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I picked up this Stadium Blitzer on Ebay recently. Due to me not paying close enough attention to the pictures, I didn't notice just how many new parts it would need. So it goes without saying that I definitely overpaid for it. Screenshot_20210716-131328_Gallery.jpg No point in crying about it. So I...

Got the chassis assembled, again with all new hardware. 20210717_152239.jpg I had a new set of steering arms laying around, so I decided to use them as well. I also drilled a new hole in the battery post to allow the clip to be placed at 90°. 20210717_161402.jpg I got more parts on order, so that'll...

Well, what's most important is that it's your car so build it your way. I can fully appreciate the desire to keep the car 100% "AE" but there's no shame in venturing outside the brand to resolve a problem. If the Traxxas spur will fit then, by all means, feel free to use it. :wink: That i...

Before spending $30 for a parts tree to get another crack prone piece, I did a little experimenting. I removed the unsupported (crack prone) section of the tower with a belt sander. I then drilled and through tapped it to M3. I then moved the brace to the inside of the shocks and attached everything...

I don't know about finding the correct offset. But if you figure in different hex thicknesses and different wheel offsets, you have lots of options. But I just checked, original Traxxas pin mount wheel are cheap. The original white dish wheels are $4 a set and the chrome spokes are $8 a set. The whi...

This is from the RC10 Classic manual. It even has a 19T listed.
I'm about to put a 19T Radon in a six gear car. I planned on starting with 81/18, 48P gears.

Keep in mind that early RC10 tires are shorter than modern 2.2 tires, changing the effective gearing.

Got some parts and hardware in, so I was able to do a little. Final revision of the rear tower. Ran 40mm long screws through the front and secured the rear with Tamiya 5mm ball connectors (female thread). Those same connectors are used at all shock ends and camber links. 20210724_192621.jpg I had pl...

I decided to change the tires and wheels. The rears are chrome versions of the Beetle wheels with new tires. The fronts are chrome Scorpion wheels with JConcepts Rips for a RC10. The front tires are sooooo much better than the originals. Screenshot_20210725-140150_Gallery.jpg For some reason, the la...

Citristrip works as well.

I normally use Citristrip to remove the bulk of it, then soak in acetone to remove tougher spots.

Made a esc shelf from some aluminum flat bar.
And got it all wired up. The wiring actually looks cleaner in person, there just didn't seem to be a good picture angle.

XLR8 wrote: ↑Fri Jul 30, 2021 10:19 pm I forgot to ask but is there a cover for the Blitzer chassis tub to prevent it filling with dirt?

I think that there may have been some at one time but nothing that I know of now.

But it actually isn't too bad. Compared to my 10T's, the tub is rather tall.

The 6565 is the correct case for app early 2.25 Stealth vehicles. The Worlds re-re used a different case and idler gear but the early parts are generally considered better. As to the packaging, who knows? Saying that they were inconsistent would be an understatement. Being inconsistent is probably w...

Got it all painted up and decals on.

The body is done in Duratrax mellow yellow, backed in white and then black. The driver is done in Tamiya brilliant blue, backed in silver.

I guess everything is bigger in Texas.

Now I'm gonna hang my head and go watch my 58" tv.

The Tekin switch probably has the most correct look.

I have the three wire Hobbywing switch on one of mine (the Tekin was out of stock everywhere at the time). I just cut the third wire off. Its actually a nice switch and it mounts face up.