new 10gt

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klavy69
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Re: new 10gt

Post by klavy69 »

me too then if we aren't gonna derail it any further tonight :lol:

Todd
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Re: new 10gt

Post by THEYTOOKMYTHUMB »

klavy69 wrote:tonight :lol:
Sorry, I was busy embarrassing myself in another thread far far away... :oops: :lol:
"The world looks so much better through beer goggles: Enjoy today, you never know what tomorrow may bring."
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Re: new 10gt

Post by 68sportcoup »

thanks guys im going to get to it this weekend i suppose i should take the motor off the car and tear it apart clean it up and seal it what is there to sealing it if i open it up do i need a gasket set to put it back together again/.
id like to try to get it runnin before i just convert it to brushless.

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Re: new 10gt

Post by THEYTOOKMYTHUMB »

The only seals you need are between the engine and manifold and the ring between the engine and header. They're very cheap, but the ones you have may be just fine. Check to see if they're torn or damaged. If you decide to convert, here's what I did. I need to go back and fix the photobucket links so the images show in the early posts. Apparently somewhere in between there I learned to post images. :lol:

http://www.rc10talk.com/viewtopic.php?f=36&t=7717
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Re: new 10gt

Post by klavy69 »

if you move the carb make sure that you push down hard when you tighten it back up to seal that o-ring there. Its one of the major air leak areas on that motor. Like thumber stated they ones you have should be fine though unless they are damaged or missing.


Todd
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68sportcoup
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Re: new 10gt

Post by 68sportcoup »

so i tore the engine out and took it apart well took the head off and the carb took the whole carb apart and cleaned everything there is no blockage now.
when putting it back together something didnt feel rite it was the fuel inlet on the high speed needle it was originally pointing slightly downward but the way it fits together it seems like it should be pointing upwards after looking at all the pics i could find online i think i was rite it should point up i need to get a few screws and the exhaust gasket was junk not sure if the hobby store is open today but if it is ill be there.
and i cleaned the one way bearing with alcohol and it seems much better.
when i had the engine apart i put my thumb over it and could feel it pulling down and pushing up so hopefully its ok.
set the carb to what the stock settings are.
hopefully i can find the gasket if not i got some permatex gasket stuff.
but i dont whant to rush it and mess it up either.
wish me luck.
and thanks again for all the help guys.
Tanks
Mike

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Re: new 10gt

Post by 68sportcoup »

so it took a bit of pulling but it started .
and it stalled whhen i tried to give it gass so i messed a bit with it and got it not bad but when i put it down something was slipping it might of been the slipper clutch hopefully.
another thing i noticed was fuel coming out the exhaust.
again hopefully its the tune .
and after lookign at the parts diagram something i meant to look at but forgot to in the rush to get it together.
is that it is supposed ti have a head gasket and it did not when i took it apart and it does not now that its together so i dont think the local shops have the gasket im sure tower does how bad will this make it run.
either way it did fire up .
and ya im not liking the pull start.
but theres allwys tomorrow.

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klavy69
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Re: new 10gt

Post by klavy69 »

68sportcoup wrote:and ya im not liking the pull start.
but theres allwys tomorrow.
you won't like it tomorrow either :lol: .

fuel coming outta the pipe is normal. Sounds like you have it really rich which is a good thing at this point. You can tune that out of it but you want it running rich like that and lean it out from there.

The head 'gasket' you mention is something I never had on any of these motors I have ever had. Some motors use them to shim up the head for more displacement(?). The head and piston sleeve are machined to the point you won't need it. Shouldn't make a runnable difference but could be wrong. I think over time I only ran 3 or 4 of these motors before I finally went OS then to Novarossi. My experience might differ from yours though so hopefully someone will chime in and correct me if I'm wrong.

Todd
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68sportcoup
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Re: new 10gt

Post by 68sportcoup »

wow to my suprise i tried it out today and it worked better than i expected got about a half tank through it.
at first it stalled when i gave it too much throttle so i fattened up the hsn seems better blue smoke all the way but i notice its harder to start this way either way it was pretty cool when i finally stoped it seemed pretty hot i got temps in 225 on the head and i could here fuel purculating in the carb and i could see it to when i took off the air filter.
is this too hot what are the temps i should be at.
also im using a pyrometer with the point on the end one i used to ose to stab the race car tires to check temps ill have to get one of those guns whey are probly quicker and more accurate.
not bad and i thought the motor was shot ill do what i can with it before i buy another engine.
Thanks
Mike

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Re: new 10gt

Post by klavy69 »

225 is the area to shoot for. Mine usually ran a lil hotter up towards 250-270 but might've been my 'needforspeed' mentality of the time :mrgreen: .

Todd
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Re: new 10gt

Post by adam lancia »

225 is a nice temp but it should be safe up through 240-250 without any worries. If it's hard to start, the low end needles might be too rich. Once the engine is warm, throttle response should be snappy. If it gurgles and takes a while to pick up then the low end is likely too rich. If it's super-responsive, even when cold, the low end is too lean.

Todd, I live your mentality!

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klavy69
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Re: new 10gt

Post by klavy69 »

adam lancia wrote:Todd, I live your mentality!
I didn't have it as bad as others but it was there :mrgreen:

Todd
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Re: new 10gt

Post by 68sportcoup »

like i said im to confident on my pyrometer.
at that temp should the fuel be boiling in the carb.
when i brought the car in to check the temp i could here the noise i pulled off the air cleaner and could see it bubling in the carb.
i was running it without the body.
i think i got the high speed pretty close now when i get home tomorrow and get it going ill mess with the lsn i was thinking it was rich but its at a hard to get to angl with the fuel tank but i can do it.
i may shoot up to harbor freight to get a temp gun i think that would be better.
after letting it sit the pull start just slipps again its the oil comming out off the back plate does this mean the bearing is worn or just that i dont know what im doing tunning it and it is rich.

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Re: new 10gt

Post by klavy69 »

bearings more than likely are wore. I've also had brand new motors leak thru there because when its rich and under compression there is no where else for the fuel to go.

get a temp guage you can trust and start fresh...

Todd
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Re: new 10gt

Post by 68sportcoup »

well i did it now.
my older son missed it the other day when i had it going so when he finished his homework we whent out and fired it up it was a little colder so i opened the hsn about a 1/4 turn then after runnin it i opened it a little more but not enough by about 3/4 of the tank came flying down the driveway it stalled and i thought i heard a snap or a click.
i knew something happened brought it in and it was fairly hard to turn over so i let it cool whent back out still the same.
i pulled the head off and thought i could see a score on the wall when i turned it over by hand it pushed the sleve out a little bitwithout the sleve it spinns fine but with it in there something is making contact somewhere.
so know what do i do can the sleve be pinched do i buy a new piston and sleve or just get a new motor and start from scratch.
of course that would mean what motor to buy .15 or .18 and the other question ae or os looks like the ae motors are about 96.00 and the os is 150.00.
if i get the os will my clutch and stuff fit on it .
i was looking for the mip 4in1 clutch but couldnt find it .
and actually the clutch in seemed to be working fine.
oh well doin my part to help the economy.

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