Best bell cranks
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Best bell cranks
i can remember all my aftermarket parts on my 1988 rc10, but have no idea what bellcranks i used. who made the best ones? i'm sure there's not a huge difference since they are just basically L shaped bearing holders. pics if you got 'em!
- Jim85IROC
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Re: Best bell cranks
I don't have this setup, so I might be talking 100% out of my ass, but I always thought that the styles that put the ball studs on the cross-bar would have been the best design because it doesn't yank that inner wheel over a ton at the end of the stroke like the other designs all do. This is how almost all modern bell crank designs work, and how all of the Associated stuff has been since the B4/t4 design.
This Factory Works design is the type that I'm referring to:

I believe that some of the early Losi designs for the RC10s used a similar setup.
This Factory Works design is the type that I'm referring to:

I believe that some of the early Losi designs for the RC10s used a similar setup.
- jcwrks
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Re: Best bell cranks
BITD I recall LOSI/RPS, MIP, and Houge being the commonly used bellcranks. The LOSI/RPS one kept the ball studs high, whereas the other 2 were lower.





The TX SKUNK
- jwscab
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Re: Best bell cranks
those are probably the 4 most common non-factory setups that are all great.
the RPS/Losi and Houge and MIP are currently no longer available and you would only be able to find used examples.
factory works/Team A&L is readily available in a few different options and has top notch service.
you can also run the factory bellcranks from the worlds car, both original and re-release, the re-release parts are probably the second easiest to find, although most of the re-release stuff is drying up fast. These are extremely similar to the houge bellcranks.
composite craft offered a similar set up as the houge but did not have the step down on the outer ball locations.
You can also find factory setups that were available in the the RC10DS and RC10gt that include a servo saver as part of the assembly which works well, but the nose screws are unique and hard to find. In addition, this setup is not bearing equipped.
the last and weirdest setup that was common was the hot trick, usually anodized red but could be raw, gold or black, these had a threaded body so the bellcrank rode up and down the 8-32 screw as you turned left and right. very basic and very 'unfinished' in the typical hot trick fashion.
the RPS/Losi and Houge and MIP are currently no longer available and you would only be able to find used examples.
factory works/Team A&L is readily available in a few different options and has top notch service.
you can also run the factory bellcranks from the worlds car, both original and re-release, the re-release parts are probably the second easiest to find, although most of the re-release stuff is drying up fast. These are extremely similar to the houge bellcranks.
composite craft offered a similar set up as the houge but did not have the step down on the outer ball locations.
You can also find factory setups that were available in the the RC10DS and RC10gt that include a servo saver as part of the assembly which works well, but the nose screws are unique and hard to find. In addition, this setup is not bearing equipped.
the last and weirdest setup that was common was the hot trick, usually anodized red but could be raw, gold or black, these had a threaded body so the bellcrank rode up and down the 8-32 screw as you turned left and right. very basic and very 'unfinished' in the typical hot trick fashion.
- jcwrks
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Re: Best bell cranks
Speaking of CC, it looks like Stormer has some in stock. https://shop.stormerhobbies.com/product-p/cc19150.htm
RPM has two different bellcrank versions available if you can find them.
RPM has two different bellcrank versions available if you can find them.
The TX SKUNK
Re: Best bell cranks
Would these work on tge RC10T?jcwrks wrote: ↑Tue Apr 09, 2019 4:52 pm Speaking of CC, it looks like Stormer has some in stock. https://shop.stormerhobbies.com/product-p/cc19150.htm
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Re: Best bell cranks
Only if you move them a hole forward in the nose plate, which many do anyway, for better steering.
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