My Pro Radiant

[JHarris]

Basicly the mission series of schumacher car have that drive setup that radiant uses
Belt from motor to reardiff and then long belt to frontdiff hm that really give some ideas.
Longer belts and metric diffs hm .....

If i just had an radiant to try on.

mvh Isobarik

If only I had the Shuey Mission parts to try......

[GJW]

but it just aint a radiant any more though is it!!

[isobarik]

Nip in sweden are like 120 dollar for front/rear complete diffs.

mvh Isobarik

[RETRO R/C]

Hey Jeff,

Here is a thread I started ages ago about a car that I got in a parts lot form a good mate who I used to race against in the old days. Its half a belt drive at least!! Its been cleaned up alot and should be running by the end of the year I hope.

http://www.rc10talk.com/viewtopic.php?f=33&t=4692

MAybe it will give you some ideas.

Cheers

Darryn

[Bormac]

Dont worry Jeff, I have already packed my belt conversion parts in with your spares care package im sending you. Before long you'll only need the belts.

[JHarris]

Darryn,

The thing that sticks out most to me in that thread is one statement- "Im a racer". I love it! That's my perspective on things too, which is why I didn't cringe one bit at giving away RC10 boxes, Novak 1 esc's and a ton of other stuff. I have about 10 RC10's and 1 is un-run and built out of the box. I only have that one because it came to me that way. The rest, each will be or has been re-anodized and is or will be a runner. I too am a racer!!! Always have been; always will be. The Pro Radiant hybrids I will build are meant to be raced. That's why I want to convert the driveline to something that I can get parts for in case of breakage. I'd keep it chain drive if there was an endless supply of parts, but having just broke an outdrive with no replacements I know all too well how important it is to have spares. I want to keep the basic car the same, but the high wear/high stress items will need to be readily available.

Bormac- thank you very much!!!!!

The carbon frame rails, shock towers and radio tray should be cut within the next week or two, depending on how busy the machinist is at the moment. I will have a saddle pack chassis made as well. The cad drawings are done but I will want to tweak the design slightly before I have them cut. I may have one made from balsa wood first, just to see what I want to change. Now if someone has info on having arms molded, I'm listening!

[isobarik]

Nimrod is making parts for the dynastorm and maybe maybe theire carbon stuff is awsome really sexy.
Otherwise have them machined should be an easy task for dynotech for an example, they made some arms for me to my lazer cars I can still get them but its getting harder and harder so i just want an option when im running out of spares and having the arms machined is meaning that i have one problem less to worry about.

mvh Isobarik

[Jay Dub]

I did allot of RD on the schumacher mission series of cars. And there was a reason we went away from the long belt connecting the two differentials of the car. If you are going to change it, why not run a short belt to the rear, and a long belt to the front from the layshaft only. I am not positive, but I should think the Lazer series of component from Kyosho would be a good place to start. There are plenty of spares about, and I would bet there are enough readily available parts already manufactured for some other car. my .02c -Jeff

[JHarris]

but it just aint a radiant any more though is it!!

I said it before and I'll say it again; The reason I want to convert the driveline is parts availability. If you have a secret stash of diff parts and chains I'll happily buy them and make each car I build as authentic as possible since they are more than capable in the stock configuration. Absent a supply of original parts it will have to be converted. The Pro Radiant I have now will remain completely stock. It is only the ones I will build from the custom carbon parts and NIP parts bags I have that will be driven differently.

[murphy3428]

Looking at my pro a little closer I see that going the single belt direction might not work unless you change the position of the drive shaft, looks like you would need to raise the drive shaft location to make it over the motor

[JHarris]

Yeah, I looked at that this weekend. The other option would be to raise the motor, or lower the bottom of the drive pulleys. There's a lot to consider. I haven't put more than about 5 minutes of total thought into it so far. I've just been too busy with other projects. I can outsource things like carbon cutting or metal machining, but I don't know where to turn for plastic molding. Maybe if there's a vendor that can reproduce the diff housings reasonably, keeping the car as it is could be an option. Or, molding belt grooves instead of chain teeth onto the housings..... This is open to group thought!!! I really don't care where the idea comes from as long as it works. I just want to see people have the ability to run their Pro Radiants without fear of driveline failure!

[AYKBOBCAT]

Check this old thread.... In there you have a picture of the parts that need to be machined to convert a Radiant to belt. The same would work for the Pro I guess. I found the picts on a japanese group loooong ago and could not understand anything other than the picture. So I can't say more that this... But I think that's the way to go...

http://www.rc10talk.com/viewtopic.php?f=33&t=7973

Also notice the suspension arms...

[JHarris]

I think Murphy is checking into these parts. He sent me those pics before. I like that set up. I also like the fact that with the diffs being aluminum they can be machined to allow for a larger diameter outdrive if needed. Worst case scenario I think I could machine outdrives myself from some stainless round bar.

[murphy3428]

Check this old thread.... In there you have a picture of the parts that need to be machined to convert a Radiant to belt. The same would work for the Pro I guess. I found the picts on a japanese group loooong ago and could not understand anything other than the picture. So I can't say more that this... But I think that's the way to go...

http://www.rc10talk.com/viewtopic.php?f=33&t=7973

Also notice the suspension arms...

Actually Jeff and I have already been looking into this I also had this thread but I only have pics now I did find an option for the differentials atleast a partial option they will need to be machined the rest of the way

[jwscab]

SPD-SI has MXL pulley material than can be machined. I'm sure there are others. the tough part would be the other diff components, I will agree. the radiant has comparatively small diff parts due to the small diameter.

as far as arms go, they could be easily reproduced with nylon or delrin material sheet, since they are relatively simple shapes.

the rear bulkheads could also be machined relatively easily with the same/similar sheet.

the tough part of that buggy is the front bulkhead, but that could also be made differently than how it was molded. you could more or less make 2 front bulkheads like the rears, and creatively reconstruct a nose.

this gets into that grey area where you have to justify if all the work is worth it. I find this dilemna all the time in lots of things I do.