Marui Hunter - My first buggy... Found one to restore :-) - and a Galaxy RS too :)

[Dadio]

Very nice , rear suspension is very similar to a Holiday Buggy , I never realised that before , do you have any pictures of the diff assembly ?

[silvertriple]

Very nice , rear suspension is very similar to a Holiday Buggy , I never realised that before , do you have any pictures of the diff assembly ?

What exactly do you need beside the one I have already in the post (I can build the diff assembly for the next one and take the proper pictures)?
You may find the pdf of the instruction manual here :https://www.tamiyabase.com/downloads/download-categories/download/54-marui/88695-marui-hunter (it may help to look at it if you have specific questions)

[Dadio]

Its no biggy , I was just trying to see how it went together , cant be bothered to create an account to see instructions .

[silvertriple]

Its no biggy , I was just trying to see how it went together , cant be bothered to create an account to see instructions .

Just took a screenshot of the manual for this :

[Dadio]

Thanks that's much clearer

[silvertriple]

I'll do a proper build post for the Galaxy RS with more details once the car will be in order. Consider this as a teaser

When you built a chassis variant from the one you just built the day before, you notice the difference between the builds while going step by step...



But then at some point in the build you notice that a lot of the step variances directly comes from a page sequence inverted in the print of the instruction manual you got

Had to change my plans somehow. My son would like to be able to build his Hunter within the vacation (schools are closed for holidays this week and next week). For that I will need few screws, washers, spring washers and spacers... Made the stock count on the 4x12 screws (the most concerning area and I have enough of those for the structurally critical elements, other will be managed with alternative screws). I need to do the stock take of the tapping screws in 3 and metric screws in 3 as well, which is why I decided to move on the Galaxy built yesterday. I have not finished as I'm missing servo and esc for it... I'll do stock take on the other screws within the next days and I'll order what will be required.

On the build itself, you may note that the blue parts are not as clean as the rest. It will be marks of use. I did tried to figure out how to clean them with a part I got from somewhere else (a set of Galaxy parts), and all the attempts to clean them were either making it look even worse (had to scratch the surface to remove the dirt, and it damaging the part surface). The bath of white spirit did not work, the WD40 neither (have something in mind, but I'll check later, it may need later replacement)...

[Dadio]

I've got a similar issue with the cage for a Mugen Bulldog , also blue and a bit scratched and I've been meaning to try and see if an old product for polishing real cars still exists , it was called colour magic and was a mix of polish like Tcut and a pigment/colour , it not just polished but enriched the colour at the same time , made my car look great !
Just found it on Amazon , made by Turtle Wax , comes in a choice of colours .

[HiTec]

Great work!

I think my "Super" arms would fit great to one of those chassis.



https://hitecmods.kuvat.fi/kuvat/RC/Marui%20Hunter/Marui%20Hunter%20rear%20lower%20arms%20universal%20shim%20compatible%20super%20arms%20v8.png?img=medium

I also have designs for radio lid and wheels:




Front wheel with support for 10x5x4 bearing size.



Rear wheel (this is still work in progress):



You can easily shave the idler axle with attaching it to cordless drill and the use sandpaper. I adjust my titanium shafts and aluminum posts with that style, as they are usually little bit too thick for 5mm bearings that i use in my Kyosho builds.

[silvertriple]

Hi HiTec and welcome in my thread !

Great work!

I think my "Super" arms would fit great to one of those chassis.



https://hitecmods.kuvat.fi/kuvat/RC/Marui%20Hunter/Marui%20Hunter%20rear%20lower%20arms%20universal%20shim%20compatible%20super%20arms%20v8.png?img=medium

I also have designs for radio lid and wheels:




Front wheel with support for 10x5x4 bearing size.



Rear wheel (this is still work in progress):



You can easily shave the idler axle with attaching it to cordless drill and the use sandpaper. I adjust my titanium shafts and aluminum posts with that style, as they are usually little bit too thick for 5mm bearings that i use in my Kyosho builds.

Looking forward to see your designs online somewhere were we can buy the stl, like your idle gear .

And by the way, your idle gear is great. I got them printed in MJF PA12 and it works smooth. For sure I'll give it a run (just by precaution, I printed a set of spares ). When setting the Marui pinion, it is clear that modern pinion would not mount on the car. Modern pinions are too short to get in contact with the idle gear properly (see pics).

I believe moving the biggest gear by 1.5 to 2 millimeters toward the motor would allow :
- to use a modern pinion with the same module while keeping enough clearance for the differential to work and avoid the zamac pinion which tends to wear fast, and have even more gearing options
- reducing the wear of both the idle gear and motor (I believe the the far you are on the shaft from the motor the bigger the vibrations are...)

I also followed what you have done with your chassis, and would love to see updates on the final results. As matter of fact, I've been in contact with another guy in France printing a chassis, but the modifications he did were not as ambitious as yours (I did not modified the gearbox, like you intend to do)...

