Looking for some ideas. I keep blowing my diff gear in my 2.25 stealth. I've tried rebuilding it to spec three times, using the correct diff lube on the diff balls, and the associated black grease on the diff shaft balls that sit between the two washers, tigthen then a 1/4 turn off it, diff balls look fine. The actual outer gear ring shreads off from the center of the gear, where the diff balls sit, leaving a two piece diff gear...lol...
Looked into the metal diff gear from HG but apparently he does not make them anymore I don't even think he has an ebay store anymore. The GT one doesn't fit because it's 2.60
I'm running a mamba max pro with 7700kv and a 2s 5000mah lipo. Please help. I've had the setup in my old is new B1.5 and my graphite truck conversion and it's just killing the gear. Any tranny suggestions? Direct drive?? Anything. I just want the car and truck to run again. Thanks.
sounds like you need to loosen the slipper clutch more. I think if you upgrade to a B4 style, you get more slipper surface area, makes it a smoother power transition.
is the gear just ripped apart or does it look like the plastic was melted?
The actual teeth on the gears look brand new. It's the melting factor I think. I kow the 7700kv is too much but I can't bring myself to accept that. Lol...
I mean, honestly, I've seen vids of people running 6s with brushless set ups doing 65+ mph with a stealth tranny. I think I'm going to have to bite the bullet, buy another (multiple) plastic diffs and just run the slipper (b4 setup by the way) really really really loose. Oi vey. Another week of ordering, shipping and waiting waiting waiting...
What modern cars/trucks run all metal tranny's these days that have no problem with that much power? Any suggestions?
Ultimately, if it doesn't work out with my RC10's, I might just put a slower setup in them.
There must be something wrong with your setup, I run my RC10 with a Stealth (with B4 slipper), an Orion Lipo 3800, LRP Sphere ESC and an LRP X11 6.5T/5.250 kv with a sintered magnet and never had such a problem. My car accelerates like crazy and top speed is almost impossible to reach on a small track. I would take everything apart and rebuild it as per manual. Make sure the diff adjustement screw is on the spur gear side too.
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If you want to ship it to Germany then I'm game. I've never been able to hurt the Stealth internals regardless of motor, and I've run down to 6 turn triples on 7 cells. And no old 1980's 6 turn triple, this was in 2003
After running 27T stock brushed motors forever, I installed a 12x2 brushed Trinity modified motor last night. It was only $30 as opposed to converting over to brushless right now. The thing absolutely flies with the lipo. I love those batteries! I barked the diff pretty hard a few times. I didn't melt the gear but certainly flat spotted the diff balls so it now needs a rebuild. Are the parts for the 2.25 stealth diff the same as the current ones? In other words, am I going to have any issues finding replacement parts such as diff rings, balls, etc? In fact should I need a new diff gear, are those still available too?
Rings and diff gears are getting harder to find but a pair of rings should last you a long time if you lap them with a diamond surfacing board. Diff balls, thrust bearing, thrust bolt, thrust spring, plastic nut are all the same though.
Yep, thrust bolt is fine and ears are perfect. I tightened the thrust bolt all the way the last time I rebuilt it, hoping it look essentially lock up the diff and create no movement. What I think I have to do is rebuild again and this time, loosen my slipper wwwaaaayyy more than I have previously. Hopefully, that will work.
I really just want to drive my car and truck again to be honest with you!
Both diffs are shot. Oh well. I'll report back after the double re-build. Thanks.
I had an epic meltdown on mine this weekend at the track right in the middle of a heat.
Let's just say that I had to wrangle a 94stealthCE DRIFT car on an offroad track, haha!
My biggest issue was that my dumba$$ mechanic (me) hadn't done a diff rebuild (or even really checked the diff) in about 2 months.
I was running my slipper a little tighter than I should have been for track conditions, too. Was WAY tackier than we had expected on race day (which was nice because our track is normally extremely loose and dusty)...so I think what happened was the diff had loosened up, then melted down.
The balls centrifugally embedded themselves into the outer ring somehow which was pretty wild to see, but I think that before that happened they went on a diffring destruction spree which left both diff rings mangled and missing a ton of metal which ended up all over the insides of the tranny housing. Then, sometime during this heat treated high RPM debacle of diffball mania, the diff gear itself started a Chernobyl type of meltdown on the inner edges where all of the ball holes are (were??).
Actually, it's not really THAT drastic, but the embellishments are minor....like the Chernobyl comment....maybe more along the lines of 3-mile Island?? haha. Gotta love brushless/lipo technology. 3930kv/19p/87t on 2s/4000mah/40c gets fantastic run time!
Soooo...I have made a note to my mechanic to keep his eye on the diff, maybe even give it some love and a rebuild a couple days before our club race every month. I think I'll try ceramic balls on my next build, see how buttery they feel when I get them installed and the diff broken in.
Rest in peace little ball diff. I'll bury you in one of the marshaling stations next month.
Itchy Trigger Finger and RC Throttle Junkie
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So I've got an RC10GT with a stock ball diff. For some reason I've had bad luck with this diff over the years. It seems to slip under brushless power, and when I tighten it down to the point of not slipping, it gets crunchy fast and breaks the diff...
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Dang I’m running a 4.5t Novak Velociti brushless on my stealth 2:25 with a fixed gear hub, am I on borrowed time with my RC10DS?
I posted a couple years ago about having some issues with my RC10GT that I converted to brushless. It just would not put the power down. I drive mostly on the street just fooling around and that ball diff would inevitably chirp and get gritty after...
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Nice! U need to start doing videos on youtube like johnnyq90
Definitely thought about it, but when it comes time to do stuff I just want to get it done and not worry about camera position, lighting, etc. It can easily double the time it takes to...
Is there some trick to get the diff gear off the diff tube. I have a bushing in there I'd like to replace with a bearing, but I can't seem to get the thing apart. Anyone have suggestions?
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get a big pair of wire cutters, the cutting jaws are angled, so you put the jaws open end facing the gear and a little squeeze and the gear pops right off. I know this is an old thread. But still a good tip.
I seem to remember a thread about installing a gear diff from a current Associated buggy into the RC10GT transmission? But I can’t seem to find the thread. Anyone know about this? Thanks
Anyone know how to remove the diff pinion gear fom the diff tube in the 6 gear transmission without destroying it? I tried to buy a new tube but had no luck finding one. These old parts are near impossible to find.
Thanks.
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Thanks. I got it to come off but it took more than just twisting it! Hard to believe it doesn't loosen up on it's own from use.
