scr8p wrote:battery box + servo tape = no holes to drill
That's a great idea. I did that with my pink chassis build to mount the A&L chassis brace kit. I thought you guys might make fun of me though for taking the easy route and just using tape
I also agree on the litesink. I bolted it on because it was blue. When I get around to it I plan on striping the ano off a gold motor plate. Too bad AE didn't also powder the motor plate to match.
railey72 wrote:I thought you guys might make fun of me though for taking the easy route and just using tape
that's when you break out the........... i totally forgot to drill and countersink new battery box holes before i started building the car, and it's too much of a pita to do it now. i would've bought that.
railey72 wrote:I also agree on the litesink. I bolted it on because it was blue. When I get around to it I plan on striping the ano off a gold motor plate. Too bad AE didn't also powder the motor plate to match.
if your hear of someone doing a blue ano run, ask them if they'll do a stock one for you. the blue tub i painted (little lighter than the ae pc), i used a blue ano'd b3 motor plate and it looks pretty close.
the aluminum motor plate is used to dissipate heat from the motor, probably why ae didn't p.c. them.
[quote="badattitude"]Very nice!
Did you have to use a longer rear shock shaft with the Jammin rear tower? Is it taller than a standard tower?quote]
The rear shock tower is only slightly taller than stock. I just used standard rear shocks and they work fine. You could use longer shafts if you wanted to.
scr8p wrote:
if your hear of someone doing a blue ano run, ask them if they'll do a stock one for you. the blue tub i painted (little lighter than the ae pc), i used a blue ano'd b3 motor plate and it looks pretty close.
the aluminum motor plate is used to dissipate heat from the motor, probably why ae didn't p.c. them.
It's very funny that you mention this because I'll be sending some parts to my annodizer in Milwaukee to be anodized blue, intending to match the B3 factory team blue using a motor plate as an example for color. I'll be mailing them this week if anyone is interested.
Graphite chassis are very stiff and therefore do not need the motor plate to act as a stressed member.
The Litesink does not attach to the rear of an aluminum pan like the stock motor plate. Remove the two motor plate to chassis screws on your RC10 and see how much flex there is. The stock motor plate is a structual part.
ahh i see, thanks. i knew the very back section would flex if i got rear ended, didnt realize whole back would be compromised. i might have to rethink that then haha.
Awesome looking build! I am building my transmission practically the same as yours. I have everything you have but having a hard time finding the Jammin Diff rings. Now you are getting me really motivated to start this project, if only I was home.
Dirtburner, 
