One thing I've learned about RC cars in my time is that it's very unlikely that whoever sold the screws, or nuts or E clips or washers or whatever hardward, likely didn't make the hardware. Making things like screws is a very involved process, it's much easier just to buy from someone who already makes them. I don't know of any online sites, but at work we have a catalog of nearly every single screw, washer, nut or whatever you could possibly ever want. I'm sure there is a way to find the screw in whatever color you wanted without just looking for RC parts. Maybe figure out what exact size it is, and try a google search for hardware sources.
Electrohacker wrote:tier new of a site that sold sets for cars, but they were all black oxide stainless or hardened or something... they were good screws
You're probably thinking of hexcrews.com or is it hexscrews.com One of those. I had a set of their screws on my XXX4 G+, they're better than titanium, and cheaper.
Electrohacker wrote:tier new of a site that sold sets for cars, but they were all black oxide stainless or hardened or something... they were good screws
You're probably thinking of hexcrews.com or is it hexscrews.com One of those. I had a set of their screws on my XXX4 G+, they're better than titanium, and cheaper.
I checked out the HexHeads site. They sure are excited about fasteners
Aren't these just steel screws or steel with plating?
Is there really such a thing as titanium screws? If you're breaking the aluminum screws, you have more to worry about than the weight of your fasteners.
I'm rebuilding another 10T. The rear hubs are marked only with a 0 (zero) no L for left. Does the 0 designate zero degrees? Are they aftermarket (RPM)?
Also, the rear suspension mounts are marked with a 3 on each. 3 degrees?
I've only ever used...
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hey dude bodys ready and i have your wanted laundry list nose hubs mounts you would be best changing the nose seems pointless to be so precise on the rear to have rebent nose :wink: will be home tonight.
Thanks for this great forum, I know this has been answered before. I have tried the search and came up empty. In one of the early RC10 Manuals it states to OIL the Bushings in the tranny and rear end. What is a good modern oil to use during a...
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gomachv, Thanks so much for your tip on the R/C Shop out in Oregon. I called them and got the last set of #6614 Idlers that they had. They are also looking for some other parts for me at this time. Thanks again!
Does anyone know what happened to the 2008 Vonats coverage thread we had up? Jay had taken some amazing pictures from the race and I wanted to post some of them up on the Vonats Facebook page. Any help. Thanks!
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Scratch that... found it! I didn't have the date on it... Sheesh guess I didn't think I'd do the race twice back then. Always the pessimist. :oops:
I was wondering if any of you had found a UK based supplier of RIT fabric dye for dying RC10 parts? If so can you hook me up with a name and contact details please?
Cheers
Ed 8)
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I got mine from here :)
Thanks a lot Ferretti and everyone else for replying but I think I am going to go ahead and try out the website above to try and get the rit dye.
I have access to an original (circi 1984) 6-gear RC10 that is my dad's. I'm thinking about taking it out and run it at the Vintage Nationals in September. Now aside from the destroying the shelf queen concept, what should i worry about updating to...
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Well ebay is full of deals of potential runners.
I am not the shelfer guy either, I actually run all of my RC cars. BUT I don't have one that is brand new.
That is also one of the reasons why i sold my NIP fiber-lyte chassis here.
Bing [Bot],