My first RC10 : NIB gold tub CE edition

[robf]

As a kid back in the mid 80's I got into off-road and dirt oval 1/10 racing. I was wooed by the flashy ads for the original Ultima and the Optima/Turbo Optima. The RC10s where my competitors. I think in retrospect, I made the wrong choice and always sort of regretted it. So now, 20+ years later with my vintage racers and parts in boxes, I found my opportunity to pick up a NIB partially assembled RC10 for cheap. Now it's not the original kit, but I couldn't pass up the deal. It is the '92 Champion Edition #6011 with gold tub with the included stealth. It is about 80-90% assembled and is missing the body, most of the manual and probably some screws, etc. Pictures to follow.

-Rob

[robf]

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Not the greatest macro shot. I need to try again with the "good" camera. But as you can see, it's clean and never run.

[robf]

Ok, I have a bunch of questions as I learn more about what I have. I am still undecided what I will end up doing with the kit, either selling it to a real RC10 enthusiast or finishing the kit myself and putting it on the shelf. Or maybe I should just convert to new age gear and give it a run in the gravel first? JUST KIDDING lol.

First, how big of a deal is it going to be to source the parts to finish it up? I am obviously missing the body and a few screws, nuts and e-clips.

Second question is about how much is the kit as is worth? It's a later kit, so I'm not sure how sought after it is.

And last for now, can somebody school me on the difference between the original tranny and the stealth tranny. One of the biggest hassles of the Kyoshos was the crazy transmission setup where you could only change the pinion. I never paid attention to the RC10 gearboxes because I was envious of the gearing options...

-Rob

[THUNDERSTRIKE1]

I have two of those one a runner the other was mint til the guy drilled 11 holes to mount the battery diagonal in the chassis.Just wish i could find a new chassis for it to be my first shelf queen lol.Don

[rctenracer]

You can down load the manual from the A&E site. The body and all the parts you need are availible from tower.

[robf]

You can down load the manual from the A&E site. The body and all the parts you need are availible from tower.

ORLY? I found the manual, but didn't know about new parts from tower! Are there different bodies for the different year/kits? If new parts are available, does that mean new-old parts are not that interesting?

-Rob

[delsami]

buy the viper body. it is similar to the body you are missing. the missing body is called protech II and is discontinued/rare UNFORTUNATELY.

[DerbyDan]

Looks like you've done well

That looks like one of the very last of the CE gold pan cars, judging by the black parts & the plastic shock tops - I believe these were still being sold along side its successor the B2? These late cars might have been supplied with the Viper bodyshell anyway? [not sure]

Only a few parts are still available new for the RC10 (from Tower Hobbies) Most of the ones you need I think are still available thanks to the fact that there are some generic parts that crossed over into later cars (fixings, stealth gearbox & shock parts) Although these parts are available doesn't detract from the fact that as a new-built, your car is still worth a decent amount to an RC10 enthusiast

The clue is in the name with comparing the difference between the 6 gear & Stealth transmissions - the Stealth simply has three gears running from the drive outputs to the spur layshaft with the idler in-between, The ball diff is in the bottom gear. A six gear transmission has two sets of three gears running either side of a central plate (each set of gears individually driving each wheel) The drives for one of the top gears run through the other & the differential action is taken care of through the spur gear (which makes changing the spur a right pain) The Stealth has far fewer moving parts & therefore is more efficient, it also frees up the spur gear for the fitting of a slipper clutch

[robf]

Thanks for the info Dan. Any rough guess as to what is fair to ask for the kit? If it's a good chunk of change, I probably will sell as is and put the money into getting my vintage kyoshos up and running again.

-Rob

[Toasted Coastie]

Not to be that guy but, no one will answer the question of "what is it worth":

http://www.rc10talk.com/viewtopic.php?f=54&t=7465

It's worth what someone will pay for it. Look around on eBay, you may get an idea....

[robf]

Ah ok. Fair enough. I guess what I would need are examples of recent sales that match what I have. The problem for me, I have no real way to know what has value and what doesn't; for example missing the original body, having a late model "c" tub, sealed original motor/SC, etc.

-Rob

[robf]

Another question I had was if it a good/bad idea to use a quality fine automotive polish on the anodized pan?

Thanks,
Rob

[jwscab]

i wouldn't try and mess with the anodized finish. soap and water and maybe a stiff brush to get gunk off. you can use acetone or wd40 to remove sticker/tape residue, but nothing abrasive.......