[HiTec]

Thanks for the feedback!

I'll see if i have time to make the changes to the idler tomorrow and i will send you the updated .stl free of charge.

The gearbox cover with rear susp supports looks awesome btw!
I might have to silently use that idea in my own chassis as well, cause that looks slick! Your parts also look great, already saw them in thingiverse. Hats off for your great work!

My problem is that i have almost ready chassis, but i havent had time to finish it due school, family and work.

[silvertriple]

The gearbox cover with rear susp supports looks awesome btw!
I might have to silently use that idea in my own chassis as well, cause that looks slick! Your parts also look great, already saw them in thingiverse. Hats off for your great work!

My problem is that i have almost ready chassis, but i havent had time to finish it due school, family and work.

Thanks for the feedback!

The gearbox cover comes from The Optima House... That was the idea I had also in mind, and he made it before I did it myself... And probably, I would not have made it as nice as he did.

And while mounting the Galaxy RS, I discovered my additional part for the rear needs to be modified to include the Roll cage stay for the Galaxy (no way to mount the rear roll cage stay with the additional part)

Any case, take your time! And I'll look forward for your parts and chassis details. It's really interesting...

[HiTec]

Hey silvertriple, just to double check, did you mean i should just extrude the bigger gears whole face towards the motor by 2mm, without doing modifications to the outer face, or moving the whole bigger gear towards the motor by 2mm?

This is now the version where i moved the motor side faces (big gear faces) towards the motor by 2mm. The bigger gear is now 7mm thick, when in original it was 5mm.



Can you also measure the sideway slack there is with the installed idler? I mean, how much there is space between the bigger gears outer face and the chassis and smaller gears face vs. the aluminum motor plate? Because i thought i should revise the design a little, to prevent the possibility of bigger gears outer face from scrubbing to the chassis plate without shims. Bearing and small shim should prevent that in current design, but i think there is a room for development if other than original Marui pinion is used. My own motor plate is beaten up, so i cant 100% confirm the slack with "mint" condition plate.

[silvertriple]

Can you also measure the sideway slack there is with the installed idler? I mean, how much there is space between the bigger gears outer face and the chassis and smaller gears face vs. the aluminum motor plate? Because i thought i should revise the design a little, to prevent the possibility of bigger gears outer face from scrubbing to the chassis plate without shims. Bearing and small shim should prevent that in current design, but i think there is a room for development if other than original Marui pinion is used. My own motor plate is beaten up, so i cant 100% confirm the slack with "mint" condition plate.

I'll check this tonight. None of my motor plates are new, and among the 4 chassis I got with a motor plate, some were scrubbed on the bigger gear side, one notably because the washer was missing while for the others it was because the washer became thinner due to abrasion (could see this by comparing with the NIP idle gear which included new idle shaft, washer and pinions). I'll also take details pictures with measurements being highlighted (but you will have to wait for this)...

[HiTec]

Alright, by making those measurements, we can compare the two An no worries, take your time.

[silvertriple]

Alright, tried to figure out where the limit is... I opened the gearbox again, remove everything on the top of the Galaxy RS mounted yesterday, to take measurements, and also because I suspected something wrong - the motor did not turn properly... So I had to unmount it in any case to understand why!


The motor had an issue. I'll have to replace it.
I then removed the motor and start to take measurements...

Chassis wall to motor mount plate is about 16.4 mm (tried to be as precise as possible)
The washer is not the one coming from the NIP, I will need to get back in my stuff to find the unopened nip (I have one ilde gear nip - I'll measure it). I'm not sure the distance are right. The only reference point I have is the distance between the motor plate and the chassis side.


In a french forum i'm also posting in, I remember having seen someone mentioning removal of material on a used idle gear to save it... I found back the post:
https://www.vintage-rc.net/viewtopic.php?f=11&t=25833
The guy mentioned he removed 4mm on the small gear... Measured on your idle gear, @HiTec, I believe 4 mm would lead the bigger gear to touch the satellites of the diff: 3mm should be ok to remove on the smaller gear. Anything more would be risky side... The 4mm mentioned in the french forum seems too much as per my understanding.


For idle gear to wall, it's depending upon the washer thickness, I believe. I had a look, and i'm not really sure how to measure it right now...
NIP washer : 0.6mm
NIP Idle gear : 15.5mm for the sake of precision, I measured two of them (one was badly kept in inventory, and the metals coming with it are rusted which is the reason I search for another one while I did not identified yours). the biggest gear thickness is 4.9mm
your idle gear printed is 15.0mm (i.materialise.com - MJF PA12) without the bearings, and 15.2 with the bearings - which may explain as well why I think the limit is 3.5mm while the guy in the french forum mentioned 4mm...
at the end, I believe it remains about 0.2 mm which can be parted between the chassis side and the motor mount

Hope it helps...