the photos. I'll be posting a thread on the restoration soon.

Thanks again for all the great info guys!

[jh1985]

Sorry to ask this but im new to rc10t just got 2 for 100 bucks. anyhow Exactly where is the offset you talking about. Im trying to learn as much as i can about them since im going to restore my 2 t's. Thanks

[GoMachV]

They are talking about the area that the battery cup bolts into. Some are offset

[marlo]

Shown with the blue screws.