RC10Talk - The Net's Largest Vintage R/C Community

The T4.2 Big Bores are a direct fit, just need appropriate spacers / shims to shim them away from the tower, etc.

Part # 91315 (front)
Part # 91317 (rear)

OK, so I forgot to install the sensor cable! :lol: Sensor cable installed, also changed out the battery wires for ones a little longer and put some Reedy low profile 4mm bullets on them to plug into the new Reedy lipo packs I have coming. Then time for some fun, gluing up some Panther Rattler clay c...

RS Chris wrote:Lots of "custom work" there. I don't know if I like the rivet the best, or the two piece bulkhead. At least now you can make it right.

Crazy right? Amazing what people will do to things.

Thanks, it really doesn't have much wear and tear, the biggest issue is the rusty turnbuckles and drive shafts, probably from sitting out in a garage or something over the years. I'll clean them up and wipe them down with gun oil and replace anything if needed.

Nice car either way, looks like it's in great condition.

Cool truck, I never owned a GT, just a GT2.

Yesterday after I dug my 10T out of the closet to mess around with it, the mailman brought me another 10T 8) This one I picked up online, it came partially disassembled so he could fit it in the box. I don't know a lot about 10T's, but I'm guessing this is a later model with the newer style black ar...

Yesterday I had some time on my hands so I decided to dig the 10T out of the closet and see what it's gonna need. It is a "B" stamp chassis and it is in pretty nice shape and appears to be all stock and original for the most part, except for the rear body mount setup. Looks like I'll need ...

Definitely sounds like the diff was slipping, I melted a diff gear on my GT2 once, couldn't here it slipping with the motor going. Also, a lot of guys that run castle stuff are under the impression that they need to crank the slipper locknut down all the way. :shock: Seen it over and over again at t...

My RC10 Worlds Car re-release project. http://www.rc10talk.com/viewtopic.php?f=88&t=40284 Pretty much stock kit build with the exception of RPM ball cups and some FT blue aluminum screws. Has Viper body on it because I didn't like the colors of the Turbo Mirage body I painted originally for it. ...

Thanks guys, I was in my teens in the 80's as well and these colors would have probably been mainstream. The purple is a metallic and I wanted it darker and it usually is, but the white backer lightened it up. Also the fluorescent pink ended up bleeding through the white, making that "pinkish&q...

The paint job on the kit body actually came out pretty good, it's just the colors, I don't know what I was thinking... :lol: I also followed the cut lines and ended up trimming the wing by the shocks, which doesn't need to happen. I'll either use it for one of my wife's RC cars or sell it to someone...

Just about done with this build, hoping to hit the track with it this week for some test -n- tune. I ended up screwing up the kit body, by painting it some colors that I did not like, so I used a Viper body that I had. I wanted close to box art, but wasn't expecting perfection. Did the drips by hand...

I put all RPM ball cups on my WC re-re and nothing interferes with anything, the only tight fit was getting the gear cover on, but once it popped into place the ball cups don't hit it. I also didn't use any kind of black grease or chapstick on them, I ran them all the way onto the turnbuckles, then ...

The correct wheels here too; https://www.teamassociated.com/cars_and_trucks/RC10T/Team/parts_accessories/