GreenBar0n wrote: ↑Wed May 15, 2024 12:29 pm
Anyone know the name of the condition, or sickness, that compels one to build the wheels first, with every model?
Can't quit doing this. Cart before the horse syndrome?
I'm guessing it makes you a wheelophile?
Anyway, those look nice. Where did you find them?
BTW, a word of caution when you are fitting the body. Drill the front body post hole last and ignore the center point that is marked -- it's way too far aft.
XLR8 wrote: ↑Wed May 15, 2024 3:13 pm
I'm guessing it makes you a wheelophile?
Anyway, those look nice. Where did you find them?
BTW, a word of caution when you are fitting the body. Drill the front body post hole last and ignore the center point that is marked -- it's way too far aft.
XLR8 wrote: ↑Wed May 15, 2024 3:13 pm
I'm guessing it makes you a wheelophile?
Anyway, those look nice. Where did you find them?
BTW, a word of caution when you are fitting the body. Drill the front body post hole last and ignore the center point that is marked -- it's way too far aft.
And thanks for the warning on the body, that's crazy that it doesn't match the front dimple.
Rimplaysia seems correct.
Those wheels are super deluxe. I need a set.
It appears maybe they used a taller body post to mark the hole location. I've replaced the four supplied washers with a bespoke aluminum spacer (0.35" tall) and the body seems to fit a little better. Anyway, I'm ready to order some Camel Yellow and finish it. Meanwhile, it's back to the RC10T for me.
I'm thinking about painting the boxart stripes on, like Andy does. I'm no where near that skill level, but I have Polycarbonate Cleaner, and can keep trying. https://www.rc10talk.com/viewtopic.php?t=24555
I hear the long decals that run the length of the body under the windows, are too wide in one spot, and it pulls up from the body, and won't stay stuck. Might try the decals and painted on, I have a spare Protech body, or two here.
GreenBar0n wrote: ↑Wed May 15, 2024 12:29 pm
Anyone know the name of the condition, or sickness, that compels one to build the wheels first, with every model?
Can't quit doing this. Cart before the horse syndrome?
IDK but I did the same thing and I'm not even using the wheels right now. They're just so cool looking though!
I also started designing parts before I even built the car, not sure if that's another sickness.
Personally I do both, depends on my mood and trust of cut lines. Tamiya or kyosho bodies no problem. I do not trust AE cut lines or holes. I would get it mounted first then paint. For the body mount holes I like to leave the posts off and get the body fitting properly, then add the rear post by looking straight down and making a mark, install the post and cut the hole. Then on the front use a long screwdriver to project where the body mount will end up, being it's at a 30⁰ angle you might want to make the hole small at first, and progressively make it larger and more oval.
If you do paint first, when cutting it out try to keep the scissors oriented so they are not touching the paint on the "good" side. Hard to explain but once you rub into the paint with the scissors you will see what I'm talking about haha.
It's time to stand up to the bully. Support the companies that support the industry, not the ones that tear it down. Say no to Traxxas Factory Works website
GoMachV wrote: ↑Thu May 16, 2024 12:14 am
...I do not trust AE cut lines or holes. I would get it mounted first then paint. For the body mount holes I like to leave the posts off and get the body fitting properly, then add the rear post by looking straight down and making a mark, install the post and cut the hole. Then on the front use a long screwdriver to project where the body mount will end up, being it's at a 30⁰ angle you might want to make the hole small at first, and progressively make it larger and more oval....
Apart from being historically inaccurate, why not use velcro on the sides and avoid drilling any holes in body? The RC10 seems tailor made for this. Or does the body not sit as closely to the sides of the tub as I think it does? (I never owned one; I just had the 10T).
All of my vintage Schuey buggies use velcro. I still screw up the paint lines and the window masks, but I never screw up the body holes I do screw up the wing mount holes.
GreenBar0n wrote: ↑Thu May 16, 2024 1:14 pm
What am I missing? All I see is @XLR8's post, and the wheel pics I posted, also some Maximum Overdrive happening.
Your post at the top of the page is the first result. Not the first of one million results, but the first result... ever.
You just created history.
Sure, it's not the invention of the wheel... but if someone reads your post, then scrolls down and see's my post directing them to google rimplaysia, whey they do they get your result. When clicked it lands them on your post, and when they scroll down it leads them to my post... it's a time loop! ...like the kind of thing they send T-100's back to stop...
I figured I would start a thread with Serial number tracking. This is to see where the range of serial numbers come from. Are all of the AE numbers low and outside vendors high? I'm interested in how AE shipped the 40th Anniversary cars out....
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Could a moderator please close this thread. I had a stupid idea.
The red/white arrow points to the location on the boxart body where the decal is too wide, and it won't stay stuck to the body. The red arrow shows how the decal bunches up in the rear corners.
Andy's painted stripes. Pro....
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Prep:
Result:
Should've paid more attention to the masking lines. Going to have to spray some PS-5 in a small dish, and use a brush to fix those shabby lines.
Anyone else watch these?
8BSHuumKOhQ
There are several interviews and lots of history. There are several episodes with hopefully more to come, soon. I found it fascinating.
Well, here it is. I've added bearings and the bellcrank steering. I'd like to add some vintage-looking turnbuckles. I painted it Pactra Firey Orange Metallic. It looks sorta boxart, but I wanted to make it stand out a little but still look vintage-y.
, or rimplaysia. 
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