Old RC10-Need Help Identifying Kit No.? Please?
- Winger
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Old RC10-Need Help Identifying Kit No.? Please?
I have learned recently there were different versions of this car. Just wondering what version I have got here. It has a KO Propo with old school ESC mated with a brushed Twister motor. The car is really slow compared to what I remember them being. My friend had one back in the day and it was simply awesome! I am thinking the speed is related to the battery packs as they are all antiquated 6 cells.
I got it going, but need to set a plan for it. Hoping to get some good advice from the experts on these topics: body, battery and motor.
Body: really want to go original here, but I saw a guy on here that paid nearly $100 for a wing....which I do not plan on doing. I want to drive mine. I can appease myself with paint and decals. Wondering what the decal kits look like on these? Also, how many colors on the body for a stock paint job?
Battery: All the packs I have are old as can be, but can I safely go higher than the 1200maH packs that this ESC and the brushed motors that the cars were designed for?
Motor: Car came with a Twister, which reads "Twister Twister Twister Twister" that is in purple with silver background on the sticker. I also got a '85 Trinity World Champ motor. Which of these two would be the best given they are both in good operating condition?
My first RC10! Appreciate any input!
I got it going, but need to set a plan for it. Hoping to get some good advice from the experts on these topics: body, battery and motor.
Body: really want to go original here, but I saw a guy on here that paid nearly $100 for a wing....which I do not plan on doing. I want to drive mine. I can appease myself with paint and decals. Wondering what the decal kits look like on these? Also, how many colors on the body for a stock paint job?
Battery: All the packs I have are old as can be, but can I safely go higher than the 1200maH packs that this ESC and the brushed motors that the cars were designed for?
Motor: Car came with a Twister, which reads "Twister Twister Twister Twister" that is in purple with silver background on the sticker. I also got a '85 Trinity World Champ motor. Which of these two would be the best given they are both in good operating condition?
My first RC10! Appreciate any input!
- Goatless
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Re: Old RC10
Lol, the $93 wing was a customs/Spain/let your gf mail it for you deal. More comical now than when it went down
"I'm like the fat girl at the prom, just glad to be here!!!
Southern Fried Racing : The Sequel
Southern Fried Racing : The Sequel
Re: Old RC10-Need Help Identifying Kit No.? Please?
Looks to be a late edinger car...not sure what kit #
You can still buy the original style protech body. However, they are not exatly the same. the major differences would be that they are made in china and the window netting is different. I think I paid less than $20 shipped for the body and a wing.
for the battery you can go higher if you like. mah is just the capacity of run time the battery can hold. the bigger the # the longer the run time. Just pay attention to your gearing and motor. heat is your enemy.
You can still buy the original style protech body. However, they are not exatly the same. the major differences would be that they are made in china and the window netting is different. I think I paid less than $20 shipped for the body and a wing.
for the battery you can go higher if you like. mah is just the capacity of run time the battery can hold. the bigger the # the longer the run time. Just pay attention to your gearing and motor. heat is your enemy.
- Winger
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Re: Old RC10-Need Help Identifying Kit No.? Please?
I found this manual amongst the stuff. The body on the car now (protech like) is not the same one shown in this image.
Here is a scan of the last page of the manual (host keeps cutting off top of scan):
Here is a scan of the last page of the manual (host keeps cutting off top of scan):
- flipwils11
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Re: Old RC10-Need Help Identifying Kit No.? Please?
It's a sidewinder body by Associated (see my gallery thread... I am a fan of them).
- DerbyDan
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Re: Old RC10-Need Help Identifying Kit No.? Please?
Hi Winger,
What you have is the first version of the RC10 - it has the short front wishbones/arms & what we call the '6 gear' gearbox (later cars had a gearbox called the 'Stealth' which was simpler, more efficient & allowed the use of a slipper clutch to tame wheelspin/wheelies)
The version of your car came in a number of specs with different kit numbers;
'6000 basic kit, less all electrical
6010 full kit, less battery
6012 full kit, less battery, body, wing
6016 full kit, ball bearings, less battery
6020 full kit, with 6-cell battery pack'
The above information came from Slotcarrot's very informative thread here; http://www.rc10talk.com/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=13059
The shell on your car is the alternative 'Sidewinder' body - the body shown on your scanned image is the Protech1 shell that you can still buy & would have been originally supplied with the kit (if the kit included a shell)
You will hear people talk about Caddilac & Edinger cars - this relates to the street name/location of the factory - earlier cars were made at the Edinger address until they switched production to Associated's Caddilac address. The same basic RC10 was made during this time at both places but early production cars assembled in the Edinger factory featured a number of significant differences that makes them more desirable & valuable to some collectors.
With you speed problem - its most likely that your batteries are well passed their sell-by-date - you can still get battery packs made up from the subC type battery cells that will fit straight in your car - these will be the 'Nimh' type (Nickel Metal Hydride) rather than being the older Nickel Cadnium (NiCads) that your old batteries will be. The Nimh batteries are redily available & reasonably priced, but you will need a Nimh specific charger due to the different charging characteristics of these batteries. Your motors could also probably do with a good clean too, and new brushes if you can find them, as these are probably well worn - ideally you'd skim the commutator of the motor on a dedicated lathe (This is a process that trues the contacts on the centre part of the motor & stops the brushes bouncing that causes arcing) But finding someone with one of these lathes that offers the service these days is likely to be very slim!
