RC10 Gold Pan - C stamp?

[GreenBar0n]

This is why it was gritty in there, looks like green dirt and oil.


Barely drove this, so not sure how it was that bad.

Remove bushings, install bearings and fresh diff lube.


Cleaning up.






Made the old pliers into a roll pin puller, such a great idea @juicedcoupe , thanks again for that, worked exactly like it should.


Fresh pad and slick as can be inside.




Ready to go.


World of difference in the way it feels now, silky smooth.

[GreenBar0n]

In order to remove the bushings, the roll pin pliers came in handy.


But getting the pin all of the way out, without damaging anything, is where the punch kit came in handy:


The big punch made getting the hub bushings out easier too, they were in there good. Thanks for the tips @Dangeruss


Tried my old ultrasonic cleaner, worked ok, but not as good as by hand.


Clean and ready for bearings.


Ready to put the rear end back together.

[GreenBar0n]

I opened my rear shocks today, after never being touched since building this, somewhere near 30 years.


The RC10 came with shock oil #5414. My hard anodized AE shocks on the GT, came with #5422 oil. For the older shocks, should I stick to #5414? They are all 30 wt.


I always leave my suspension unloaded when storing my RC's, by sitting the chassis on something that allows all four wheels to be in the air, same thing I did with dirt bikes, because it doesn't put any extra pressure on the inner seals, and cause leaks.

Also have no leaks on any of my other AE shocks, and I have (2) complete sets, on each of my USA-1 Nitro Crusher's, so (8) hard anodized on each USA-1, (4) HA on the GT; (24) AE shocks total, and no leaks in 20-30 years.

[GreenBar0n]

Found this in the manual, regarding the included shock oil #5414, they say the #5422 silicone is better.


I somehow have a spare set of shocks, not sure how, but the spares on the left have less wear.


I have always been running the slip on shock collars, but I just found (4) collars that have the bolt instead, that were still on a tree:


Plan to remove the slip on collars from the front too, as it's next up for cleaning and overhaul.


Before the rear end went together.


Got the rear end nearly together with the shock spares, and the new collars. Did not have to replace the shock seals.

[RC10th]

I really liked those gold AE shock bottles.... I wish I had kept a few.

[Dangeruss]

The RC10 Van looks so cute between the Nitro Crushers... like Chicken Hawk from looney Tunes...!

Rebuild's coming along quick... lookin' good.

[GreenBar0n]

The RC10 Van looks so cute between the Nitro Crushers... like Chicken Hawk from looney Tunes...!

Rebuild's coming along quick... lookin' good.

Thanks! I think I'm going to retire the Parma '63 VW Bus body from the late 90's, it's more of an homage, than an actual replica. The Tamiya on the right though, is very accurate to detail. I have a few more hours left to go on the decals.


I'll most likely put the RC10 body back on, but I do have a few of my favorite VW Bus body now.


The 23 window VW Bus's came in a few really great colors from the factory, I intend to make replica's.

[Dangeruss]

I'll most likely put the RC10 body back on, but I do have a few of my favorite VW Bus body now.

Looks like you buy like I do...

Them: "How many would you like?"
Me: "How many do you have??"

[GreenBar0n]

I'll most likely put the RC10 body back on, but I do have a few of my favorite VW Bus body now.

Looks like you buy like I do...

Them: "How many would you like?"
Me: "How many do you have??"

I bought every one I could find under $50 shipped . If they make a 21 window Bus in the future ('64-'67), like mine is, I'd probably buy even more of them.

[GreenBar0n]

Front end was pretty bad. I was so lucky to find a bag full of shock mount parts that were brand new, bolts, washers, nuts, couldn't believe it. The new hardware really made a difference.

Starting off ugly.


Used more simple green and longest time setting, with better results this time, with a good rinse by hand.


The front shock oil looked new still.


Rebuilt front end.












Saved the worst for last.


Steering and electronics left to do still.

[GreenBar0n]

My ball cups are chewed up, and the turnbuckles are rusty, I can't leave these on there.


I was able to get all new turnbuckles, and ball cups from eBay, but I'm still missing (2) ASC #6262, or a pack like this:


I created a thread in the Wanted section here. Once I have those, I'll have a complete set.
Ball cups: #6274 pack of (14) - on the way
Steering: (2) #6263, (1) #6260 - on the way
Front & Rear: (4) #6262. Have two, need two.

Got as much done as could be without the turnbuckles and ball cups.

[MarkyDents]

Almost there, looking really good. Nice to see you had and have installed the stock spring adjustment collars

[Frankentruck]

For the rust, you could soak them in CLR for a day, rinse off, and re-blue them with Beechwood. If you soak them in CLR with a bunch of other blued parts (like the screws, dogbones, rear stub axles), you might get the re-bluing and rust removal in the same step with just the CLR.

[1911Colt]

I noticed you have an oscilloscope I miss those from my military and electronics repair days. I calibrated them for the Air Force back when my Top CAT was a "new" buggy. Good fun!

[GreenBar0n]

Almost there, looking really good. Nice to see you had and have installed the stock spring adjustment collars

Thanks! I can't believe those collars were still in my kit this whole time. Wish I had another (4) of those collars for my GT, they look much better than the slip on kind, but for racing I understand their purpose. Thanks for the reply @MarkyDents !

For the rust, you could soak them in CLR for a day, rinse off, and re-blue them with Beechwood. If you soak them in CLR with a bunch of other blued parts (like the screws, dogbones, rear stub axles), you might get the re-bluing and rust removal in the same step with just the CLR.

Wish I'd known that beforehand, I have CLR for my old VW, and Brass Black for antiquing brass screws for old Marantz stereo's.










If I can't find another NIP ASC #6262 turnbuckle pair, I'll do the CLR and BB. Thanks for the tip @Frankentruck !

I noticed you have an oscilloscope I miss those from my military and electronics repair days. I calibrated them for the Air Force back when my Top CAT was a "new" buggy. Good fun!

Very cool! It's rare anyone needs an O-scope anymore, but when you do, there's no substitute. I use mine for early 70's Marantz stereo repair and restorations. These are all ready for another 50 years.





And that's not all of them.