ILL's JRX2 modern runner / Budget build / New goodies:

[License2iLL]

Picked up these two trucks ones a JRXT and the other I can't figure out (80 bucks shipped would like to sell one if it can be identified):

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CIMG9557re.jpg (64.79 KiB) Viewed 3401 times

JRXT:

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CIMG9564re.jpg (61.51 KiB) Viewed 3401 times

underside I was thinking of laying some fiberglass on the rear by the motorplate it's taken a beating I didn't notice it before I bought it...but it might be more work than it's worth since I plan to run her anyway:

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CIMG9562re.jpg (60.7 KiB) Viewed 3401 times

Flysky GT3B ! And i bought an extra receiver and threw it on my vintage original JRX2... took it out of for a drive ! wow incredible radio strength a full football field away and still in control !! A Gen 40c LiPo...Thunder charger full metal casing...and a Brushless hobbies LT4 (jk race put me on to them and their reviews look good) 125.00 w/shipping from Hobbypartz.com plus 68.00 for LT4 ESC :

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CIMG9579re.jpg (71.32 KiB) Viewed 3401 times

Grand total so far $270. I'm waiting on the motor still.

You guys think I overpaid on the JRXT? can anyone help identify the 2nd truck?
Im gonna tear down the JRXT tranny right now try to inspect I dont like the way it sounds.

[bearrickster]

need better pic's but it looks like a Duratrax to me?

[JK Racing]

agreed, looks durtrax....

what motor are you planning on dropping in there? price? were you happy? then it is a good price.

Your gonna love that speedo, I am loving my 2 80A ones right now, both running blinky mode 17.5 in my 2 tub chassis RC10s. One will find its way back into the JRX soon.

[License2iLL]

I thought I saw the tires say duratrax do you know which model.
Attached some more pictures. (pix removed but run of the mill dura evader was the car)

[bearrickster]

I think they just called it Duratrax ST truck not sure? it was a cheap copy of the Losi xxt

[License2iLL]

You guys rock...with your info it turns out it is very likely a duratrax evader.....and ur right is an xxt knockoff and thats partly why I bought it ....thinking it was the xxt...no big deal maybe i can sell it later.

Im waiting on a trinity D3 540 can 17.5 turn. Roar approved+sensored.

[aradaiel]

There are a lot of things different between the xxt and evader.

The gearbox/mounting is completely different as well as the steering.

Front body mount is the same, though

[License2iLL]

Well a nice quiet peaceful afternoon turned into a gut wrenching patience testing, pullout the drill, brainstorming clustereffing...thanks to these 2 little bastards which had stripped heads...luckily after war-ing with the motor plate bolt I was able to spinoff the entire tranny to get the other stripped head bastard off too:

This is the rear of the chassis...not too happy but I'm trying to think of something durable and strong to build up this area to it's original dimensions again and then paint. Not the end of the world but not preffered:

Now for some good news(i hope) it looks to me like the tranny is in good shape overall...correct me if i'm wrong:

Now I wasn't mistaken in that something didn't feel right....the diff has a ratcheting feeling to it even when assembled outside of it's box and spun by hand...I suspect the little balls either need the lube that seems to look completly dried out OR the balls need replacing altogether. It could also be that this tranny is just like that and my vintage original has a slightly diff. tranny...not sure on that tho:

The molded gears look fine to me....just have to lube or replace the diff's metal spheres maybe.

I called it a day after this....not as far as I wanted to go today...the front end and misc. still need to come off the chassis but i loosened all those up already.

[JK Racing]

a crunchy diff is usually the thrust bearings (the super small balls around the head of the screw in the brass colored washer with little tiny holes), but could be the diff bearings as well. Flip the rings, give them a good cleaning (maybe even a quick sanding) replace all the balls (both diff and thrust assembly) and put it back together.

It should be butter smooth then.

FYI - my reciepe: Black grease on the thrust assembly, Clear grease on the diff balls.

[minreg]

First time I heard of the Flysky radio. Looks amazing for the price.
Have you had any glitching at all?

