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Hey guys I have been a member here for a while and dont post a whole lot but enjoy restoring and collecting RC10s just the same. My qustion is how long should you wait to reassemble the whitened plastics on the chassis. The reason I ask is because on previous projects the anodize on the chassis under and around the plastic became lighter and faded looking.

glad you mentioned this, it is a problem I have had. Peroxided a bunch of RC10T parts, cleaned and dried them. Put them in a plastic container with the rest of the parts including the black anodised shock caps, checked them a month later only to see they were no raw silver! I will try to get a picture up.

I didn't know it would effect parts that were in open space?

it's probably a good idea to throw them in some water after they dry, I know it sounds weird, but you let the parts leach out water and peroxide by drying, then put them in water to allow fresh water to dilute what is in the nylon. I would say you could probably boil them up too, but it's probably good enough to let dry, then soak again overnight. Oh, I'd use a lot of water say like at last a gallon even just for a handful of parts.

it's the first I've heard of it, but I doesn't surprise me that peroxide leaches out slowly once you soak in it.

a little while back i whitened a 10t bulkhead for use on a worlds setup. 2 days later i bolted it to the chassis and attached the new white rpm worlds arms and old style white bumper. the next day, the rpm parts were greenish yellow. typical of what happens to those parts in peroxide. i tore the front end back apart and boiled all of the parts. the arms and bumper became white again, and i put it back together. next day, i had greenish yellow rpm parts again.

3 times i had to boil and cool those parts until the peroxide would stop weeping out of that damn bulkhead.

Dang, I haven't had that issue yet but I should probably start boiling my parts just to be safe.

Great info guys. I will give the boiling trick a shot. I have a worlds car coming and I want to make sure that I dont mess the ano up on that chassis.

scr8p wrote:a little while back i whitened a 10t bulkhead for use on a worlds setup. 2 days later i bolted it to the chassis and attached the new white rpm worlds arms and old style white bumper. the next day, the rpm parts were greenish yellow. typical of what happens to those parts in peroxide. i tore the front end back apart and boiled all of the parts. the arms and bumper became white again, and i put it back together. next day, i had greenish yellow rpm parts again.

3 times i had to boil and cool those parts until the peroxide would stop weeping out of that damn bulkhead.

Yes, great to know.

How long do you let the parts boil typically? And it should not affect the integrity of the part, correct?

scr8p wrote:a little while back i whitened a 10t bulkhead for use on a worlds setup. 2 days later i bolted it to the chassis and attached the new white rpm worlds arms and old style white bumper. the next day, the rpm parts were greenish yellow. typical of what happens to those parts in peroxide. i tore the front end back apart and boiled all of the parts. the arms and bumper became white again, and i put it back together. next day, i had greenish yellow rpm parts again.

3 times i had to boil and cool those parts until the peroxide would stop weeping out of that damn bulkhead.

Told ya-

Shock the parts in ice water after boiling too- helps express any chemicals in the plastics out

When dying I boil for around 5-10 minutes. Boiling was recommended to me when I first started in rc because it made the nylon more flexible. Not sure if its true but I've never had any issue with a dyed part that wouldn't have been a failure on a stock part.

I LET MINE SIT ONE MONTH BEFORE ASSEMBLY AFTER PEROXIDE TREATMENT NO DAME TO CHASSIS YET.DON

One month?! What do you do while you wait?!!! Lol!

Just out of curiosity, what is the process for using peroxide? Just soak? If so, how long?

I have a set of parts in peroxide right now actually. I just lay down foil into a Rubbermaid container, pour in a bottle of peroxide (enough to cover parts) and drop in the parts. Let sit in the sunlight stirring once in a while unt you reach the whiteness you desire. With Oregon sunshine it takes a few days or more to see a change. I haven't bought a UVB light yet. I bring in my parts at night and cover the container keeping it dark until morning when I put them back out

Does the process require UV light, or can you get similar results just soaking indoors?

Not much UV to be found in Portland in February!

I have been setting mine out daily. Got a few rays today. A reptile bulb (UVB ultraviolet "b") has been recommended but I'm too cheap to buy one