Just a fun project RC10l Drag car.

[PTModIT]

Hi, I built this RC10L Cuda drag car from spare parts I had.Its just for fun .My question is this,When I go full throttle the car spins in a circle or fish tails badly. But if I go easy on the takeoff then give it full power its okay. It does have the diff in it.Does anybody have a remedy for this?Should I remove the diff and put a straight axle in it?I think maybe its too much power,Mamba Pro 5700 ,Two 7.2 battery packs,Roadhogg rear tires. 96/15 gearing.If somebody has the answer thats great ,if not its not a big deal. Like I said it just a fun project.It would be nice to launch at full throttle and go straight. I haven't tried it with just one pack yet.Thanks.

[PTModIT]

Here's a pic. .

[rctenracer]

Foam tires and lead weight in the back. Lot of power in a light chassis not designed for drags.

[PTModIT]

Hi, I can try that. I did notice when I ran it again without a recharge I pulled on the trigger and it shot off nice and straight .I brought it in to charge the packs read 15 volts compared to almost 18v at full charge. Like you said too much power for this car. I think I'll run just 1 pack.Thanks.

[NüMatt]

Hey PTModIT that looks like a fun way to use up some spare parts. Hope you get it dialed in. Just curious what you know about your front suspension. I just got my hands on an old RC10L myself and it has a front end that is very similar to yours and I'm having trouble figuring out what it is. Thanks.

[scr8p]

I just got my hands on an old RC10L myself and it has a front end that is very similar to yours and I'm having trouble figuring out what it is. Thanks.

made by cheetah.

[PTModIT]

Hi, It is a Cheetah front end ,Very adjustable.

[NüMatt]

Thanks guys. The only thing that really stands out as different is the mounts for mine. Here's a pic. Glad to have a lead on what it may be.

[THEYTOOKMYTHUMB]

I would leave the slipper on. I think you'd have an even harder time controlling it without it. You could also try mounting the batteries in the rear. It certainly wouldn't be as pretty, but maybe with the body on no one would see. Looks like you have a bit of real estate there to work with. Maybe a single 3s lipo. You can get a very compact 2200mah or so pretty cheap. I think the surface you run it on is the biggest factor. If you can find a good size tennis court in good condition after a heavy rain you'd have your best chance. There's one near my work that has 6 courts so it's very long and dust free after a good rain. If you want to get real serious mix up some sugar water or Mountain Dew and lay down a good patch to take off from.

Can I get a better pic of the wheels and details on what you used? Pretty cool.

[Diggley]

More pics!!!

I'd love to do a project like this!

[Eau Rouge]

Lots of things there that can't handle that type of voltage.

As someone who has run over 100 mph with a 20-round cell Top Fuel car in the late 80s, and has also raced electric drag cars in the 21st Century, there are a few things you can do to help.

First, a diff is N O T a slipper. A properly set up ball differential has ZERO slip in it. Next, get rid of the diff if you want it to be a straight line only car. Keep the diff if you have any interest in turning it. Solid axles are for drag cars, diffs are for turning corners.

Camber: in the front end, completely pointless. Does ZERO for you. Camber is for turning. The front end you have on there is for a road race car. You'd be better off with a solid axle and two steering blocks.

Caster: big deal in a drag car. They need a LOT. And not just like 4 or 5 degrees—I'm talking like 25-35° of caster. Like shopping cart amounts. Again, made for going straight, and not turning corners.

Tires: ditch the Proline faux street tires and put on a real set of soft and gummy foam tires. Traction is drag cars for competition is achieved by Koffards traction glue (see: slot cars) as well as VHT or soda syrup applied to the launch area.

Batteries: the power is fine if you are intent on going straight only. If you want to turn with a drag car, you have to do a lot of other things to make that friendly—like make it road car again.

Tweak: you have a lot of it going on here. If it is not 100% perfect, you are in for a world of trouble going straight. One, you have a T-bar on the car. Again, this is something for turning corners. You have two over-large and unnecessary Associated shocks on the back for no real reason. You have a T-bar with tweak screws, a damper plate AND side shocks. A bunch of things trying to do the same thing, that you ABSOLUTELY do not need on a drag car. They are all or turning corners, and all are not only redundant, but counter-acting each other.

Get the side shocks off—now. The side to side damping is controlled through the plates in the center of the pod and the twist of a T-bar. Adjust the T-bar properly using the tweak screws so that both front tires hit the ground at the same time when you lift the front end off the ground and you spin the fronts. If they do not hit at EXACTLY the same time, the car is tweaked and will NEVER go straight on a launch.

Drag cars have no center shocks, other than a few inches of silicone fuel tubing, and sometimes, nothing at all. They have ZERO side-to-side tweak or damping needs because they do not turn. Anything that controls the side dampening is pointless, and a waste of space. Probably doing more harm than good, too.




So, what you need to do first is decide hat you want the car to do—go straight or turn corners. If you want it to turn at all, then you built the wrong type of car for "speed runs."



My Pro Mod Drag Car (from a few years back)—8 cells, 8t brushed rare Earth motor, and about 85mph in under 2 seconds:

[PTModIT]

Hi, Thanks for the info.I knew from the get go that the whole combination was wrong.If there was a quick fix to my problem thats great,If not no big deal ,It's just run on the street.This car will never compete. I'll keep running it until I get tired of not being able to go full throttle when I pull the trigger.It's just a fun project. The neighbours get a kick from it.Thanks again.

[Eau Rouge]

If you just want to screw around with it in the street, put some standard on-road foam tires on both the front and rear so that you are not raking the chassis. Take off the rear side shocks immediately. You'll probably have more fun with one battery pack at that point, too.


Good luck with it!



dc

[PTModIT]

Hi, I will try it.I am removing the shocks,I need them back on my RC10.I did have foams on the back but I guess they were too hard .It ran worse than the ones I have on it now.I will one day get the proper chassis. Do you recommend one.Thanks again.

[Eau Rouge]

If you want a straight-line car, RJ Speed makes good, inexpensive kits, as well as Grand Motorsports (shown above). Can't go wrong with either.


For the foams, if they are old and dried out, a couple soakings of tire sauce like Paragon will bring them right back. Short of having Paragon around, massage them down with 30 SPF sunscreen. Silly, but it will help a lot. The best thing to do is a fresh skin cut on a tire truer—they'll pop right back like new.