While I'm waiting on some more TLR parts for the battery bulkhead option I started looking at the Exotek parts like I used on the C2 "Tuber" build.
One of the carbon fiber lipo straps had a little bit of de-lamination on the end, which I've repaired with some medium CA glue. This time, I have some blue (sky blue) machined hex stand offs from Tuning Haus. They are available in different colors and lengths from https://www.tqrcracing.com/ or you could buy direct? Yes, they have purple ones too.
When I disassembled to figure out the battery placement I noticed that the trailing arm pivot was leaving a mark on the ESC stand offs. Not bad, but it was marring the surface. I pulled them off and made a 0.020" reduction of the diameter. Now I'm happy.
Earlier, I had made some wing hardware but was not real happy with them. They could have used a couple of more cuts,45 degrees here and there. So... I drilled some more rod (1/16" for the wire) in prep for a couple of more. Seeing as I'm waiting on some parts and a new Reedy Wolf Pack lipo shorty. I have something to get into.
Sweet!
Andy's Renegade body is timeless and it looks like it'l fit the trailing arm chassis well. I reckon it's really tricky to trim around those canted rear shocks (probably require a little extra clearance so they'll swing freely). Looking good!!
Do you have a paint scheme in mind?
Eyeball the shock mount hole and drill/ream the screw hole position. Use a long 3mm screw and mount the shock, use a sharpie pen to draw the outline of the shock body/spring.
I've not figured out a paint scheme yet but would like to use gunmetal,chrome,blue and white.
I just got my RC10GT partially reassembled, and discovered that the steering is worse than useless. I want to get a Factory Works ball bearing steering kit for it, but am utterly lost as to what these 3 drag link options are. Is there any...
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Thanks for the help! I didnt realize you were factory works.
This is a build for a customer, I'm still finishing it. I have to say, as much as I hate Carbon Fiber, it sure looks nice!
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Hey, that's right! I found a good photo online that has very little perspective, laid my six-hole directly on my laptop screen over the photo and resized the photo until their sizes match and the holes you mentioned line-up perfectly. Now, I can...
I couldn't pass up one of these new Factory Works chassis kits. It is very similar to the ultra rare vintage Composite Craft Worlds RC10T chassis, however it uses the stock aluminum front end. The material finish is very similar to the original, and...
with those short screws and no nuts, how is this supposed to stay in the car?
i ended up installing a houge from another car in my ce, but these would have looked very nice in there.
i suppose i could...
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if using them on a graphite chassis, use the longer 7/8 8-32 screws, install the shanked on the chassis (like you would a houge or a&l bell crank with the nut down), slide on bell cranks and secure with some 8-32 nuts.
Alright my rc10t has an issue the screw that holds the bellcrank is stripped out, is there an easy solution to this, the only fix I've seen is use rc10 steering in the front holes. I hate the sloppy steering it has right now with the little play in...
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so you mean the nose plate is loose also, the threads in the noseplate are stripped?
the only thing that would work for the stripped noseplate would be to use either a nut on the screw, on both, then put your bellcranks on, or find a ball bearing...
Ok, another question since my RC10 classic is my first 6 gear. Can anyone tell me how to properly install the bell crank steering? What do I do with the little plastic washers on the parts tree? I'm guessing the nylon screw is installed upside-down...
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I wish they would do the old style with the nut on it those look the best.
X2 8)
The last message I got from Barb was on the 7th. And I did suggest the older kit with the nut.
Hello Aaron,
Sorry no release date yet, but it will be soon....