What you have is the first version of the RC10 - it has the short front wishbones/arms & what we call the '6 gear' gearbox (later cars had a gearbox called the 'Stealth' which was simpler, more efficient & allowed the use of a slipper clutch to tame wheelspin/wheelies)
The version of your car came in a number of specs with different kit numbers;
'6000 basic kit, less all electrical
6010 full kit, less battery
6012 full kit, less battery, body, wing
6016 full kit, ball bearings, less battery
6020 full kit, with 6-cell battery pack'
The above information came from Slotcarrot's very informative thread here; http://www.rc10talk.com/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=13059
The shell on your car is the alternative 'Sidewinder' body - the body shown on your scanned image is the Protech1 shell that you can still buy & would have been originally supplied with the kit (if the kit included a shell)
You will hear people talk about Caddilac & Edinger cars - this relates to the street name/location of the factory - earlier cars were made at the Edinger address until they switched production to Associated's Caddilac address. The same basic RC10 was made during this time at both places but early production cars assembled in the Edinger factory featured a number of significant differences that makes them more desirable & valuable to some collectors.
With you speed problem - its most likely that your batteries are well passed their sell-by-date - you can still get battery packs made up from the subC type battery cells that will fit straight in your car - these will be the 'Nimh' type (Nickel Metal Hydride) rather than being the older Nickel Cadnium (NiCads) that your old batteries will be. The Nimh batteries are redily available & reasonably priced, but you will need a Nimh specific charger due to the different charging characteristics of these batteries. Your motors could also probably do with a good clean too, and new brushes if you can find them, as these are probably well worn - ideally you'd skim the commutator of the motor on a dedicated lathe (This is a process that trues the contacts on the centre part of the motor & stops the brushes bouncing that causes arcing) But finding someone with one of these lathes that offers the service these days is likely to be very slim!
My T.C Showroom; http://www.tamiyaclub.com/member.asp?id=28990
- Winger
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Re: Old RC10-Need Help Identifying Kit No.? Please?
DerbyDan, thanks a ton for your input. I ordered a new Venom NiMH 4200 maH 6 cell pack for it. Can't wait for it to arrive, so I can watch this ______ fly....I hope.
Tonight I tore the entire front off and have the plastic soaking in peroxide 3%. Hopefully I will get sun tomorrow/today for more soaking. As soon as I get these parts bleached and reassembled I will tear into the last 1/3rd of the car getting some more information on it.
After reading the awesome 25 years thread you suggested I tried to apply the many factors to my car....but at first glance it remains difficult to ascertain between mid and late edinger . I think others are correct in it being a later edinger.
Also, slapped a quick paint job on the body...I think it is better than what she had. Still not worth a set of decals though. I will pick up an original protech body and wing in the near future.
The car is not cleaning up like I would like though....
Thanks guys (gals?) for all the input and redirects!
Tonight I tore the entire front off and have the plastic soaking in peroxide 3%. Hopefully I will get sun tomorrow/today for more soaking. As soon as I get these parts bleached and reassembled I will tear into the last 1/3rd of the car getting some more information on it.
After reading the awesome 25 years thread you suggested I tried to apply the many factors to my car....but at first glance it remains difficult to ascertain between mid and late edinger . I think others are correct in it being a later edinger.
Also, slapped a quick paint job on the body...I think it is better than what she had. Still not worth a set of decals though. I will pick up an original protech body and wing in the near future.
The car is not cleaning up like I would like though....
Thanks guys (gals?) for all the input and redirects!
- Winger
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Re: Old RC10-Need Help Identifying Kit No.? Please?
Damn! The optima mid is a new car with this pack. The RC10 Is still gutted for cleaning/sunbathing. I can't wait to try it out though. I think the ESC might melt with this new Venom pack!DerbyDan wrote:
With you speed problem - its most likely that your batteries are well passed their sell-by-date - you can still get battery packs made up from the subC type battery cells that will fit straight in your car - these will be the 'Nimh' type (Nickel Metal Hydride) rather than being the older Nickel Cadnium (NiCads) that your old batteries will be. The Nimh batteries are redily available & reasonably priced, but you will need a Nimh specific charger due to the different charging characteristics of these batteries. Your motors could also probably do with a good clean too, and new brushes if you can find them, as these are probably well worn - ideally you'd skim the commutator of the motor on a dedicated lathe (This is a process that trues the contacts on the centre part of the motor & stops the brushes bouncing that causes arcing) But finding someone with one of these lathes that offers the service these days is likely to be very slim!
- Winger
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Re: Old RC10-Need Help Identifying Kit No.? Please?
Thanks...the bottom has scratches that are kind of annoying me. Did find an original box for it. Now got to fig out what I am going to do for body....ordered one of those too...I might give it a tryurpaldan wrote:Looks great. Cleaned up really nice!
Re: Old RC10-Need Help Identifying Kit No.? Please?
Looks nice!!! I like to see these old cars revived.
Did you try the new battery in it yet?
Did you fix the 6 gear issue?
Did you try the new battery in it yet?
Did you fix the 6 gear issue?
- Winger
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Re: Old RC10-Need Help Identifying Kit No.? Please?
I love seeing these restored too. I got an original edinger box for it so I can store it when I am done playing with it. Now I need to get a driver car...I don't want to get this one dirty.1990Racer wrote:Looks nice!!! I like to see these old cars revived.
Did you try the new battery in it yet?
Did you fix the 6 gear issue?
Have not tried new battery yet. I did try to sit it inside the car...it didn't fit and I don't want to cut the battery tray out....always something with these things Oh, and the connector on the new pack is the wring one, so it will not plug into ESC on RC10.
Might tear trans apart tonight. I am thinking the balls are flat on ring/spur gear (big white one). Going to take them out and roll them around on the table. The washers the guy was telling me about are like new. It sure has me puzzled.
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