RC10 B1.5 - Build #1 and #2
- scr8p
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Re: RC10 B1.5
oh ya, it definately wouldn't be a drop in piece. but, it would be kinda cool to make it work.
i'll most likely just stick with the t2, mainly because when it's built, i'd like for it to look like something that associated could've come out with. with how many of the rc10t, gt, and t2 parts are shared, i don't think what i'll come up with is gonna be too far off from what could've been.
i'll most likely just stick with the t2, mainly because when it's built, i'd like for it to look like something that associated could've come out with. with how many of the rc10t, gt, and t2 parts are shared, i don't think what i'll come up with is gonna be too far off from what could've been.
- MOmo
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Re: RC10 B1.5
Jason,
I was looking at my old T2 chassis and some parts from a team car and started thinking hybrid too. Sadly, but T2 trans sounds crunchy and in need of a re-build and im slowly getting a workbench together. I also am not equipped to drill new holes yet, but i thought about it.
Can't wait to follow this one!
MOmo
I was looking at my old T2 chassis and some parts from a team car and started thinking hybrid too. Sadly, but T2 trans sounds crunchy and in need of a re-build and im slowly getting a workbench together. I also am not equipped to drill new holes yet, but i thought about it.
Can't wait to follow this one!
MOmo
- scr8p
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Re: RC10 B1.5
as with most of my builds, i had to dig deep to find the build thread.
alright, so i got some more work done to this. i finally got some new countersinks, so i was able to finish off shortening the chassis, and got the holes all done. new servo holes, and i countersunk the 4 nose brace tube screw holes (tub and nose), the 2 holes for the side of the rear bulkhead, and the 2 holes on the motor guard where it attaches to the motor plate.
the nose plate i'm using is new....... never used. i got it from an old racing budy a couple years ago. he had cut off a portion of it (why i don't know) so it was pretty much worthless for an original build. for this car, it really didn't matter. so, i cut off the other side and cleaned it up a bit just to make it even. the front lip where the braces attach didn't seem to have enough of a bend in it. so i tossed it in the sheet metal break and tweaked it back a little more. now the nose brace tubes fit nicely with no pressure on them what so ever.
i also had to shorten the t2 battery brace because of shortening the chassis.
last week, i talked with bscotti about turning my pencil drawing/tracing of the custom "worlds looking" rear shock tower into a CAD drawing. so it's on the way to him as i type this. when it's done, i talked with atlas about cutting it for me out of carbon fiber, being as though i want to use one of his .89 front shock tower and would like them to match. so, in a couple weeks (maybe, i'm not real sure), i should be able to update this thread with pics of the new shock towers.
alright, so i got some more work done to this. i finally got some new countersinks, so i was able to finish off shortening the chassis, and got the holes all done. new servo holes, and i countersunk the 4 nose brace tube screw holes (tub and nose), the 2 holes for the side of the rear bulkhead, and the 2 holes on the motor guard where it attaches to the motor plate.
the nose plate i'm using is new....... never used. i got it from an old racing budy a couple years ago. he had cut off a portion of it (why i don't know) so it was pretty much worthless for an original build. for this car, it really didn't matter. so, i cut off the other side and cleaned it up a bit just to make it even. the front lip where the braces attach didn't seem to have enough of a bend in it. so i tossed it in the sheet metal break and tweaked it back a little more. now the nose brace tubes fit nicely with no pressure on them what so ever.
i also had to shorten the t2 battery brace because of shortening the chassis.
last week, i talked with bscotti about turning my pencil drawing/tracing of the custom "worlds looking" rear shock tower into a CAD drawing. so it's on the way to him as i type this. when it's done, i talked with atlas about cutting it for me out of carbon fiber, being as though i want to use one of his .89 front shock tower and would like them to match. so, in a couple weeks (maybe, i'm not real sure), i should be able to update this thread with pics of the new shock towers.
- RichieRich
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Re: RC10 B1.5
Jason, I am having a horrible time trying to find proper countersinks. What are you using? Can you provide a part number?
Nice work too!
Nice work too!
- jwscab
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Re: RC10 B1.5
try looking for 'countersink bit' in mcmaster.com. You can pick what countersink angle you want when you select a particular one. Something like a 3/8" diameter or so should be good for the #8 screws. I don't know the angle.....
- scr8p
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Re: RC10 B1.5
the 8-32 screws are 100 degree. all of the other flat head 4-40 screws are 82 degree.
