Help me with 5link wiring

[Cpt.America]

So, I'm ready to finish up my wiring on my 5link, and need some help with my novak T4, and motor wiring. Where I have the speedo mounted makes things a bit difficult, but i know iv seen them mounted here before. See picture:

1) The motor wires don't reach the motor, so I will need to use a plug? Modern day deans?

2) The servo wire doesn't reach the receiver, unless it goes straight across the battery. I know I could use an extension, but would a modern day extension fit with a period correct shelf queen?

3) battery plug... should I go modern day deans?

[Coelacanth]

Here are some suggestions:

-Lose the Tamiya connectors for the ESC/motor and solder on some 3.5mm bullet connectors. They have a lot less resistance, are a lot less bulky, are easy to solder, and the biggest reason why I stopped doing that: What do you do if you find your motor rotation is reversed? With bullets, you just disconnect and reconnect them the opposite way to reverse the polarity. With Tamiya connectors, you have to completely disassemble them, reverse the wiring inside, and reassemble them.

-For ESC-to-battery connections, consider EC3 connectors. They're much easier to solder than Deans, almost no chance of shorting the battery leads while soldering, don't require 3 hands to solder, don't need heatshrink, and it's impossible to reverse-connect them--with Deans, it's possible to insert the connectors together enough to short the battery.

Nice, clean car so far!

[highwayracer]

The wire from the ESC doesn't look original...it may have been replaced and shortened by the previous owner. I remember people putting their ESCs on the tower back in the day...it might get you closer to the motor and the receiver.

The other option would be to turn the ESC so that the motor and battery wires are facing the front of the car. You'll get about an inch and a half more on the wire (to the receiver). You can always run a longer wire cominf from the motor.

[slapshot1979]

I agree with both guys, I always mounted the esc on the rear shock tower. and by fluke I was just going thru an old RCCA book and they had a cutout to make your own shelf to mount the esc on the shock tower horizontally. (LMK if you want it). I would solder motor wires direct if you plan on running this motor exclusivly, or go with bullets or Deans are quite common on motors.
Nice buggy.
Some guys try and keep their stuff balanced on chassis. but you could always add a few Grams of weight to compinsate, if thats your thing

[scr8p]

replace the 2 upper tower mounting socket cap screws with button head screws (or countersink the tower and use flat head screws) and mount it on the tower.

[JK Racing]

that servo wire definitely isnt stock novak. they always used braided red/white/black, not yellow. since the car is a shelfer only, the tamiya plugs dont hurt it at all, but a nice set of old 4 pin deans (black are older than the red) would be period correct (at least that is what I used in the late 80s). if you do find 2 sets of 4 pin deans, use one set on the motor to esc and one set on the esc to battery.

:edit: the 4 pin deans are still available

[Cpt.America]

1. Thanks for the tips guys... you keep saying the wires aren't orginal, but I just opened the T-4 speedo new in the package myself. It had never been touched, heat sinks never even pressed on... 100% brand spakin new. Either way, how do I get the receiver wire over to the receiver if i don't go across the top? Extension and go in front of the battery hold-down? Of if i flip the speedo, should I just run the receiver wire under the battery between the cells?

2. Where can i get the black 4 pin deans? I remember running those way back in the day, but they were red.

3. I think I want to keep the speedo on the chassis, as i think it looks much better.

[Cpt.America]

ARe these the originals? micros is says...

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Deans-1242-Micro-4R-Plugs-4-Pin-Connectors-Red-New-/390335717828?pt=Radio_Control_Parts_Accessories&hash=item5ae1d261c4

[JK Racing]

i believe those are the original ones....(deans)

for the novak, here is a pic straight from their site (knowing it is a 1, not a 4), see the wiring is braided and not yellow.

was that NIP refurb or NIP original?

[Cpt.America]

i believe those are the original ones....(deans)

for the novak, here is a pic straight from their site (knowing it is a 1, not a 4), see the wiring is braided and not yellow.

was that NIP refurb or NIP original?

It's a Novak T-4...

[JK Racing]

I didnt see any pictures of the "T" series, knowing there were only internal changes from the original numbered series. Even my new GTB2 has the braided red/white/black wire. Let me see if I still have a T4 around somewhere to shoot pictures of.

Either way, if you use a motor plug instead of direct wire, you can spin the speedo around and run it under the battery pack, maybe a piece of black tape to hide it some (since this is a gorgeous shelfer).

[8rad]

If you shift the speedo back 3/4 inch can you run the wire around the side and under the battery?

Also, I just noticed, if you rotate the receiver 90deg so the antenna is facing the front you may be able to get an extra 1/4 inch on the speedo wire. It may just be enough.

Another option would be to buy a longer lead. You would of course need some soldering skillz. I think an extension is the wrong choice on such a clean buggy.

M2C

[Cpt.America]

Thanks for the help guys... I think I have it planned out now... going to look gorgeous when all done (the entire car front to back is never-run). I too think an extension would be the wrong way to go.

FYI, even the picture of the novak T-4 on novak's website shows this type of yellow/red/black servo wire. I went through the pictures of all the vintage speedos, and it looks like the T-4 is the only speedo to have this type of servo wire... all the others have the braided/twisted style.

http://www.teamnovak.com/timeline/large_timeline_jpgs/nesc_t4_1.jpg

[huminski]

The T-4 wiring from the factory is exactly as the OP's ESC appears, I have a few of them and they are all the same, red and black twisted (not braided) wire to the switch and a flat yellow / red / black wire to the rec. Even the T1 pic that was posted up above has a flat wire to the ESC, though it appears black/black/red in the pic. Only the switch wire is twisted, again, not braided.

Good luck with that car. Your best bet is to make or find an ESC tray that mounts the ESC over the battery, attached to the shock tower as mentioned.

[GJW]

i would be re-wiring the lead coming from the esc, soldering new wire into the circuit board can be tricky if your new to it. its easy to cut the wire with some extra length with in the orange case, slip some very fine heatshrink over the ends and attach the new lead any excess length can be pushed back through the rubber grommet, jobs done