GoMachV's interpretation of a RC10B1.5 (T2 buggy)
- GoMachV
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GoMachV's interpretation of a RC10B1.5 (T2 buggy)
Been tooling away and its getting close! Thanks Johnny for a couple parts I have been waiting on. The shock towers are not 100% yet, I need to shorten the front a tad and change the rear up for aesthetics. They will also be black G10 on the finished units. The front is a narrowed stock tower from a champ and the rear is a lengthened and widened stock buggy tower. Front arms are Custom Works.
I have always been a builder, not a racer, so I would love to hear opinions on rear geometry. 0, 1.5, or 3 mounts and 0, 1.5, or 3 carriers. Thoughts? I need to order carriers anyway as the white ones are borrowed (sorry vintage RC10 #2)
I have always been a builder, not a racer, so I would love to hear opinions on rear geometry. 0, 1.5, or 3 mounts and 0, 1.5, or 3 carriers. Thoughts? I need to order carriers anyway as the white ones are borrowed (sorry vintage RC10 #2)
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Factory Works website
Factory Works website
- scr8p
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Re: GoMachV's interpretation of a RC10B1.5 (T2 buggy)
i like the front tower.
if you're not "married" to the custom works front arms, i think i'd look for a pair that offer a more inboard shock mounting location. you don't have much droop at all...... right now.
if you're not "married" to the custom works front arms, i think i'd look for a pair that offer a more inboard shock mounting location. you don't have much droop at all...... right now.
- GoMachV
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Re: GoMachV's interpretation of a RC10B1.5 (T2 buggy)
They were a shotgun attempt at arms I was hoping they would be the correct length and didn't even consider the shock pickups. I will probably end up with Klein but was hoping for a more factory look
I was thinking about shortening the front tower just a bit to help with the droop. With the suspension maxxed out the little .71's still have some left in them. So basically my math was off a bit
I was thinking about shortening the front tower just a bit to help with the droop. With the suspension maxxed out the little .71's still have some left in them. So basically my math was off a bit
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Factory Works website
Factory Works website
- scr8p
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Re: GoMachV's interpretation of a RC10B1.5 (T2 buggy)
what's the pin to pin measurement on those arms? i don't have anymore of them lying around to find out.
- GoMachV
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Re: GoMachV's interpretation of a RC10B1.5 (T2 buggy)
Pin to pin is 2.50"
Exactly the same as a Losi "swept" arm...but easier to find
They could stand to be 1/8" shorter tho, unless newer wheels have a offset that would help. I'm very out of touch on new stuff.
Exactly the same as a Losi "swept" arm...but easier to find
They could stand to be 1/8" shorter tho, unless newer wheels have a offset that would help. I'm very out of touch on new stuff.
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Factory Works website
Factory Works website
- Phin
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Re: GoMachV's interpretation of a RC10B1.5 (T2 buggy)
Awesome front tower. If I ever do a WOIN I'd have to bug you for one.
What about modding the kick-up like Jerzi did on his A&L build then mount a B2 front end onto it?
It'd also be pretty cool to cut the rear-end like an RPM Worlds build, and use RPM rear mounts to use B2 rear arms. Or if the rear can't be cut maybe use Losi CR rear arms?
What about modding the kick-up like Jerzi did on his A&L build then mount a B2 front end onto it?
It'd also be pretty cool to cut the rear-end like an RPM Worlds build, and use RPM rear mounts to use B2 rear arms. Or if the rear can't be cut maybe use Losi CR rear arms?
- GoMachV
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Re: GoMachV's interpretation of a RC10B1.5 (T2 buggy)
I like the ideas and have thought about the b2 front and inner rear mods, but for this particular chassis I wanted to keep with mostly off the shelf bolt together pieces.
The tower looks cool, but its really just a stock tower narrowed up. I wanted to keep .71's up front for this one. Now that I have a template they are pretty quick and easy to make.
The tower looks cool, but its really just a stock tower narrowed up. I wanted to keep .71's up front for this one. Now that I have a template they are pretty quick and easy to make.
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Factory Works website
Factory Works website
- jwscab
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Re: GoMachV's interpretation of a RC10B1.5 (T2 buggy)
another option is to spread the tower out a bit at the top. That will make the shocks more upright(less progressive) and improve droop.
- GoMachV
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Re: GoMachV's interpretation of a RC10B1.5 (T2 buggy)
What I did originally is with the shock at rest and the suspension drooped (not far enough) I drew an arc. The I took off the spring and blocked the arm up l the way and drew another arc. That intersection gave me a perfect usable mounting spot. Unfortunately I didn't droop far enough so now I'm needing to redo it a bit. I have a square blank tower that helps when coming up with mounting points. I was shocked when the holes on the buggy tower actually matched my arc made holes. If I spread the tower I will be loosing some meat around the nose brace tube holes so it will take some planning
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Factory Works website
Factory Works website
- uniquenamehere
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Re: GoMachV's interpretation of a RC10B1.5 (T2 buggy)
What are custom works arms?
Looks really great! I actually like the color of the towers!
Looks really great! I actually like the color of the towers!
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Re: GoMachV's interpretation of a RC10B1.5 (T2 buggy)
Customworks Enforcer/Intimatitor GBX GSX. Must have the center lug knocked off though-
- GoMachV
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Re: GoMachV's interpretation of a RC10B1.5 (T2 buggy)
Yup, cleared out the area in between the inner arm "lugs" and also where the caster block fits. Eh, they were $5 and kept me from messing with my swept armsCharlie don't surf wrote:Customworks Enforcer/Intimatitor GBX GSX. Must have the center lug knocked off though-
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Factory Works website
Factory Works website
- GoMachV
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Re: GoMachV's interpretation of a RC10B1.5 (T2 buggy)
I dunno....I almost like the retro tower better. This one works great with the 1.02's as far as travel and adjustability, not sure how it would be on the track. I love the 10t style body Mount so I borrowed that idea as well as the shape and shock mount holes from the one posted on scr8p's thread. It needed a cutout but I just don't know if I like it. Opinions?
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Factory Works website
Factory Works website
- GoMachV
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Re: GoMachV's interpretation of a RC10B1.5 (T2 buggy)
Oh and BTW Charlie, I reread what you said about knocking off the center lug, I misunderstood. These arms had a boss but the lug itself was already gone. They were p/n 3255.
I did clearance them a lot to fit tho. They must chop off most of the lug for whatever this arm fits.
I did clearance them a lot to fit tho. They must chop off most of the lug for whatever this arm fits.
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- scr8p
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Re: GoMachV's interpretation of a RC10B1.5 (T2 buggy)
if your shock mounting points are the same as my tower, i created the bottom row of holes for the 1.18 b4 rear shocks (1.32 top row). the 1.18 body is 3/16" shorter than a 1.32, so that's how much lower the bottom row is from the top.
1.02's will probably work fine, but you'll have to add some uptravel limiters to the shock shafts on the outside to keep the universals from binding in the outdrives during suspension compression.
1.02's will probably work fine, but you'll have to add some uptravel limiters to the shock shafts on the outside to keep the universals from binding in the outdrives during suspension compression.
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