I was really excited to get my latest CL find completely disassembled and ready to clean when I noticed something on the B stamp...no offset.
It's not in the greatest shape, so refinishing might be in the works anyway but I'm starting to think the chassis was replaced at some point. Didn't all of the #7001 RC10T kits contain the "offset" A or B chassis? My understanding on this is limited, but this doesn't look like no offset to me All of the other parts on the truck appear to be #7001 correct (thin 2-hole glass towers, early ballcups, etc).
All 10T's had either a "B", or "C" stamp. The 7001 truck did come with an "off set" chassis. The one you have, has the new in line holes, along with the non counter sunk "off line" battery holes, also correct for a late 7001....( I think).
Thanks for confirming Marlo. So I would think any #6301 B stamped chassis be period correct if I decided to go that route? I didn't realize there were other subtle differences like the "offline non-countersunk" battery holes you mentioned.
VintageFanatic wrote:Thanks for confirming Marlo. So I would think any #6301 B stamped chassis be period correct if I decided to go that route? I didn't realize there were other subtle differences like the "offline non-countersunk" battery holes you mentioned.
For a true 7001, you need an off set chassis, later "B" stamps are fine if your building (early-mid) #7035's, or #7011's
Marlo, just want to clarify as your two posts seem to contradict - is the inline chassis not period correct on a later 7001? Maybe you found differently after the first post...if so, thanks for the correction and please disregard!
I'm a bit obsessed with the details on this one as I really want to make this truck right
Marlo, just want to clarify as your two posts seem to contradict - is the inline chassis not period correct on a later 7001? Maybe you found differently after the first post...if so, thanks for the correction and please disregard!
I'm a bit obsessed with the details on this one as I really want to make this truck right
The chassis you have is correct on a late 7001. It still has the off line holes, and counter sunk 6-gear holes.
Here are the two type's of chassis used for the #7001. Note, the left gold pan is just like yours (late), and the early chassis on the right.
The parts on the 7001 that make it an early truck, and the parts that make it a late version may be different to some. Arm version, trans brace and chassis combined make the "early/late" thing.
I think that clears it up. Now, I just have to decide whether to replace the chassis or refinish/re-ano the current banged up one in the photos. I'll be posting a thread on the restoration soon.
Sorry to ask this but im new to rc10t just got 2 for 100 bucks. anyhow Exactly where is the offset you talking about. Im trying to learn as much as i can about them since im going to restore my 2 t's. Thanks
They are talking about the area that the battery cup bolts into. Some are offset
It's time to stand up to the bully. Support the companies that support the industry, not the ones that tear it down. Say no to Traxxas Factory Works website
Did the RC10T ever come with a black B stamp chassis with the offset battery holder? If so, would it be possible for a late model 10T to come with one?
thanks,
Quik
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Thanks for the quick reply Charlie.
The latest edition to my collection is a late model 7035, that was never finished. Many parts still in bags but the chassis has a lot of in the box rash. I also came a across a really nice new black B stamp...
Has anyone gotten a set yet? Are they going to be a 2.2 wheel with a wide offset similar the the b3 wheels? Just curious if so i has plans for a set on my woin worlds graphite runner
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That would be AWSOME! I could use the real rpm worlds arm mounts and still have 2.2 wheels
Hi,
I was wondering where I could find some offset 2.2 truck wheels. I remember HPI used to make some deep dish/offset wheel, which I can't find anymore, but some of their new offerings seem to have some offset. I also read that the duratrax...
ok, i'm done buying chassis' now. this was the last one on my wants list. i need to start finishing the ones i already got, instead of buying more. :wink:
so, anyway. this one's just gonna be a nice little edm or late model. most likely an edm.
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Wow that looks super sweet mate. The rear axle set-up looks pretty crazy I haven't seen that before... 8)
I know I am getting deeper and deeper into the old dog, new tricks portion of life, but my mind isn't shot. Until things like this happen, and well, maybe it is. :)
Offset should be simple. It is the difference from wheel mounting plane to center...
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That helps as I'm fiddling with some axle and tyre mods, thanks
I need some help from you guys.
Is there a Yokomo wheel that has a offset that is between ZC-827C and ZC-835?
I have a pair of ZC-827C and they rub the steering knuckles and at full steer the shocks.
and I tested a pair of ZC-835 and then the car...
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This is really good info sandkil. This is a tough subject to gather the facts on, but you did a great job! Sorry I can't be of more help. I can tell you the offset difference between 870c and later yz10, when the arms changed shape. The rear wheels...
I love mixing rc10 parts and making my own rc10s. (like my 15 inch wide rc10 . a trip to my old dirt oval rc track got me thinking of the offset oval rc10 i always wanted to build . so i said what the heck get the parts bin out and do a mock up/...
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I personally don't like different length arms. The change on roll center is vastly different for each side of the car. It is for a camber link change too though but a longer arm has less angular change through travel as a short arm does. The means...