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Hi Guys, I'm surprised there is no stuff on youtube or here .. anybody got one yet? I'm considering it as a runner.

Cheers

Jon

As far as I know, none have gone out. I ordered one, but not sure if I am in the first group or not.

There was some discussion.

https://www.rc10talk.com/viewtopic.php?p=567490&hilit=fanrc#p567490

It looks like its preorder only right now. It looks interesting.

A couple people on facebook have them, including the owner of Klinik

I'm building one up, but following the Worlds re-re instructions and also Mark Westerfield's build, which calls for "3x .125" downstop spacers. As FanRC's kit doesn't include these spacers (only includes the 0.031" size), and ASC6466 is out of production, what recommendations?

I'm thinking my daughter's Perler beads, but they're a hair over 5mm in height each.. 3x 0.125" is about 9.5mm so I'd be about 0.5mm too much. Time to start trimming...

Editing to add Mark's build thread:
https://www.rc10talk.com/viewtopic.php?t=6600

The difference in setups is going to be dependant on the shock shaft. FanRC shocks are 1.32 shafts which will require the spacers but the worlds rere came with 1.02 shafts and thus used much thinner spacers. I would have to assume with Marks setup he is using 1.32 shafts since that is a lot of spacer. Original spacers were fuel tubing cut to 5/8"- far more than the 3/8" mark is using. If you are within a .5mm of where mark sets his up you will be just fine. For a racer, personally I'd buy a pair of 1.02 shock shafts and run it like the world's cars

Cool, thanks - I wasn't aware of the shock lengths. I have the Classic re-release from 2013ish but I missed out on the Worlds car.

I plan to run it on a tight(ish) indoor carpet track so getting the car lower would help corner handling.

3 1/8 spacers on Mark's car is probably correct with 1.32 shafts using the outer arm hole. 5/8 is for when you use the 2nd from outside arm hole.

Anyone have any issues with their transmission in these? mine seems to bind up quite a bit

RogueIV wrote: ↑Fri Aug 02, 2024 11:07 pm Anyone have any issues with their transmission in these? mine seems to bind up quite a bit

Sounds like an exact copy of the re-re Words transmission, problems and all.

The fix for them was an early style case and idle gear. Luckily, Associated is supposed to have some later this month.

It'll be fine after you run a pack or 2 through it.

I just started building my kit. Gonna be a long build because I don't get a lot of time to spend on it right now. I literally got hung up on step 2. The steering bellcrank did not turn out as good as I hoped. The plastic bushings don't offer enough bite into the screws to inspire confidence in their ability to hold over time. And also they rub on the chassis as they turn. Probably just need a spacer... there are 4 nylon spacer looking things in "bag A" so I might try them and hope they aren't called for down the road in the assembly.

It's discouraging news to hear there's binding in the gearbox. Same for shock spacers that seem to be necessary but not included. I'm familiar enough with the rear shocks and the spacers they call for. I assume they are included? Anyone know? But it sounds like the front shock shaft is different than original... and it's longer so it does need spacers? Is that due to the size on the spring? I assume the spacer limits the amount of shaft outside the shock body? The difference between 1.02" and 1.32" being .3" so the spacer needs to be .3"?

Lol. Am I following this right guys? Haha

Sorry think I double posted...

Rc10812 wrote: ↑Sat Aug 03, 2024 8:11 pm The steering bellcrank did not turn out as good as I hoped. The plastic bushings don't offer enough bite into the screws to inspire confidence in their ability to hold over time. And also they rub on the chassis as they turn. Probably just need a spacer... there are 4 nylon spacer looking things in "bag A" so I might try them and hope they aren't called for down the road in the assembly.

With my graphite cars, I shortened the threads on the ball studs for the bellcranks.

You just need to raise the bellcrank. You can't assemble it like you would on a tub chassis because the graphite chassis doesn't drop down like the nose plate.