Freshly built Stealth transmission with AVID metal/ceramic bearings, AVID diff balls and sanded diff rings make it slick as snot. FOX Kashima coat B6 shock bodies that I got off of eBay for a great price, along with all the internal shock parts. They are built with the X-Ring seals. The grooves in the trailing arm posts really set it off!
I haven't decided whether to use 1/4" axles with dog bones or 1/4" CVA's. the CVA part number seems to be no good anymore or maybe I'm missing something.
I picked up this Tekin 17.5 at a good deal from another forum. It's new in box (I cut the seal) so no worries there. I also got an ESC in yesterdays mail. Working on the wing mounts while waiting on some wing buttons to arrive via USPS. I used my last bit of 3/8" aluminum round bar to make the wing mounts. They are not exactly right, need to get some more alum. and do them over.
NomadRacer wrote: ↑Thu Nov 29, 2018 8:26 am
... They are not exactly right, need to get some more alum. and do them over...
C2180wingmount.jpg
Really??
Please sell me your throwaways.
They look very nice to me.
The grooving is kind of wonky, the cutter was dull. Now, I'm low on cutting fluid and metal! Time to re-stock on essentials. I have a cup full of things that are "out of spec"
I decided not to track down an aluminum motor guard/rear bumper and use the Factory Works kit supplied Kydex. I cut it off with a dremel and re-shaped it with a heat gun and a wood block. if you get the temp and pressure right, you'll get an imprint of the holes in the motor plate in the Kydex... easy drilling that way for the 4-40 screws.
I got some JC Racing RC10 Vintage wheels for the build from the UK. I went with white as I might die them light blue. JC Concepts Space Bar tires for now, may change later to something more aggressive.
I should have some turnbuckles this coming Monday. I don't know if I'll get into installing them till later in the week. I have to go away for medical reasons (heart check up) for a couple of days. It's all routine, still a pain in the butt and cost me money that I could be spending on RC parts.
XLR8 wrote: ↑Mon Dec 03, 2018 9:50 am
Looks great!
Godspeed Nomad.
Thanks brother!
Yesterdays USPS delivery brought some Lunsford Titanium goods, RC10GT Wide Front Axles (not listed @ Lunsford, you'll have to ask for them), and some Super Duty, 3.5mm Turnbuckles. I used 4.8mm Lunsford ball studs and Super Duty Rod ends. The servo connection uses 3mm x 16mm Punisher turnbuckle with cut down RPM rod ends. Tight quarters there but everything works out perfectly with the Factory Works 180* bell cranks.
Next, I'll get into some ESC placement and wiring.
Very nice Nomad.
I haven't used them myself yet but two advantages I see for Lunsford ball cups over RPM's:
- they appear to be a bit smaller than RPM (maybe closer to stock) which could solve that interference problem at the front inner camber and steering link locations
- they will facilitate removal via the broached hex in the ball stud. I always hate to remove a new set of ball cups by popping them off the stud. I think they will not fit as tight when they go back on the second time. I have no evidence to support this -- it's probably just an OCD thing.
Anyway, good work!!! I'm keen to see the next update.
XLR8 wrote: ↑Tue Dec 04, 2018 9:45 am
Very nice Nomad.
I haven't used them myself yet but two advantages I see for Lunsford ball cups over RPM's:
- they appear to be a bit smaller than RPM (maybe closer to stock) which could solve that interference problem at the front inner camber and steering link locations
- they will facilitate removal via the broached hex in the ball stud. I always hate to remove a new set of ball cups by popping them off the stud. I think they will not fit as tight when they go back on the second time. I have no evidence to support this -- it's probably just an OCD thing.
Anyway, good work!!! I'm keen to see the next update.
When do you leave for your checkup?
I'm the same, hate to pop a ball cup off due to the risk of damage. I had some left over 4.8mm ball studs from my Monster Beetle so no funds had to be spent. The steering/camber links clear real nice. The Lunsford Punisher ball cups, along with there 4-40 threaded Ti ball studs are very nice also. I've used them multiple times.
I'm headed out this afternoon for Norfolk, VA, 150 miles away. I'll be back sometime around noon on Thursday. I'll still be around via my mobile.
No, you are right, ball cups installed more than one time will be weaker. I hate doin that myself. I've found if you sort of 'roll' the cup off the ball in line with the tie rod, it's a little gentler on the ball cup. Like, grab the tie rod and lift up in the same plane. I've been knocking the hinge pins out lately to work on the car and leaving the ball links connected unless absolutely necessary.
I just got my RC10GT partially reassembled, and discovered that the steering is worse than useless. I want to get a Factory Works ball bearing steering kit for it, but am utterly lost as to what these 3 drag link options are. Is there any...
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Thanks for the help! I didnt realize you were factory works.
This is a build for a customer, I'm still finishing it. I have to say, as much as I hate Carbon Fiber, it sure looks nice!
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Hey, that's right! I found a good photo online that has very little perspective, laid my six-hole directly on my laptop screen over the photo and resized the photo until their sizes match and the holes you mentioned line-up perfectly. Now, I can...
I couldn't pass up one of these new Factory Works chassis kits. It is very similar to the ultra rare vintage Composite Craft Worlds RC10T chassis, however it uses the stock aluminum front end. The material finish is very similar to the original, and...
with those short screws and no nuts, how is this supposed to stay in the car?
i ended up installing a houge from another car in my ce, but these would have looked very nice in there.
i suppose i could...
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if using them on a graphite chassis, use the longer 7/8 8-32 screws, install the shanked on the chassis (like you would a houge or a&l bell crank with the nut down), slide on bell cranks and secure with some 8-32 nuts.
Alright my rc10t has an issue the screw that holds the bellcrank is stripped out, is there an easy solution to this, the only fix I've seen is use rc10 steering in the front holes. I hate the sloppy steering it has right now with the little play in...
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so you mean the nose plate is loose also, the threads in the noseplate are stripped?
the only thing that would work for the stripped noseplate would be to use either a nut on the screw, on both, then put your bellcranks on, or find a ball bearing...
Ok, another question since my RC10 classic is my first 6 gear. Can anyone tell me how to properly install the bell crank steering? What do I do with the little plastic washers on the parts tree? I'm guessing the nylon screw is installed upside-down...
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I wish they would do the old style with the nut on it those look the best.
X2 8)
The last message I got from Barb was on the 7th. And I did suggest the older kit with the nut.
Hello Aaron,
Sorry no release date yet, but it will be soon....
Now, I'm low on cutting fluid and metal! Time to re-stock on essentials. I have a cup full of things that are "out of spec" 
Amazon [Bot], 
