I posted a couple years ago about having some issues with my RC10GT that I converted to brushless. It just would not put the power down. I drive mostly on the street just fooling around and that ball diff would inevitably chirp and get gritty after a couple hours and require a rebuild.
So I just decided I had enough and replaced it with a gear diff. I decided to use the all-aluminum upgrade option for the TLR 22 series. It's 100% metal, no plastic parts, planetary gear style. The problem was that it didn't fit cause it's wider and also has 1 less tooth (51T versus 52T on the GT) and uses metric bearings. Luckily they are both 48 pitch gears. I also took the opportunity to integrate the motor mount.
coxbros1 wrote: ↑Sun Feb 16, 2020 6:25 pm
Nice! U need to start doing videos on youtube like johnnyq90
Definitely thought about it, but when it comes time to do stuff I just want to get it done and not worry about camera position, lighting, etc. It can easily double the time it takes to do things.
Maybe I will try it next time Whenever the GT needs new parts haha.
coxbros1 wrote: ↑Sun Feb 16, 2020 6:25 pm
Nice! U need to start doing videos on youtube like johnnyq90
Definitely thought about it, but when it comes time to do stuff I just want to get it done and not worry about camera position, lighting, etc. It can easily double the time it takes to do things.
I bet....prolly more, johnnyq takes 5 or 6 weeks to put out a 13min video. But fun watching guys like u who can make those parts!
So I've got an RC10GT with a stock ball diff. For some reason I've had bad luck with this diff over the years. It seems to slip under brushless power, and when I tighten it down to the point of not slipping, it gets crunchy fast and breaks the diff...
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Dang I’m running a 4.5t Novak Velociti brushless on my stealth 2:25 with a fixed gear hub, am I on borrowed time with my RC10DS?
Ok i Know a Ball diff is great and is standard on the top line kits.
I have been racing since 85 when ball diffs were very limited to the best of the best as standard equipment.
I have been asking myself this question for a while now based on...
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I think it also depends on how technical the track is. The gear diff is heavier which means more rotational mass. People spend quite a bit of money to lighten every part of the drivetrain. If you need a lot of quick throttle commands a gear diff...
Is there some trick to get the diff gear off the diff tube. I have a bushing in there I'd like to replace with a bearing, but I can't seem to get the thing apart. Anyone have suggestions?
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get a big pair of wire cutters, the cutting jaws are angled, so you put the jaws open end facing the gear and a little squeeze and the gear pops right off. I know this is an old thread. But still a good tip.
I picked up a t4 roller with a ball diff.
I have not used it in my 4.1 yet, but hanging on to it for a spare. I am not used to ball diffs. Mine feels like it is adjusted to tight. When i spin one side it feels, not gritty but just not smooth like...
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well, while the family is watching TV tonight, i guess i know what i will be doing LOL
So I see a lot of talk on here about maintenance of ball diffs. What is an appropriate schedule, and what exactly do you guys do? Just clean, inspect, and regrease? Any grease prefered over others? How often do you rebuild with new balls, washers,...
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this one :)
(told you... stupid expensive... but then again it was in the rb6 box... stupid expensive rb6 btw :lol: )
Thanks Paul. Do you also know the part# for their thrust bearing grease?
I am in the process of rebuilding an Egress runner and I am having trouble with the ball diffs. When I tighten the screws it binds in certain spots. It feels smooth all the way around but stiffens up in one area of the rotation. Because it is held...
Whenever the GT needs new parts haha.
