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If you have to sand the edges or something do it ahead of time, because you can expose the natural color if the dye doesn't penetrate very deep. Obviously it wasn't a problem because the screw head covered, but I've had this happen when I countersunk holes in a dyed shock tower.

DMAT wrote:

clm wrote:Or, as on the t2, placed a spacer under the rearmost one to raise it up to be level.

Chris

This is what I'm doing, just adding a washer under it.

The Classic manual calls for two #4 aluminum washers, seems to work fine.

Not that I want to see his products go away or anything but I can't believe nobody has sent eBay a copyright infringement notice.

What does the original body look like painted? What was it for? I originally thought with would be about a super-size Dodge Viper body lol

I have dyed shock towers black, it just takes a long time to soak up the dye, much longer than nylon.

I forgot they shipped using the USPS, so it won't be coming today obviously.

I really want a media blasting cabinet, but I'm trying to move house this summer, maybe even move states (or at least be ready), so maybe a handheld blaster might be an easier thing to handle.

How much is an 'acceptable' powder coating or anodizing job?

Sounds like the AMC Pacer.

No body mounts today, Monday I'm sure.

Those wheels look really good. Adhesive Monokote could be used for all kinds of stuff like that.

I picked up a new Protech body on eBay ($12 w/free shipping), so I'll give that one a try. This time I'll get it cut and centered on the chassis first, then drill for the body posts and wing tubes. Mounting bodies is by far my least favorite part of this hobby. I have a set of Team CRP truck body mo...

I checked the shock by hand before I took it off, the Sharpie mark is right about 1/8" below the stock hole.

Apparently at some point I bought a tub and buggy nose off eBay (recently too, surprised the heck out of me when I found it in my bin), and it looked like it had been stripped and painted metallic blue. Has anybody had success stripping the chassis to bare metal and using various spray paints to coa...

I think a spacer to fill up the void between the 3/8x5/8 outdrive support bearing and the end of the case would be handy. I already stuck mine back together but I think the depth is about 0.045".

My rear wheels do seem pretty sloppy, but it's so far down on the list of issues I haven't even looked at it. I haven't had the time this past week, my nephew was in town and it's like chasing a monkey around the house with him there, but when I do I plan to put together an email to Associated about...

Qualitywise, my opinion, completely unimpressed. The 'Part of the Fun' is BS, an original kit was better- Its faults were due to 30 year old technology. No excuse now: What, folks are seriously thinking (And saying) AE purposely made imprecise parts, bad anodizing, bad chassis stamping/bending/coun...

Heim joint? I just learned something new today. I just realized my front shocks were binding too and spinning the joint 180 degrees fixed it. Also, I built the rear shocks with the 3 spacers. It appears that if you don't use the limiters, the travel is stopped by the dogbone? Yeah that's how I bent...