Is this normal for composite craft?

[Mr. ED]

I've just started my very first Mr. ED custom RC10 project, and am using this narrow chassis from composite craft: straight out of the original bag.

Wow, was I disappointed when I tried locating the front assembly on it!
It seems the holes are too low on the kicked-up section: the 2 halves of the front bulkhead sit so close to the horizontal part of the chassis that the arms can't fit.
Even the shock mount plate is almost touching the horizontal part of the chassis: is that normal?

It's nothing that can't be fixed with a dremel, but I didn't want to modd the graphite chassis if possible. So, for now I raised the front bulkhead by putting 6 spacers of 3mm high between the chassis and bulkhead bottom. Any suggestions welcome.

(I can post pics tonight if anyone needs them.)

[Asso_man!]

which Comp Craft do you have? The double deck with narrow front and rear ends for use with RPM long A-arms and 10T front bulkhead? If that is the case, I had not any problem with mounting mine... Pics would defo help! Cheers from Belgium ED

[Asso_man!]

This one http://www.rc10talk.com/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=969&st=0&sk=t&sd=a&start=15

[Mr. ED]

No, not this one: it's almost straight from front to back: just alittle wider than the battery box only.
I guess it was intended for oval-sprint car bodies.
I'm leaving the office now and will put the pics on when I get home, after walking the dog , diner, etc
Hopefully tonight

[Eau Rouge]

IIRC, yeah, that was normal. We used those chassis in oval racing and they almost always needed to be relieved with a Dremel by the backs of the front arms.

[shodog]

do you have a stock rc10T front bulkhead you can try? this would tell you if it's the chassis or bulkhead that's off. I'm using a stock 10T bulkhead on mine and didn't run into any problems





I have found that RPM parts are not always designed that greatest. I swear, I think RPM is the GPM of vintage parts

[Eau Rouge]

That chassis was pre-RC10T so it wasn't designed for that bulkhead. If it works, that's great, but it was designed around original RC10 parts. Most EVERYTHING back than had poor quality, fit and finish—not just RPM.

[Mr. ED]

IIRC, yeah, that was normal. We used those chassis in oval racing and they almost always needed to be relieved with a Dremel by the backs of the front arms.

I guess they never heard of jigs
Here's how I solved it for the time being.
see picture

I'm still considering mounting Tomahawk rails and front trailing arm suspension on this chassis one day. So I kinda prefer to keep the extra holes and shaving to a minimum for now.
Not that I mind a couple too many holes , but they allways seem to be just a tad wrong for the next project

[badhoopty]

you couldnt shave a scootch off the arms right below the kingpins could ya?

[Mr. ED]

That would have to be a big scooch: Even with the 3mm spacers the rear of the arm has only a half mm of clearance

[Dr. Robotnik]

My early Composite Craft chassis has had little semi circles shaved out of it to allow clearance for the rear of the arms.



Though that is probably not what you wanted to hear...

[Mr. ED]

That's what I had in mind, if it comes to a point where I decide to leave the rc10 front end on it.
Would still rather get some kind of trailing arm suspension front

[Dr. Robotnik]

As well as the Kyosho front ends I guess you are looking at you might want to try looking for an MRP Pro 110 front end as I believe that can be fitted fairly easily, but to be honest you'll have a hard time finding one I am afraid...

Or perhaps you could make a bracket (a sheet of graphite) which mounts in the front bulkhead holes and then mount the trailing arms outboard from that negating the need for extra chassis hole drilling.

Good luck.