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As nose tubes are non existent I made my own! Some Ali bar off eBay and got the lathe going! If you want to save some time in future builds, K&S 83060 tubing works great for nose and wing tubes. I use a set of soft vise pads similar to these to hold them. https://www.homedepot.com/p/Yost-Univer...

@juicedcoupe I understand what you are saying. With just a race, for the inner outdrive, non-flanged bearing, it would just act like a spacer for the outer flanged one. ...and the large stealth bearing fits right into an unmolested 6 gear case? Thanks! Yes. The only other thing needed is a small sc...

That pan just looks a little oxidized, like it was kept somewhere like a garage. Dissembling and thoroughly cleaning the chassis should help. A good scrub with dish soap and a mildly abrasive pad will usually remove a lot of it. I have also used naphtha (lighter fluid) to remove some stubborn stains...

bluewormx wrote: ↑Wed Aug 26, 2020 1:05 pm The Schumacher Thrust bearing for RERE cat xls (part U7216) diff will almost definitely work. amain is back ordered but they have the measurements on there: 1/8 x 5/16 x 9/64".

I have a spare 6594 set in front of me. The bronze bushing matches those measurements.

The bag is a B4 box which I’ll build up and use the Nix printed conversion parts as a stealth box costs a fortune these days! There are still deals out there. Just recently, I picked up a near complete A stamp chassis and suspension with two Stealth transmissions for $150 and a 10T with about half ...

Here is my original Stadium Blitzer. Basics: Original 90's Tamiya Stadium Blitzer, rebuilt with new Blitzer Beetle diff/gear set, control arms, bumper, battery strap, esc tray, and tires. It has a Team Blue Groove body and Ebay sourced decals. It is painted in Duratrax bright white, with metallic bl...

For a basher, I'd probably get some heavier duty ball cups as well. I believe that the RPM cups are available in three different lengths, allowing some flexibility in turnbuckle lengths and the ability to gain some more thread engagement. Space provided, I like to have ball studs with enough thread ...

Lunsford is still showing them, 4.3mm x 4-40.

Last ones I bought were HPI but were m3.

Occasionally, I see bags of used ones on Ebay.



Also, check CRC. They show 4-40 versions but don't list the ball size.

The Dubro 4-40 is huge.

Dadio wrote: ↑Thu Oct 15, 2020 6:00 am We really need to encourage entry's of lower quality as it might make choosing easier

I only have so many cars.

But I really don't want to risk breaking my camera by taking pictures of them.

What did you damage that cost that much to fix? Many of the common "wear" parts are still easy enough to find. Proper care and setup of the differential and slippers will go a long way with the trans life. Unless the shocks a physically damaged, the o-rings can be replaced. I bought these ...

I suspect that if you look closer, you don't need nearly as much as you think. You can usually replace the o rings in the shocks and be fine. Kimbrough spur gears are ~$6. The teflon bushings are typically fine. Sometimes, they get pushed into the diff tube. Pan car drive rings can be used, and are ...

If the cracks are in the front, the CRP bumper/brace should sturdy it up some. Check Ebay.

Photo album set to private.

Just upload them directly.

For general use, I use a soft or medium/soft serrated brush with medium tension springs.

This seems to be a good balance for comm and brush wear, leaning a little more to limiting comm wear.

Not always, but I had several with it written on the armature with a marker.

On many of the stock motors, look for visual clues. Different cans and endbell designs were often used on different iterations.