V2 shocks
-
- Approved Member
- Posts: 299
- Joined: Thu Feb 28, 2013 9:00 am
- Location: Den Haag, The Netherlands
- Has thanked: 35 times
- Been thanked: 10 times
V2 shocks
Hi,
I need some help with my new V2 (7482) shocks I intend to use for my T3.
I've just finished building the rear shocks, and I've noticed that when I compress the shock, the spring (6480 green spring) "rubbs" (hope that's correct English) against the threaded part of the shock body.
That can't be right can it? Am I doining something stupid? Am I using the wrong spring?
thanks!
Bastiaan
I need some help with my new V2 (7482) shocks I intend to use for my T3.
I've just finished building the rear shocks, and I've noticed that when I compress the shock, the spring (6480 green spring) "rubbs" (hope that's correct English) against the threaded part of the shock body.
That can't be right can it? Am I doining something stupid? Am I using the wrong spring?
thanks!
Bastiaan
-
- Approved Member
- Posts: 8921
- Joined: Tue Apr 08, 2008 2:44 pm
- Location: USA
- Been thanked: 8 times
-
- Approved Member
- Posts: 299
- Joined: Thu Feb 28, 2013 9:00 am
- Location: Den Haag, The Netherlands
- Has thanked: 35 times
- Been thanked: 10 times
-
- Approved Member
- Posts: 8921
- Joined: Tue Apr 08, 2008 2:44 pm
- Location: USA
- Been thanked: 8 times
Re: V2 shocks
Yes has, that's the real benefit (aside from higher oil volume) as the spring rate is way more consistent due to the lack of deflection,
- Lonestar
- Approved Member
- Posts: 4270
- Joined: Wed Dec 12, 2007 5:17 am
- Location: Switzerland, yannow, in Europe (or almost)
- Has thanked: 626 times
- Been thanked: 167 times
Re: V2 shocks
Kinwald's old trick : sand the side opposite to where it bows...
(never worked with my shocks, but if Kinwald says it, ...)
Paul
(never worked with my shocks, but if Kinwald says it, ...)
Paul
AE RC10 - Made In The Eighties, Loved By The Ladies.
Blue Was Better - now, Blue Is Bankrupt.
Facebook affiliate program manager: "They go out and find the morons for me".
Life is short. Waste it wisely.
Blue Was Better - now, Blue Is Bankrupt.
Facebook affiliate program manager: "They go out and find the morons for me".
Life is short. Waste it wisely.
-
- Approved Member
- Posts: 299
- Joined: Thu Feb 28, 2013 9:00 am
- Location: Den Haag, The Netherlands
- Has thanked: 35 times
- Been thanked: 10 times
Re: V2 shocks
sanding down my new shocks seems wrong.... (even if legend's suggest it )
Should have saved for the big bore's perhaps. on the other hand: big bores on my old T3 seems over the top ....
Should have saved for the big bore's perhaps. on the other hand: big bores on my old T3 seems over the top ....
Re: V2 shocks
They did the same on my B4.1 WC as well. I just went to big bore springs to avoid the issue.
RC10 Short Arm | Novak Tempest ESC | Tamiya Torque Tuned 25T | Savox 1258 | Stealth Trans w/ Exotek Slipper Eliminator (geared 24/81)
RC10B3 | HW Just Stock Club Spec | Reedy 13.5 | Savox 1258
RC10B3 | HW Just Stock Club Spec | Reedy 13.5 | Savox 1258
- RC10th
- Approved Member
- Posts: 4330
- Joined: Sat Feb 16, 2013 9:51 am
- Location: Australia
- Has thanked: 41 times
- Been thanked: 1065 times
Re: V2 shocks
My big bores needed a small teflon shim to prevent the seals from moving up and down
I was old school - when old school wasn't cool !
- carloco8
- Approved Member
- Posts: 639
- Joined: Sun Jun 04, 2006 2:02 pm
- Location: SoCal
- Has thanked: 10 times
- Been thanked: 32 times
Re: V2 shocks
One of kinwald's other tricks was to cut a 1/4 round of one end of the spring coils off. IMHO, it 's the only way to get a non rubbing AE pre-big bore shock (with AE springs), unless you got a lucky set of springs. You can cut more or less. I would start with cutting 1/8 at a time and check for any rub. Sometimes you have to cut both ends a little too. Just remember less cutting is more effective; you don't want to cut past that sweet spot where it won't rub the shock or else you'll be back to square one except now with a shorter spring. The purpose of cutting some of the coil off is to alter the uneven points of pressure where the spring contacts the spring cups causing the deflection.Lonestar wrote:Kinwald's old trick : sand the side opposite to where it bows...
Old school racing all the way!
Re: V2 shocks
You could use 12mm springs on your V2 shocks. Thats what I did.
http://www.rc10talk.com/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=23919&start=60
http://www.rc10talk.com/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=23919&start=60
"It's not broken, it's British!"
-
- Approved Member
- Posts: 299
- Joined: Thu Feb 28, 2013 9:00 am
- Location: Den Haag, The Netherlands
- Has thanked: 35 times
- Been thanked: 10 times
Re: V2 shocks
using 12 mm springs is exacly what I'd in mind! Thanks.
When the 12 mm ones don't work, I'll start cutting up some springs, but that sounds a little challenging to me ....
When the 12 mm ones don't work, I'll start cutting up some springs, but that sounds a little challenging to me ....
Create an account or sign in to join the discussion
You need to be a member in order to post a reply
Create an account
Not a member? register to join our community
Members can start their own topics & subscribe to topics
It’s free and only takes a minute
Sign in
-
- Similar Topics
- Replies
- Views
- Last post
-
- 0 Replies
- 792 Views
-
Last post by adam lancia
-
- 4 Replies
- 701 Views
-
Last post by j0pp3
-
- 2 Replies
- 360 Views
-
Last post by mikea96
-
- 1 Replies
- 427 Views
-
Last post by justinspeed79
-
- 1 Replies
- 432 Views
-
Last post by HotRodJosh
-
- 7 Replies
- 813 Views
-
Last post by Bugle
-
- 5 Replies
- 1003 Views
-
Last post by adam lancia
-
- 5 Replies
- 954 Views
-
Last post by Norman
Who is online
Users browsing this forum: Ahrefs [Bot], Google Adsense [Bot], Semrush [Bot] and 4 guests