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As it came to me from eBay: As it is now:
Wasn't in all that bad a shape really. The rear tank guard was pretty bent up, but the main roll cage, side bars, and bottom only had light scratches. Anodizing was worn in spots but was also very thin and sanded off quick and easy. I'll eventually get it re-done. There are a few extra 4-40 size holes drilled in the bottom, and the servo mounting holes are in the wrong place but I'll use them to mount the header pipes.

It's now the new home of my all-metal Thorp/Jammin' Jay 6-gear, and almost all the parts from my original RC10. Used a set of WSS aluminum knuckles and aluminum front bulkhead I picked up in another lot, as well as some Sassy Chassis bellcranks. Finally made some new (shorter) wing mounts up top out of the beat up nose tubes that came with the car.

An offset nose plate is on it's way from eBay, and I'm considering doing a mono-shock up front when it comes. Still need a body (considering the AE sprint repro from TBG), better condition ball cups, one Tecnacraft turnbuckle up front, and of course wheels. I have some NIP T&A's I can use but I don't like the look of thin front wheels on a sprinter.


I actually considered for a minute doing a WOIN sprinter, using a 10T nose and my set of bigjeepz arms. If I ever move somewhere that has a DO track I might do that...then maybe I'll also convert it to a GT sprinter.

Wow! that looks great! Good job!

Well that cleaned up nicely. Just me but i'd have to throw some polish at that aluminum

Thanks both.

Definitely got some more work to do on the aluminum but, as I mentioned, the plan is to get it re-ano'd back to the Edinger-like gold color that RBS used on these kits. When I'm ready for that I'll tear it down, get the holes filled, and strip the shocks/motorplate so they can be re-ano'd to match.

make sure if you get the holes filled you use an alloy that will anodize like the parent material. Some filler alloys will only anodize to a black color. Also realize that the fill will remove the temper in that area, and will be softer.

it wouldn't be all that hard to make a new chassis, if you have or know someone with a break.

scr8p wrote:it wouldn't be all that hard to make a new chassis, if you have or know someone with a break.

Heheh. The holes aren't that serious even if I leave them alone. Bending a new chassis, or even cutting one out of CF/G10 to me borders on "should've just scratch built a sprinter."

I've been wanting to do a scratch built sprinter out of piano wire for some time now...but not out of an RC10. I saw the RBS sprinter on the eBay and wanted it as some place to hold the parts from my first RC10. I had them on an oval chassis but I thought of a better project for that chassis.

How did you get the plastic so white? I have heard using hydrogen peroxide but what is best other than finding nip parts.

H2O2 will get nylon looking white, but to get them their whitest use Photoshop.

BME offset front nose came today. Will strip/sand the ano off this weekend.

Standard two front shocks, or MIP style mono-shock? If I go mono I got plenty of junk towers to cut the fiberglass bits out of. Two-shocks I'll need to buy G10 or get a tower made.

So this hacked-up chassis: ...is now this shock tower:
Thought it was too much metal on metal with the tower and aluminum front mounts so went back to nylon.

Got a body on the way from TBG, but then there will be a long pause while I figure out what I want to do for wheels.

I'm a sucker for sprint cars this thing is sweet can't wait to see it done...

Thanks. It's got aluminum wheels now but no tires yet. Also the body I tried out didn't work out.

http://www.mcallisterracing.com/

has some bodies that might fit

looks good

Are you going foam or rubber? If foam, what diameter rim?