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I'm looking into getting some of these made and was wondering if anyone would be interested in having a set made at the same time.

This is a 3d drawing of what will be machined out of 4mm 6082 T6 Alloy.

I might be tempted depending on price.

Would they be bare alloy or anodized?

He was looking into anodizing as they don't do that in house yet but without they would be around £40 per set depending on how many people I could get together.

Would these be tapped (M3) to take a screw in both sides - like the originals are supposed to (albeit with self tappers into the plastic) or would you have a clearance hole all the way through like most of the originals end up with 4No nut & bolts passing through? - I would prefer the former

I did ask for them not to be tapped but now thinking about it that would be the better option and look tidier.

On a side note dan I might have something your looking for let me sought through a big box I recived today and I'll get back to you

Ok they can be tapped that's not a problem but what is there will only be about 2mm if thread so it will hold but for how long and how tight it's not known.

Any thoughts or suggestions are welcome

Surely there needs to be a tube between the top and bottom - no problem if bolted all the way through, but if threaded then it would need to be the tube, not the plates?

Yes, I just thought that also... not sure how critical the 'tube' bit is - it must help keep it all square?

I've ordered some 17mm pcs brass stand off's the same that Luke used on his to replace the plastic tubes. I bet you could find something similar that is or could be tapped to use as a sort of spacer nut.

I went for the stand off so I can still use original belt tensioner system that's on the front diff housing.

I've been looking around and I think I may have the answer in a stud connector. Cheep and stronger than the original plastic spacers.

Here
http://www.fixingsupplies.co.uk/nuts/studding-connectors/m3-studding-connector-bzp.html

A slight modification may be required as they need to be about 17.5mm not 40mm so you can make two out of one even better

DerbyDan wrote:Yes, I just thought that also... not sure how critical the 'tube' bit is - it must help keep it all square?

The 'tube' parts are what holds the front end together. If just the flat parts are made there is nothing to hold the top deck to the chassis and nothing to clamp the gearbox in place to keep the belt in tension.

This is how the end result should be.




This is how I wanted it as to make the front stronger and the tensioner system more affective as the screw is not lost in the soft plastic.

^^Looks good^^

Any idea who made the reds ones - is that on Luke's (Kaszal) car?

@ Terry SC - yes I figured that without the 'tube' part of the moulding on the machined section that you would still need to have the long screw passing all the way through from one side to the other - otherwise, like you say there would be no clamping force to hold the gearbox in place

I think the ones on Luke's were made by GPM

Peakey wrote:I think the ones on Luke's were made by GPM

GPM made a LOT of ProCat alloy parts..... including these parts (or similar). Although, from memory (not great to rely on), my posts were round, rather than hex....

I used to have heaps of alloy GPM ProCat parts..... all I have left now is a set of blue open and closed bearing housings

Alex