Dave145's gold pan build.
Re: Dave145's gold pan build.
Hmm... Would that trans work in the grass too? I could understand the dirt, but grass creates a bit more of a drag I think. Does your car do lots of donuts or fish tailing with the 6 gear in it? Mine ran for a bit with a 6 gear on pavement, but when i put on spiked dirt tires and went into the grass the car was impossible to control because all it did was spin out. By the time I would get to even half throttle the car would have already spun out one or twice. My diff if i remember right wasn't overly tight, but is was tight enough to keep the clutch engaged most of the time to keep the spur fron melting.
- GoMachV
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Re: Dave145's gold pan build.
Keep in mind he is racing his car on a proper track and taking the time to correctly maintain it after his races are over.
You can bulletproof it all you want but without maintenance and rebiulds when needed your going to end up sad again. Metal gears are strong, but wear ALL the gears. The nylon gears in the middle are like a fuse, keeping the metal top and bottom usable. That trans was NEVER meant for that kind of power. Looking at your pics, your metal gears are wasted. Now, by installing a new pair of gears to ride against this others that are worn already, you will have much quicker wear. The right way to do it is to replace them ALL, but now we are back to cost. Its going to be a lot cheaper to build and maintain a stealth, As well as your chances of it actually lasting are better.
You can bulletproof it all you want but without maintenance and rebiulds when needed your going to end up sad again. Metal gears are strong, but wear ALL the gears. The nylon gears in the middle are like a fuse, keeping the metal top and bottom usable. That trans was NEVER meant for that kind of power. Looking at your pics, your metal gears are wasted. Now, by installing a new pair of gears to ride against this others that are worn already, you will have much quicker wear. The right way to do it is to replace them ALL, but now we are back to cost. Its going to be a lot cheaper to build and maintain a stealth, As well as your chances of it actually lasting are better.
Re: Dave145's gold pan build.
RE: Running in the grass.
1/10 scale buggies sit low to the ground. When you run them over grass, the grass "lifts up" on the chassis, holding it(the weight of the chassis) high enough off the ground that you lose traction.
1/10 scale buggies sit low to the ground. When you run them over grass, the grass "lifts up" on the chassis, holding it(the weight of the chassis) high enough off the ground that you lose traction.
Re: Dave145's gold pan build.
I've learned that one the hard way... I've got (slightly) larger tires to put on it but it does run aot in low grass and occasionally medium grass.
@gomachv-- I have a newer set of out drives for my 6 gear I vould try, but islets are as you said; wasted. I agree on the fact that the 6 gear will not hold up to brushless pwier very long without frequent rebuilds, so I'll go with the stealth to try and save myself some headaches and money in the long run.
@gomachv-- I have a newer set of out drives for my 6 gear I vould try, but islets are as you said; wasted. I agree on the fact that the 6 gear will not hold up to brushless pwier very long without frequent rebuilds, so I'll go with the stealth to try and save myself some headaches and money in the long run.
Re: Dave145's gold pan build.
Dave145 wrote:Q) Does your car do lots of donuts or fish tailing with the 6 gear in it?
A)No not at all unless I purposely "tried" to break traction.
By the time I would get to even half throttle the car would have already spun out one or twice.<--sounds like a different issue...caster/camber/something loose in the front. Not the trans.
but is was tight enough to keep the clutch engaged most of the time to keep the spur fron melting.<---if you have a "clutch" you don't have a 6 gear trans. The 6 gear trans has an external differential.
Re: Dave145's gold pan build.
Ok wrong wording with that one. My differential appeared to be correctly assembled at the time so I may have an issue in the front end. After checking the front arms and linkage, i found that both front arms rock back and forth quite a bit when they are attached to the car. the C hubs do the same thing. Could this be causing the problem?
Re: Dave145's gold pan build.
Also what weight oil is in your shocks? Mine were pretty stiff I think at some point some 70wt got put in them to try and keep the tires on the ground. I'm guessing I'm supposed to have 30wt all around? Can the shocks cause the car to fishtail too and burn donuts? It would sure seem like they can. I also had an issue with my stealth digging out and melting the diff gear and I was told the shocks were done wrong. I just rebuilt my shocks completely and replaced all the o rings so what oil should I put in them?
Re: Dave145's gold pan build.
Yes that can DEFINITELY be the problem. I recently had to get rid of a chassis that had the sides milled to save weight. This weakened the chassis enough that it flexed REALLY bad. Caused the car to loop for NO REASON.Dave145 wrote:Ok wrong wording with that one. My differential appeared to be correctly assembled at the time so I may have an issue in the front end. After checking the front arms and linkage, i found that both front arms rock back and forth quite a bit when they are attached to the car. the C hubs do the same thing. Could this be causing the problem?
Re: Dave145's gold pan build.
It appears as if the holes where the king pins go have been drilled one size larger to stop binding or something. Guess ill have to replace those parts too...




Re: Dave145's gold pan build.
It took plenty of work but here is the car in its current state. It's waiting for some 30wt shock oil and a steering bell crank. Since I'm going to be running the car with a mild brushed system (14-17t motor), I decided to put together a decent 6 gear tranny with some of my older more worn parts to help keep my newer and better parts for spares or shelf queens. the car has no extra braces at all and a very large front brush guard/ bumper. The rear tires are half bald, and the fronts are practically new I think. I hope to put a more reliable stealth in it once I get all those parts in as well.
Also my brushless system will be going into my rc10t2 that I'll be getting some time tonight.
Also my brushless system will be going into my rc10t2 that I'll be getting some time tonight.
Re: Dave145's gold pan build.
She looks great!
Just to give you an idea, here's an in-car vid of my Street Stock Gold Pan with the Novak GTB 4.5.
[youtube]Vmm9vdgmkOc[/youtube]
6 gear trans. I could only get about 20% throttle. With rubber tires, she had already "blown out" a set of rears so I was tiptoeing.
This car now has a Novak Ballistic 13.5 in her.
Just to give you an idea, here's an in-car vid of my Street Stock Gold Pan with the Novak GTB 4.5.
[youtube]Vmm9vdgmkOc[/youtube]
6 gear trans. I could only get about 20% throttle. With rubber tires, she had already "blown out" a set of rears so I was tiptoeing.
This car now has a Novak Ballistic 13.5 in her.
Re: Dave145's gold pan build.
do you think the car sits too high? I tested it with my graphite and they sit about equal but it still looks like it sits a bit high for a buggy. I don't exactly remember being able to fit my whole hand under it before I rebuilt it.
Re: Dave145's gold pan build.
I think she looks great.Dave145 wrote:do you think the car sits too high? I tested it with my graphite and they sit about equal but it still looks like it sits a bit high for a buggy. I don't exactly remember being able to fit my whole hand under it before I rebuilt it.
Best way to tell is to set her on a table with battery pack in the car. Look at the dogbones(from the rear).
They should set level with a battery pack in the car.
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