[License2iLL]

JK thanks. sounds like im gonna be cooking with that real real soon.

min the flysky's had prev. models to this one with great reviews....this one as well. I haven't had any problems so far. But I only got like 15 minutes real dirt action into her. I did find one bad review stating that the dude had interference at the track with another Flysky'er. Technically that's not supposed to happen.(built in auto correcting ch hopper) But that was one out of like 200 good ones. It's the best bang for the buck....there is a later model after this one it's the GT3C i believe...it's revisions include Lipo battery(vs. 8 AA's) and a sleeker design and slightly lighter/balanced. As it turns out it's too light and tips over easily due to the base being small. They moved the power on button to the center of the steering wheel and it likes to break requiring you to go in and repair (a perm repair albeit). And seems to be mostly in orange in the US other colors hard to find. I did want the Lipo batt...but i had bought 8 AA for the old futuba recently (not knowing when I was going to upgrade to 2.4). The kick in the balls for it was the power on/off button/ gauranteed need to repair. This one btw can be also be rigged to run the Lipo's but for me right now I got new AA 2700 mah's.

When I saw the sale....forget about it. It came with no instructions but I think its out on the net somewhere...I youtubed how to bind to the receiver which is ridiculously small btw and then just fumbled/figured the rest out. It will hold 10 preset cars so you can bind 10 diff receivers which are 7 bucks a pop. On paper that's just unstoppable. Who knows how it'll work long term but for now and a football field distance im content.

Theres a GT4 going to drop soon...but it's going to have touchscreen and more layers of control and pretty GUI's and stuff. I'll have none of that...leave me w/buttons and turn dials and LCD screen...but thank you flysky hope that model works out for them.

[JK Racing]

I've had my flysky for a while, love it. Little cheap feeling against my Airtronics M8, but still a very solid radio. Never had interference or binding issues. I've used it for racing and for hours of rock crawling.

[minreg]

What will stick to the chassis other than maybe JB Weld or fiberglass resin. I used JB to fill holes in a chassis but never tried to skim coat it.
How much is missing?
You could just put a little paint on there. Then keep it off its rear by using some limiters on the shocks. Just some random ideas...

[License2iLL]

Trinity D3 17.5 came in today..brand spank new...55 bux. I know the D3.5 is out and i checked out its specs it looks good but this is kind of close to it and kept me halfway to 100 bux rather than more than 3/4 had I gone for the D3.5 (I can still claim to be on a budget).

Discovered some small hairline fractures on the bottom of the rear stock perches..sucks they will need replacement....but they weren't broken all the way through just small fractures that were certain to grow until they split. So I took the opportunity to skim over the fractures and other reasonable prone to breakage areas with 2 part epoxy adhesive delayed 30 minutes to set. I'm sorry I didn't have my camera to show a before picture. It is kind of hard to tell because the epoxy is see through and well the flash goes right through it. You can see some small bubbles of aeration locked in place tho. I did the semi bad perch and the good one...I also hit both the spring retainer's on their tops and sides:

I know it's not super attractive but it is somewhat of a budget build so I'm attempting to keep setup costs down...as well as "reinforcing" areas breakage prone. I don't know them all so please let me know of others to possibly target. It's not fully cured until 24 hours but it's cured enough to touch after about 2 hours . I'm happy enough with the results to say this is likely what I'll slap onto the rear of the chassis and mold it up nice then sand down if possible.

Epoxy does not get brittle or crack..it has some flex but is considered stronger and more durable than polyester type adhesives.
On paper it sounds exactly what could supplement weak areas on our hard to come by parts.
Yes yes the screws still unscrew.

I can't find my original losi shock bottles...which pisses me off cuz I stared at them for years and now finally I can use them and no one can hone up to me giving it to them and I know I gave it to family to rebuild the shocks for my nephew not too long ago.
I had the 2 bottles that came originally....is there a budget recommendation single bottle out there for all 4 shocks? the newer losis are 12 bucks a pop! and I don't know which flavor works best for all 4.

Grand total=$335.00

[JK Racing]

Go safe with AE or Losi oil, 30, 32.5 or 35...pick one and have fun.