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My scope of this project was to make a runner out of a gold pan buggy. Parts availability being the main focus on the direction of parts that i am using. I chose to use B4 parts because they are cheep and readily available. It all started with buying front and rear arms, shocks carriers hubs for $25 shipped. Everything that i got was in good shape, and shocks were like bran new, and worth the $25 by themselves. The front was easy enough, cut, drill and bolt on, after making front bulkhead. The rear was a pain in the rear, took a lot of figuring how to get the arms in there with mounts. At one point i was almost cut the back end off the chassis and mount the b4 rear on . enjoy the pics, still have a lot of little things to finish up but it runs pretty good. I used a T3 transmission, thats what i had. Only problems i have is with rear travel, dimensionally is is exactly like the b4, i am not sure if i have too much droop in the rear that the cvd bottoms out against the stops in the out-drives before the chassis bottoms out.

I got the chassis off epay; 0.99 for the chassis and 0.99 for the nose because all the countersunk holes on the chassis had been enlarged, so cutting it up didn't seem so terrible, but still a little painful when i actually did it.

a couple more pics

Nice job! I have been waiting for someone to build something like this.

I think that a B4 built on a gold chassis was brought up quite while back, but I never saw any pictures of it done! Looks good. I kind of have an opposite idea going, its why i made a thread asking about a B4 chassis. I want to take an old cars suspension and trans and drop them onto a new cars tub.

losiXXXman wrote:I think that a B4 built on a gold chassis was brought up quite while back, but I never saw any pictures of it done! Looks good. I kind of have an opposite idea going, its why i made a thread asking about a B4 chassis. I want to take an old cars suspension and trans and drop them onto a new cars tub.

that would be interesting, would just need to custom make a rear motor plate to accommodate everything and for the front, that would be a little more tricky

thanks jwscab

very impressive build!!

tommykart wrote:...Only problems i have is with rear travel, dimensionally is is exactly like the b4, i am not sure if i have too much droop in the rear that the cvd bottoms out against the stops in the out-drives before the chassis bottoms out.

That's ambitious.

The droop limiters should be the shocks as opposed to anything else like the suspension arms or worse yet the cvd's. Looks like you have 1.32 body/1.32 shaft shocks on the rear? A 1.02 shaft might help, and/or a load of internal limiters, and/or a new shock tower, and/or different shock bodies, and or different shaft ends/bottom spring cups and/or any combination of the above. It would also be nice if when you push the chassis to the floor, the shocks are at or very near to fully compressed.

so maybe i have too much droop? I am not sure of how much droop a B4 has. I had to put 4 spacers on the cvd to move it in far enough so the axle was i in far enough on the out drives. Thanks for the input, back to the work bench.

tommykart wrote:...Only problems i have is with rear travel, dimensionally is is exactly like the b4, i am not sure if i have too much droop in the rear that the cvd bottoms out against the stops in the out-drives before the chassis bottoms out.

If you mean the cvd hits the inside of the drive cup before the shock bottoms out, then you definitely need shorter cvd shafts. Otherwise they will bend from slamming into the drive cups under heavy compression (landing after a jump) and cause further problems. If you have B4 cvd's then try associated B44 cva's, the drive shafts are a few mm shorter. Unfortunately you'll need to buy another whole set because the pivot/coupling is switched on the axle and shaft between cvd's and cva's.

You can also put limiters on the outside of the shocks to prevent this too, but up travel an handling may suffer.

does the trans sit too high and now there too much of a telescoping effect in the outdrive?

scr8p wrote:does the trans sit too high and now there too much of a telescoping effect in the outdrive?

that may be the solution since i already have 4 shims on the inside, to keep the axles in just far enough at full droop. Have been too busy lately to mess around in the shop.

well i guess i was over cautious about how much the axle should be in the out-drive. moved 3 of the washers to the outside and now have enough space for the axle to not bottom out and the chassis to touch the ground.

After looking at it more if the trans was any lower i might have had an issue with the axle hitting the end of the out drive