82 degree countersinks can be easily found at a local hardwood store. the one i just picked up its a 3/8" with 5 flutes. the 100 degree is a 1/2" 6 flute, but i got that from a friend of my dad. otherwise, i would've had to get one through mcmaster or somewhere like that.
82 degree countersinks can be easily found at a local hardwood store. the one i just picked up its a 3/8" with 5 flutes. the 100 degree is a 1/2" 6 flute, but i got that from a friend of my dad. otherwise, i would've had to get one through mcmaster or somewhere like that.
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- scr8p
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Re: RC10 B1.5
brian got to work on my worlds inspired t2 rear tower, taking my pencil drawing to a CAD rendering. it'll mount right up to the t2 bulkhead, but won't be any higher off the tub than a standard buggy tower. so, there won't have to be any type of "creative cutting" when it comes time to mount a body. once it's finalized, it'll be off to atlas to be cut out of CF along with one of his .89 CF front towers.
thanks again for the help, yokie!
thanks again for the help, yokie!
- scr8p
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Re: RC10 B1.5
you'd have to cut up an rc10 bulkhead a BUNCH to make it work. it would end up just looking like a hack job.
- jwscab
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Re: RC10 B1.5
nah, i meant if you use that tower you drew up, you could use a t2 buklhead, which might be easier to find than the older rc10 bulkheads for other future builds, since the old bulkheads are made anymore. I'm pretty sure the mounting holes for the bulkhead are the same on the chassis. I have a gt bulkhead, that mounts to a gold tub no problem, but doesn't have the material to connect to the side rails of the chassis, where a T2 one does.
although I took a quick look, the T2 bulkhead is probably harder to find than the old rc10 standard one these days, since they too are obsolete. so I spoke before I looked.....
this is going to be really cool when finished! any specific reason you decided to go with the standard front end vs a 'worlds' narrow one?
although I took a quick look, the T2 bulkhead is probably harder to find than the old rc10 standard one these days, since they too are obsolete. so I spoke before I looked.....
this is going to be really cool when finished! any specific reason you decided to go with the standard front end vs a 'worlds' narrow one?
- scr8p
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Re: RC10 B1.5
to use a t2 bulkhead on an older buggy, you'd have to mount the shock tower on the backside of it. other than that, you should be able to use it. your tie rods would be on quite an angle, too. probably need to make some sort of stand off like the older traxxas vehicles to get them more inline. but like you said, they're actually harder to come by than the original bulkhead.
i was really up in the air about which front end i wanted to go with. but then i thought....... the rc10t and t2 share the same front end for the most part. same goes for the rear with the arms, hub carriers, etc. so, i figured i'd just go with the original rc10 front end and rear suspension. i will be using the .89 front shocks on it with the taller tower from atlas, so it'll be a little more modern than say the worlds car. i don't remember the threaded shock bodies being an option for the b2, but i want to use them on this.
i was really up in the air about which front end i wanted to go with. but then i thought....... the rc10t and t2 share the same front end for the most part. same goes for the rear with the arms, hub carriers, etc. so, i figured i'd just go with the original rc10 front end and rear suspension. i will be using the .89 front shocks on it with the taller tower from atlas, so it'll be a little more modern than say the worlds car. i don't remember the threaded shock bodies being an option for the b2, but i want to use them on this.
- slotcarrod
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Re: RC10 B1.5
This is coming along nice and is going to be good! The AE threaded shocks came out at the end of the T3 era, but there was another shop that made them before that. They took stock AE shock bodies and cut threads in them and made a collar! They were very nice but I can't remember the name of the shop!
Rod Littau
Slotcarrod's Rumpus Room: http://www.rc10talk.com/viewtopic.php?f=77&t=16113
25 Years of the RC10: http://www.rc10talk.com/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=13059
Slotcarrod's Rumpus Room: http://www.rc10talk.com/viewtopic.php?f=77&t=16113
25 Years of the RC10: http://www.rc10talk.com/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=13059
- longboardnj
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Re: RC10 B1.5
i still feel bad about you cuttin the chassis but you saying that makes me feel a little better about it...before you make that rear tower what are you doing about a rear body mount ?? if you use the stock tower you can mount a plate across the stock rear body monuts and mount a post in the center like stock.. just a thought... i really like that you used the buggy front end... lookin goodi doubt a battery will ever go in this car once it's done anyway.
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