All the cool kids are doing it so I figured I should too
This is a jrx-pro chassis cut down to fit an rc-10 nose plate. Only a few more parts and it should be ready to go
The overall length is just about the same as the short wheelbase jrx-2 chassis, but with the relatively swept back rc-10 short arm suspension, it should have the same wheelbase as a scorcher ~10".
Just so I don't cause any heart palpitations, the chassis was trashed up front before I cut it:
a little bit of quick frankenstein work. Rear of my vonats JRX-2, front of my runner 6-gear goldie, and the body off my daughters blitzer beetle.
Wheelbase came out to 9 9/16" just about right.
Not exactly sure where to put the steering servo. also considering making longer nose tubes and using GT tube braces.
Very innovative, great idea to resurrect a typical broken Losi chassis and help it back to life with an Associated stock nose piece for structural integrity.
Sweet little bug. Mine is probably my favorite runner of the bunch, they turn on a dime, wheelie, just a fun little cars. 5 link makes it look so short. I was kinda skeptical about the stacked style servo mount like most others as well as mine have, but has works just fine.
aconsola wrote: also considering making longer nose tubes and using GT tube braces.
Yeah it looks as if you better do something. One good smack and I bet that baby will fold without some additional support. Really cool rig though. This is an inspiration for me to use stuff in my parts box!
some more progres. I blatently copied the nose plate braces from somebody. I can't find the original thread where I saw it, so I am not sure who though, but thanks!
The small 9601 servo fits perfectly, with the rear servo mount flush with the lipo pack. A new style Pure tech strap without the front cross members seems like it was made for this application.
The only modification to any parts other than the chassis plate so far was triming the flair off the battery side of the RPM servo mount, and drilling the nose plate front holes out very slightly for clearance for the 3mm turnbuckle.
next task is to figure out body mounts. Then I've got to come up with parts so I can put the other 2 cars back together
its getting there.i like it.im thinking of doing the same whit an old traxxas ive got.i just ca figure out what wheel to use.that new proline 1/10 bug body is looking good.
I agree with the front body post idea, it's seems pretty simple to run the mounts straight through the front supporting turn buckles. Try the RPM RC10T (short) mounts, they should thread up perfectly. Stock original RC10T rear mounts should be easy to mount up to any rear shock tower without much trouble...
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Projects and shelfers: Late Edinger, RC10B2, Dual Sport, GT, Kyosho Turbo Ultima, Triumph, Tamiya Sand Scorcher, Blackfoot/Monster Beetle, '67 Beetle, Nikko Rhino, Traxxas Fiero, Slash, Hand-built Dune Buggy..all on here somewhere...
Thanks for the suggestions, I tried the stock 10-t front body mount, but the angles didn't work out well.
Up front I used a JG jrx-2 monster truck conversion body mount that was cut down by the prior owner. All I had to was drill a pair of holes. An original/uncut jg piece is pictured in front of the car.
At the rear I used plain old aluminum "L." I was going to use a stock JRX-T body mount, but do not have any long enough, and the mounting position would put the holes in the middle of the rear window which I do not like to do If I can avoid it.
The body posts are bolink and the shell is a mrlexan re-issue bolink.
The body has to sit a lot higher than I anticipated to be able to have clearance for fully compressed suspension. I have it set so that the bottom of the body is parallel with the chassis plate, and it ends up about 1" above the plate with minimal tire rub at full compression.
