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Trinity Yokomo wheels with Schumacher tires
Carbon shocks towers, hingepin mounts, camber link mount and transmission brace.
Lazer suspension.
Steering is shaved T2 Fasttrax ballraced bellcranks with ZX ballraced link.
AE 1. gen. slipper modified to fit SPW965-01 shaft.
Ball diff. front and geared rear diff.
Steering and rear camber links are fitted with Ultima RB6 turnbuckles.
Lazer ZX belt guard fitted (not pictured)

Wow, very nice.
I love the Optima Mid.
I should get my act together and finish mine

HKS_TRD -
Thanks for the kind words.
Being holiday season with lots of time off from work, I think we´re ready to see the first cople of pictures of Your MID

Nice hard-core racing build Dennis.
The custom bumper gives it a nice little extra personal detail too.

DennisM wrote: AE 1. gen. slipper modified to fit SPW965-01 shaft.

SPW... Is that a different shaft from the stock mid ones? I wouldn't mind some details about how you maneged to put a decent diff on there.

DennisM wrote:HKS_TRD -
Thanks for the kind words.
Being holiday season with lots of time off from work, I think we´re ready to see the first cople of pictures of Your MID

This is my LWB Mid
http://www.rc10talk.com/viewtopic.php?f=30&t=34445

And I also started a SWB Mid
http://www.rc10talk.com/viewtopic.php?f=30&t=30497

As you can guess, I have a soft spot for the Mid

Mr. ED wrote:Nice hard-core racing build Dennis.
The custom bumper gives it a nice little extra personal detail too.

DennisM wrote: AE 1. gen. slipper modified to fit SPW965-01 shaft.

SPW... Is that a different shaft from the stock mid ones? I wouldn't mind some details about how you maneged to put a decent diff on there.

Hi ED,

OT-87 is the stock shaft. The prefix SPW use to be parts for the Kyosho Spider model but in this particular case I can't confirm.

Thanks Joel,
I knew about SPW being for option-house and tuning parts, hence the question

I have both the spider shaft and the optima-mid one, but don't see any difference. (Actually, I have no clue which is which either.)
Enlighten us Dennis.

Thanks for the kind words.

Just for You Mr. ED, I´ve taken the gearbox apart to snap a picture

The Shaft should be for Pureten GP10.

That shaft is HARD! I had to heat it to get a bite.

That flattened part looks almost as if you could put the newer double-pad slipper on it

That's really interesting. A slipper mod using existing parts.

Mr. ED wrote:That flattened part looks almost as if you could put the newer double-pad slipper on it

There´s no flat parts on the shaft - That´s why I went with the 1. gen slipper.
It´s just to drill two holes and cut a groove for the E-clips.

A while ago, I made a MID shaft using the TLR22B slipper - Took me quite a few attempts to get the flat part accurate enough by hand

éJoel: sure, but drilling that hole for the crosspin is a huge barrier to me.
I guess I could get one of Alcyon's topshafts for a b4 slipper, but they're pricey.

I already tried:
- a top-shaft sold for putting a b4 slipper on the traxxas slash (2wd).
- some tower hobbies shaft for a gas car
- traxxas 4-tec top shaft
nothing worked out right: crossholes in the wrong places, too short, no groove for the E-clip at the end.

It's a good thing shelfers don't really need slippers

This morning, I did a shaft for the B4 slipper
Shaft material is a Hornet rear axle.
Time spent - app. 1 hour

Tools used:
2mm drill bit
2,5mm thread tap
Junior hacksaw
Electric drill
Bench vise
Various files
Propane torch (hardening)
20 cl oilbath (hardening)
Threadlock or snap glue

Mark the length of the flat area on the shaft.
Put the shaft in the drillchuck (the drill is mounted in the bench vise)
Then take away 0,3mm material, with a file (while the shaft spins) where the flat part is going to be (this leaves a shoulder for the inner slipper plate)
Put the shaft in the vise and file the flat part - make sure not to ruin the "shoulder" for the inner slipper plate.
Drill the 2mm hole for the pinion crosspin.
Reinstall the shaft in the chuck and cut the two e-clips grooves with the junior hacksaw while the shaft spins.
Shorten the shaft, in the correct length on the non slipper side, with the hacksaw while the shaft spins.
Now comes the hard part - put the shaft upright in the vise and drill a 2mm hole app. 7mm deep - then thread it 2,5mm.
After hardening - clean the inner threads with degreaser and let it dry.
Install a 2,5x20 screw, of good quality, with the thread lock and cut the screw head and exceed thread.

Beautiful work!

Thanks Marc