T2 buggy build
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T2 buggy build
Picked up a T2 chassis on ebay. So far I filled the two holes on the side with jb weld. Cleaned up the chassis . The front bulk head is new . Cleaned up the trans and installed new diff balls , rings ,and out drives. Also mount the klien arms and new rpm mini bumper. The chassis has some wear on the bottom . Looks to have been run on carpet.The wheel base is about 1/2 inch longer than a gold tub. Going to use a B3 body on it from tower mounted with velcro.Still alot to do.
- scr8p
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Re: T2 buggy build
Just depends what you’re gonna do with it I guess. If you’re just gonna shelf it or run it in the road I think longer looks cooler. If you’re going to race it you may want to think again. It may surprise you though. R/C cars always surprise me. It’s amazing to think that little things like down force, suspension and wheelbase make such a difference at that scale. Makes it a lot more fun though.rctenracer wrote:Good question. Never gave wheel base a thaught.

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Re: T2 buggy build
the main reason i bring it up is that your not gonna find a body long enough to cover the front. to me, it looks funny.
but it's super simple to shorten the t2 tub to A, B, and C tub length. the nose plate, buggy (old style) or truck, has 2 sets of mounting points, so either one can be used to do it. simply attach the nose plate to the t2 tub using the front 3 holes (for the shortest wheelbase). you can now use the 3 mounting points towards the back of the nose plate as a drill template, and the holes will be exactly where you need them.
once drilled, you can cut the front 7/16" (i believe) off the front of the tub. one cool thing about the t2 tub is there are 2 mounting holes for the nose brace tubes. the front one will be removed when you shorten the tub, but the rear one is exactly where you'll need it.
you will need to locate the servo further back aswell, but that's just a couple more holes. and shorten up a pair of nose brace tubes.
but it's super simple to shorten the t2 tub to A, B, and C tub length. the nose plate, buggy (old style) or truck, has 2 sets of mounting points, so either one can be used to do it. simply attach the nose plate to the t2 tub using the front 3 holes (for the shortest wheelbase). you can now use the 3 mounting points towards the back of the nose plate as a drill template, and the holes will be exactly where you need them.
once drilled, you can cut the front 7/16" (i believe) off the front of the tub. one cool thing about the t2 tub is there are 2 mounting holes for the nose brace tubes. the front one will be removed when you shorten the tub, but the rear one is exactly where you'll need it.

you will need to locate the servo further back aswell, but that's just a couple more holes. and shorten up a pair of nose brace tubes.

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Re: T2 buggy build
Another option would be to design a 2 piece body of some sort(so it can be extended). Not sure what direction to go with that idea, but there might be something cool that can be done.scr8p wrote:the main reason i bring it up is that your not gonna find a body long enough to cover the front.

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Ken
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Re: T2 buggy build
Hugger went mental on a bag of Pecan Sandies!treehugger wrote:well i had no problem finding a body to fit my T2



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- metallicats33
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Re: T2 buggy build
If you can get your hands on a Kyosho Triumph body, I think that will cover the length of the car and it should fit on the RC10 chassis with little mod.scr8p wrote:the main reason i bring it up is that your not gonna find a body long enough to cover the front. to me, it looks funny.
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Re: T2 buggy build
Well I decided to cut down the chassis. Here is a pic of what I have so far. I will strip it down and take it to work. While the boss is away I have a whole shop to use, band saw , drill press, counter sinks, the works. Thanks for the info scr8p.scr8p wrote:the main reason i bring it up is that your not gonna find a body long enough to cover the front. to me, it looks funny.
but it's super simple to shorten the t2 tub to A, B, and C tub length. the nose plate, buggy (old style) or truck, has 2 sets of mounting points, so either one can be used to do it. simply attach the nose plate to the t2 tub using the front 3 holes (for the shortest wheelbase). you can now use the 3 mounting points towards the back of the nose plate as a drill template, and the holes will be exactly where you need them.
once drilled, you can cut the front 7/16" (i believe) off the front of the tub. one cool thing about the t2 tub is there are 2 mounting holes for the nose brace tubes. the front one will be removed when you shorten the tub, but the rear one is exactly where you'll need it.
you will need to locate the servo further back aswell, but that's just a couple more holes. and shorten up a pair of nose brace tubes.
- longboardnj
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Re: T2 buggy build
i always like the t2 buggy set up...did anyone ever give the long wheelbase a try??
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Re: T2 buggy build
carloco8 built one and kept the long wheel base. i can't seem to find a build thread of it though. maybe he didn't have one, and just inserted pics of it into different threads.
but here's another one. http://www.rc10talk.com/viewtopic.php?f=36&t=2398
but here's another one. http://www.rc10talk.com/viewtopic.php?f=36&t=2398
- longboardnj
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Re: T2 buggy build
thanks... the t2/t2 buggy is always nice to seescr8p wrote:carloco8 built one and kept the long wheel base. i can't seem to find a build thread of it though. maybe he didn't have one, and just inserted pics of it into different threads.
but here's another one. http://www.rc10talk.com/viewtopic.php?f=36&t=2398
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Re: T2 buggy build
I was to busy at work to cut the chassis down. I did get the B44 cvd's assembled and mounted them in the GT carriers. Slipped on the rear tires to see what it might look like finished . Here is a comparison of wheel bases next to my B3.
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Re: T2 buggy build
Looks good.
I am thinking about the extra wheel base,
it may actually be better for the more powerful motors these days.
May help keep the front down a little more.
Just a thought.
I am thinking about the extra wheel base,
it may actually be better for the more powerful motors these days.
May help keep the front down a little more.
Just a thought.
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