RC10Talk - The Net's Largest Vintage R/C Community

I've always liked these for my non-r/c connectors........ http://www.deutschconnector.com/products/deutsch_dt_2-way_connectors.html The plug is a seperate P/N than the receptacle. Just scroll down. The plug is shown below the receptacle. They're rated at 13amps. I don't know if thats enough for your...

Here's a few links.......

http://www.rc10talk.com/viewtopic.php?f=36&t=9813

http://www.rc10talk.com/viewtopic.php?f=36&t=10893

You know, that last idea sounds like a pretty cool one Jake! PM comin' your way....

The 10T has the same motorplate as the RC10 buggy, so M_vice's B4 cover mod will work for the T. Other choices are these clear lexan reproductions as a direct replacement for the original 10/10T covers... http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=280404927048&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:I...

Thanks guys for the kind words! 8) The two of you have both done many custom touches to your rides that make me drool aswell... :mrgreen: :mrgreen: I'm gonna give the powder coater a call today and see what the status is. This waiting game is drivin' me crazy!! :lol: As soon as I get this stuff back...

I too have used the CA method. I just put CA in the hole, put the screw as far in as neccesary, then once it dried I removed it to sort of "mold" new threads into the glue. It has worked for me many times and held up well. :D I thought I read in an RCCA tech tip article a long time ago tha...

Yamaha went to EFI on the '10 450.... Damon Bradshaw's brother.. Zack, right? I always thought he'd make a good pro, never saw him up there though. I thought he ripped in the amature ranks?.?. Congratulations to your son Rod!! It's a lot of effort to make it at the national ranks. I hope his success...

I used the Miller dynasty 350.... http://www.millerwelds.com/products/tig/dynasty_350/

I don't have constant access to it. My good friend uses these at his work and he lets me come in after hours sometimes when I need to weld aluminum.

Thanks Rick! I sent them in last week. I expect them any day now...

I started my own thread about my builds so I don't hi-jack this one anymore.....

http://www.rc10talk.com/viewtopic.php?f=36&t=16562

The T2 chassis and stock buggy nose plate were the 2 that actually needed repair, not just welded for cosmetic reasons... Before shot of the T2.... This truck was definitely abused before I got it. Lots of random extra holes needed filling. It was also ran in the long wheelbase position. Not correct...

I figured I'd start my own thread here for these 4 cars I'm building up so I don't keep hi-jacking the other weld thread.... :D http://www.rc10talk.com/viewtopic.php?f=36&t=16531 Once each car build starts, I'll start their own thread for their induvidual progress..... Anyway, I dropped 4 chassi...

Thanks paul. :D That's the look I'm going for. Super clean looking. I'm actually doing them in the neon green like AE used to offer back in the day. I have been obsessed with that color for years and years. Now that you've posted pics of the neon green chassis run you did, and Rick also building a f...

I just finished welding up 4 chassis'. I filled in all the unused holes before I sent them in for powder coat. Because I was powder coating them and not anodizing, I used the 4043 filler like previously mentioned. I only filled two holes in though that had to be redrilled/countersunk. All the others...

If you're getting the CF atlas towers the front is made to use the longer .89" shocks off a B4. Rear should be stock length RC10 - 1.32" with limiters on the shaft to shorten them up a tad...

Oh geez! I was so dead set on it being an off brand MT chassis that I never gave AE a thought.......

Thanks for help Rod!