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While assembling the RC18T2/B2 kit, I ran into a ton of frustration trying to mount the wheels because the axle pins were so loose they would slip out of position every time I tried to mount the wheels. Either the pin would slide to one side and block the wheel from seating properly or it would fall completely out.

I came up with a low tech solution: pipe thread tape. I took some pipe thread tape, rolled it into a thread-like shape and put it through the hole before inserting the pin. It took up the slack but didn't make the hole too tight. That made it possible to keep the pins in position and seat the wheels firmly into position. Once the pin was in place, I trimmed off the excess tape/thread with an exacto knife.

thought all AE buggies were using roll pins for that very reason...

The rc10 wasn't a evolution of rc, it was a revolution. Did they forget everything when TT took over? Seems like they are going quite backwards. We're there any "no serviceable parts inside" stickers on that car?!

gomachv wrote:Did they forget everything when TT took over? Seems like they are going quite backwards. We're there any "no serviceable parts inside" stickers on that car?!

Who is TT? Since I'm an old noob (52, but just starting with RC cars for the first time) I don't know.

And no, there were no warnings about the 18t2/b2 kit and its issues. I have grown more adept at searching forums and now know some of the "known issues" with the kit (I'd figured out pretty much all of them on my own at that point, just not the solutions/workarounds).

I had taken apart the first car I bought, an old RC10T2 and become acquainted with roll pins, but didn't think about using those instead. Plus as new as I am to the hobby, I don't have lots of spare parts hanging on from old projects and I was too impatient to wait a week for ordering anything.

TT stands for Thunder Tiger, they bought out Team Associated.

Roll pins are good but they have a tendancy to break with decent power. The FT pins suffer the same "frustration" being a solid pin. I doubt a 1/18 will have enough beans to break a roll pin though.

I find a nail that fits the hole then take wire cutters to it, snip it down to the right size and then cut some more for spares. Easy cheap and fast fix if you do lose the pin.

lpddpd wrote:I find a nail that fits the hole then take wire cutters to it, snip it down to the right size and then cut some more for spares. Easy cheap and fast fix if you do lose the pin.

I'll definitely remember that so I'm not out of action for a week or more waiting on parts.

who hasn't cut a body clip in urgency to use as an axle pin to run to the starting line just-in-time anyway???

Paul

When I was younger and would lose a pin I would snip off pieces of coat hanger to use.

lil_general_lee wrote:TT stands for Thunder Tiger, they bought out Team Associated.

Roll pins are good but they have a tendancy to break with decent power. The FT pins suffer the same "frustration" being a solid pin. I doubt a 1/18 will have enough beans to break a roll pin though.

mabey not on the 18 2 series

but i have bent a few on my 18 mt with the shaft drive and my 9200kv motor also twisted a set of alum dogbones near in half

Shoe Goo !!!!

another trick is that they are roll pins so there is a slot down the side .. take a carpet knife and hamer and put the blade of the carpet knife into the slot and tap it down the length of pin to open it up a little .. snug fit after

integra22t wrote:another trick is that they are roll pins so there is a slot down the side .. take a carpet knife and hamer and put the blade of the carpet knife into the slot and tap it down the length of pin to open it up a little .. snug fit after

HELL NO !!!! DO YOU KNOW HOW MANY I HAVE HAD TO CUT OFF WITH THE DREMEL BECAUSE YOU CAN'T GET THEM OUT !!!!! Shoe Goo !!! It works !!! And allows you to pull the pin when you want to...

I remember cutting down small hex wrenches to make replacement axle pins myself, probably a bit tougher material then body pins.

Chris

I want to second the shoe goo option. I had an awesome little RC18B that would scream as I had the 26mm Castle motor in it running a 3S lipo. The thing was literally almost as fast as my RC10 running a 2S lipo and a 5700 motor.

I broke a ton of stuff on it though so I needed to upgrade the hubs, arms, steering and deck all to aluminum as well as MIP gear diffs front and back.