RC10Talk - The Net's Largest Vintage R/C Community

Just opened mine today, now that I've shelved the A stamp rebuild for the time being. I think I got a "good" kit as I saw another poster here who had a 'good' kit said their packing slip was dated 17 March, and mine is dated 20 March. No oil leakage, and I just measured my top shaft at 13....

Not sure what it is about this Tamiya chassis...but I really want one. I'm still on the fence between the Mini Monte Carlo '94 kit and this one. I remember these cars from when i was a kid...I think my dad may have even had one in the Bahama Blue Metallic Clear Coat with a grey cloth interior. You m...

Ok, so I think I've got everything I'll need to finally rebuild my vintage gold chassis. I am debating between using wide arms or keeping it stock. Any thoughts one way or the other? I am definitely going to run this car, so I'm less concerned about it being a 'perfect' restoration...its more of a '...

I've got two, NIB. Sold one already. I thought it would be the greatest thing to have one re-re built and a vintage runner (which I'm still working on), but I haven't been bitten by the need to assemble a Classic. Then the World's car re-re happened, and its pretty much everything I'd want on a runn...

Finally got everything disassembled so I could clean the nylon parts: -3.jpg Noticed that the shock ends on the rear shocks had a crack on them: -5.jpg Are replacements even available? Is the 'bay my friend here? I suppose I could wait until the re-re parts come out. I now have a bin of nylon parts ...

Ahhh, yeah, I hadn't thought of that...need to work up the gumption to try... I have a pair of small ones that should work nicely. Thanks gomachv!

Thanks for the info on the shock lengths! I have a drill guide to drill out the chassis for the Stealth holes. I am working in disassembling everything to clean, but it's been quite a while since I worked in one of these...does anyone have a suggestion on removing the roll pin from the top shaft in ...

Evening all, I think I'm ready to embark on this adventure called RC10 rebuilding...I have collected most of what I think I'll need to get started on the rebuild of a gold A stamp Cadillac RC10 (suggestions or suggested changes always welcome!!). I am going to go with wide A arms, a Stealth tranny a...

Update: I have received one set of wheels so far, which look to be in decent shape, all things considered: jellybean_front1.jpg The tires even have some decent tread left on them...should make good display wheels after I scrub them clean and do a hydrogen peroxide bath: jelly_bean_closeup.jpg I'm st...

That's a nice car! I recently came into a similar condition one but with the wider arms. I refuse to drill holes in mine, but you will need a #31 drill (.120") if you decide to do yours. Thanks jasond, I appreciate the note about the drill size I'll need. The chassis has been scratched up quit...

Thanks jwscab, I don't know why I didn't put JC Racing, it was in your previous reply (d'oh!) Since I will mostly be running this in the street, are there recommended tires? And does anyone have a drill bit recommendation for drilling out the Stealth trans. holes? Also, I've read a couple threads he...

Alright, I'm going with that it is a pretty standard, run-of-the-mill Cadillac version. For a minute after I received it I was a bit disappointed because the front left steering knuckle was missing the hinge pin, but I luckily I found it in the box before I tossed it. I missed that there was one E-c...

Good evening, I'm new to vintage RC10 buggies, though I had an original RC10T when I was a kid. Now I'm looking to get back into R/C cars, focusing on 'vintage' kits (re-re's) and restorations/rebuilds. I've heard this is the place to come with questions, to meet knowledgeable people, and to learn m...